Progressive 940's
I'm glad to hear that it is relatively quick to make the change, actually not much longer than it does now with the stock air ride when add and remove pressure for solo and 2 up. I see some progressive 940s in my future.
Thank you vtwin1340
If this can be explained to me, I would seriously consider them.
BTW: What is the travel of a regular 13" shock.
Any help is appreciated
Thanks
My only comparison is to the stock 12" air shocks.
My setting is 1/2 turn from the lightest and that feels just a bit firm to me riding solo at 200 pounds. Add the wife at 125 and it is real nice. Have not bottomed either way yet. The rebound dampening is awesome and smooth. Not the harsh jolt like stock.
The coolest part for me is knowing the handling is going to be the same every time I ride.
First off, it's important to understand that down travel (droop) is as important as up travel (bump). The world is full of holes as well as bumps and the better your suspension is the more likely your chassis will stay smooth as your suspension deals with these road "imperfections".
The shock uses a compensation spring or what the off-road race guys call a "zero spring". It's a flatwire spring that compresses under the weight of the bike and lets the shock ride at 12", yet allows it to extend to the full 13" on droop. A good example of this style of suspension is off road race trucks, ever seen one rip through a set of woops? The suspension droops down and prepares the vehicle for the next hit, while the chassis remains level. On a smaller scale, the 940 Series shocks do the same for your bike and that extra inch of down travel (droop) is a substantial amount of the 4 or so inches of total travel these bikes are limited to. We don't recommend you huck your bagger off of a jump, but the next time you cross over a pothole and the rear wheel drops in (without taking the chassis with it), then absorbs the hit on the other side, you'll appreciate the technology.
Am I to understand that the 940 is a 13" shock for holes and a 12" shock for bumps?
Please bear with me as I do not understand suspension but want to spend my money wisely, I only want to buy 1 set of shocks.
Thanks
The only purpose of the spring in rear shocks is to hold the bike up. The more weight you add the stronger the spring has to be, or the more pre-load has to be added using it. The optimum is that as you are about to ride away the shock should have settled to about a third its total movement. That leaves you two-thirds to absorb thumps and a third to deal with holes.
Now Progressive may have good reasons for using two springs as they describe, but it doesn't make sense to me! I have recently fitted Ohlins, supplied by HDF sponsor Motorcycle Metal, and only yesterday got back from a 2,500 mile tour of France, Belgium, Czech and Slovak Republics and Poland. That has been a pretty severe test of them!
We have ridden minor roads in all those countries and hit every trap set for the unwary rider, unguarded rail crossings and potholes, and our shocks have been brilliant. They have one spring each, well set damping and never bottomed out, despite our total rolling weight (bike plus luggage and us two) being around 1200 pounds.
I had already used another brand shock, which was slightly better than stock, but spent many months reading the suspension threads here. One thing struck me which is that some HDFers have tried several different shocks and settled on very few that actually solved the problems of riding comfortably two up. I took the short cut to Howard of MM and Ohlins.
Your ambition to spend wisely is itself very wise! But there are a lot of suspension makers out there after your bucks, a lot of owners who are happy with them, also a few who have spent lots of bucks trying around. There is a risk you will find yourself following in their footsteps. Or you can try the bold move I took and go straight to the top! Could be cheaper in the long-run.
Last edited by grbrown; May 22, 2010 at 06:17 AM. Reason: Spelling
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