Poor running

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Mar 4, 2010 | 12:01 AM

#11

BLKBAGGER

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From: El Cajon Ca.

Quote:

Originally Posted by twistedcherokee

I readusted the pushrods, Swapped plugs, checked compression and all checked out fine. I then sprayed brake clean into the throttle body, on one side it made no difference, on the other side it would cause the engine to die with just a short burst. I then pulled the connector off of the injector on the rear cyl. & restarted the engine. When I resprayed into the rear portion of the throttle body, the engine smoothed out. I put a noid light on the connector & it was working fine. In conclusion, the rear cyl injector is dumping to much fuel fowling out the cyl & when it was unplugged & I added a fuel it smoothed out. Now I did have an odd thing happen to it. I was driving it down the road when the radio & just the speedo light went out & a short time after that the engine died (aprox. 2-5 min). Pulled off to the side of the road & pulled the seat off, It was dark out so I just felt for some loose wires under the seat & as the wires go into the fairing. Found nothing loose, turned the key on and all was ok, the bike started & has ran since, then the injector acted up. Thanks for the help & replies.

Toby

Just a little warning on using Brake cleaner. If it is the chlorinated type you can kill yourself by spraying it in the combustion chamber and then inhaling the exhaust fumes. I always buy the non chlorinated type just to be on the safe side. If you do a little search on it's use you might be surprised.

Mar 4, 2010 | 11:20 PM

#12

twistedcherokee

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It's the non chlorinated that I use. Thanks for the warning.

Toby

Mar 16, 2010 | 12:23 AM

#13

twistedcherokee

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Got the injectors & got them in tonight. Cross threaded the dang fuel line, thought I was screwed, but my boss had a 14mmx1.50 thread chaser so all is well. Think I may have fouled out the plug, it took a while for the rear cylinder to run smooth, but it is better. Going to swap the front & rear plugs tomorrow & go for a ride during lunch. Hope all is well, then I can start riding back & forth to work again.

Toby

Mar 21, 2010 | 06:58 PM

#14

twistedcherokee

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Got the new injectors in, still runs poor but better, the rear cyl is at least firing. I think what ever took out the injector is still there. Checked the connectors, found the ECM fuse loose & dirty. Cleaned & tightened it, everything else looked good & tight. Since it's a 99, I think the only thing that controls the fuel injection is the ECM which gets its info from the Engine Temp Sensor, Air Intake Temp Sensor & the MAP Sensor (Barometric Pressure Sensor). Since the shop manual doesn't have the spec's for them & I don't have a scanner that reads data streams for it, I think I will replace one at a time (except the ECM) still would be cheaper than taking it to a shop. Unless someone has a better thought,I think I will start with the ETS & then go to the AITS. Thanks

Toby

Mar 23, 2010 | 02:30 AM

#15

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From:

Have you removed the PLUG CONNECTION to ECM and looked at connections..IF it is an out door parked bike or has been washed with pressure washer the connections get nasty sometimes.

Mar 23, 2010 | 02:31 AM

#16

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Do you have a fuel device like a power commander or similar...remove it and check.

Mar 23, 2010 | 07:59 PM

#17

twistedcherokee

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Garaged but has seen a lot of rain, but have checked connectors. Found the fuse for the ECM loose & one of the pins for the cruise control module loose, tightened those. All connectors are real clean, no corrosion. There is also the TPS but that I can measure & make sure it is ok. Thanks for the input.

Toby

Mar 27, 2010 | 08:11 PM

#18

twistedcherokee

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Got the Engine Temp Sensor in today & installed it. Harley runs great now. Think I am going to replace the MAP & Air Temp Sensor also as a preventative measure, since they have 75000 miles on them & 11 years old. Got about 40 miles in today.

Toby