Cam Project Final Write-Up
Road Warrior
Joined: Feb 2010
Posts: 1,534
Likes: 10
Spacer selection is straight forward. What I don't have in my pictures is a photo of a feeler gauge. If you don't have one, take a ride down to the auto parts store and you can get one for three bucks. This is picture of a feeler gauge with all the feelers fanned out. You probably have one, or have seen one in the auto parts store.
Select the .010 feeler and slide it under the straight edge as positioned in my pictures. If the feeler gauge fills the entire gap between the straight edge then you need a spacer that is .010 thicker. If there is a gap, then you use the .020 feeler. Keep measuring until there is no gap. The feeler should have just a little bit of friction when you slide it under the straight edge so know you have contact between the sprocket and straight edge.
Look at your original spacer. It should have the spacer thickness stamped on it. Based on your measurements the additional thickness is what you need to add. For example, if you have a .110 original spacer and you had a .010 gap, then you add the two numbers. You need a .120 spacer. In the event you can't read the spacer size, bring the original to the dealer with you. The service department can measure the spacer thickness with a micrometer.
Select the .010 feeler and slide it under the straight edge as positioned in my pictures. If the feeler gauge fills the entire gap between the straight edge then you need a spacer that is .010 thicker. If there is a gap, then you use the .020 feeler. Keep measuring until there is no gap. The feeler should have just a little bit of friction when you slide it under the straight edge so know you have contact between the sprocket and straight edge.
Look at your original spacer. It should have the spacer thickness stamped on it. Based on your measurements the additional thickness is what you need to add. For example, if you have a .110 original spacer and you had a .010 gap, then you add the two numbers. You need a .120 spacer. In the event you can't read the spacer size, bring the original to the dealer with you. The service department can measure the spacer thickness with a micrometer.
Outstanding HDF Member
Joined: Aug 2009
Posts: 2,858
Likes: 217
From: Puyallup Wa.
Push rod covers really are not to bad of a deal. What I did was take a screw driver and put heat shrink on the shaft. I just pry down the spring cap and remove spring cap retainer. The next time or when I do the 107 install I have just bought colony push rod covers I think they will be much easier all around to work with and adjust push rods.
Road Warrior
Joined: Feb 2010
Posts: 1,534
Likes: 10
I was casually watching this thread over the holidays and forgot about it. I just did the same project and had mostly the same experiences. I opted to remove the rocker box covers and the rocker support plate and use the original pushrods. Don't know why, just not sure I trusted the adjustables. Maybe just wanted to experience more motor. {shrug} Anything it is just as easy. Just more wrenching.
The one thing I wish I had done was not order the cam service kit. It was easy to just order it but I threw out a ton of stuff I didn't need.
I used some oil pump/tappet alignment screws I had from an old 01 Dyna oil pump alignment problem/project. Gave me a little more confidence in the oil pump alignment. Still have a bad tast in my mouth from that one!!!
http://groups.google.com/group/rec.m...isting+blow-by
+1 on the exhaust being a PITFA!!! Lots of four letter words.
Otherwise done in about the same amount of time.
Great write up. Those of you on the fence....you can do this, it is not that hard. If you know basic engine theory and have some mechanical sense....Good easy project.
F
The one thing I wish I had done was not order the cam service kit. It was easy to just order it but I threw out a ton of stuff I didn't need.
I used some oil pump/tappet alignment screws I had from an old 01 Dyna oil pump alignment problem/project. Gave me a little more confidence in the oil pump alignment. Still have a bad tast in my mouth from that one!!!
http://groups.google.com/group/rec.m...isting+blow-by
+1 on the exhaust being a PITFA!!! Lots of four letter words.
Otherwise done in about the same amount of time.
Great write up. Those of you on the fence....you can do this, it is not that hard. If you know basic engine theory and have some mechanical sense....Good easy project.
F
Thanks
Elite HDF Member
Joined: Jun 2007
Posts: 3,873
Likes: 13
From: NW Arkansas
No. I didn't. You have to be careful when you pull the cams out or it will come with it. Mine slid out just a tiny bit, but I did not remove it. Did the alignment procedure anyway when I put it back together.
Thread Starter
|
Road Warrior
Joined: Mar 2007
Posts: 1,377
Likes: 8
From: Atlanta, GA
Removing the oil pump gives you more room to replace the inner cam bearings. Also, it is a good opportunity to change the o-ring behind it. The oil pump pulls right out and pushes right back in. Nothing complicated about it.
Cruiser
Joined: Sep 2008
Posts: 113
Likes: 0
From: Reno NV
HD Forum Stories
The Best of Harley-Davidson for Lifelong Riders
10 Worst Harley-Davidson Motorcycles Ever
Pouria Savadkouei
Killer Custom's Jail Break Is The Breakout That Refused to Blend In
Verdad Gallardo
Crazy Bunderbike Build Looks Amazing, But Is It Impossible to Ride?
Verdad Gallardo
Harley-Davidson Reveals Super Cool Cafe Racer Concept
Verdad Gallardo
Engraved Rebellion: Inside Bundnerbike's Glam Rock II
Verdad Gallardo
10 Motorcycles You Should Never Buy
Joe Kucinski
10 Things Harley-Davidson Needs to Fix in 2026
Verdad Gallardo
Southpaw Super Glide: A Left-Hand-Drive 1979 Harley FXE Built to Fit the Rider
Verdad Gallardo
The Best and Worst Harley-Davidson Moves of 2025
Verdad Gallardo
Thread Starter
|
Road Warrior
Joined: Mar 2007
Posts: 1,377
Likes: 8
From: Atlanta, GA
Similar, but not the same. You have a different cam plate, tensioners, and you will need a press to remove and install the cams from the cam plate. I recommend some research on a retrofit cam plate that has hydraulic tensioners and the ability to accept drop in cams (no press). Others here on the forum might be able to elaborate. My knowledge is limited to the 96 motor.
