When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
What about weight of the Redline? I can't find a recommendation in my service manual uless I am not looking in the right place and I see they offer 3 different weights.
....I just wonder how it comes out when you drain it to change oil
It comes out a bit slow, just like you would expect 90wt to drain. No, not all the oil is replaced with a change due to its superior cling capability, which s considered a quality, especially in reference to tranny oil that you want lubed even with the first turn of the gears.
...and do particles stay stuck to it on the gears?.
Well no. Since the oil is constantly "rinsing" the gears from running through it and getting splashed or slung onto them, the particulates sink and are found at the bottom of the tranny, and is first to get drained.
Hope this helps,
Bob
PS - Since the tranny doesn't suck air into it like the engine, the gearbox and gears are kept much cleaner than engine oil, which is why with regular 90wt, you can see the oil looks like new, even after 10,000 miles.
What about weight of the Redline? I can't find a recommendation in my service manual unless I am not looking in the right place and I see they offer 3 different weights.
Just buy and install Shockprook Heavy (pink) or V-twin Transmission oil (the same with different label) as members here will attest, is a no-brainer.
Lots of years using it without anything negative. Also makes for discerning difference between tranny leak and primary leak due to color differences.
Bob
Just buy and install Shockprook Heavy (pink) or V-twin Transmission oil (the same with different label) as members here will attest, is a no-brainer.
Lots of years using it without anything negative. Also makes for discerning difference between tranny leak and primary leak due to color differences.
Bob
Good point! I had an indy tell me it's very easy to tell what's leaking by the color...Good info here guy's. I love these weekly oil threads...plus we must remember, theres new people joining the forum and some are new bike owner's.
I am one of those newbies, also new to HD. I have ridden metric sport bikes for most of my life, so reading the comments on the oil are good for me since I am now on a touring bike. There is a difference on what you put in the engine when you are knee dragging compared to riding it on down the road, so I am learning left and right in here.
So far I have learned to use Amsoil, then I learned that Redline was better and possibly Dextron in the primary. All of this with less than 1,000 miles, of my riding, on the bike. The bike came with 27,000, so I still have a couple thousand before I have to "know" what I am going to put in there. Like Noz said earlier, it is confusing, but we're trying to keep up and I know we appreciate the information being shared.
7 Surprising Harley-Davidson Products that Are Not Motorcycles
Slideshow: The bar-and-shield logo shows up on far more than motorcycles, some of the company's most unexpected products have nothing to do with riding.
Slideshow: From the troubled AMF years to modern misfires, these bikes earned reputations for reliability issues, questionable engineering, or disappointing performance.
Crazy Bunderbike Build Looks Amazing, But Is It Impossible to Ride?
Slideshow: The Swiss custom shop has taken a Harley Softail and stretched it into something so long and low that it looks closer to a rolling sculpture than a conventional motorcycle.
Engraved Rebellion: Inside Bundnerbike's Glam Rock II
Slideshow: A standard cruiser becomes an intricate metal canvas in the hands of a Swiss custom house known for pushing Harley-Davidson platforms far beyond their factory brief.
Slideshow: Harley-Davidson's challenges aren't abstract; they show up in dropping shipments, shrinking dealer traffic, and strategic decisions that aren't yet translating into growth.