Ergo Up, reference pics
Thread Starter
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Tourer
Joined: Jun 2009
Posts: 411
Likes: 6
From: Portland, OR metro area
Ergo Up, reference pics
I finally got some Klock Werks Ergo Up bars installed. When I was contemplating their purchase, I had always heard that they offer a more relaxed wrist position, but since that is not a standard bar measurement, I didn’t really know what that really meant. The purpose of this post is to try to help/show others out there who may also wonder about that.
Feel free to skip the discussion if you want (and just jump to the pics), however for some I thought that a thought “framework” may be useful.
My bar replacement priorities were:
1. Relax the wrist position (“tingling” or loss of circulation to finger tips after a while)
2. Raise the bars, (shoulder/neck strain after about 150 miles) but keep my hands below the fairing height
3. Bring them back a bit (~ ˝ “) just for comfort
Based on these things, I chose the Ergo Ups, hearing that they’d generally meet the relaxed and up (about 2”) and I assumed that I could just orient them back as desired – so far that’s worked out.
I concluded based on relative measurements (but with some “eyeballing” as well) that the stock bars on my Ultra had a wrist compression of about 3 ˝” over the useable length of the grip. I’m refraining from using the term “pull back” as that is a standard measurement that means something else. The first picture, with the red marks on my square shows how I measured – front of each end of the grip to the fairing reference.
The second picture is for reference of how I made the measurements from a different angle, and also shows my base line for height measurement – the mark on the painters tape that then lines up to the hole in the vertical of the square.
The third picture compares the Ergo Up (closest to wall) with the stock bars (front). Sorry no measurements here, I just couldn’t balance that much stuff.
The fourth picture shows the Ergo Ups installed. The red marks (stock) are still there for reference, and the black marks show the relative position of the bars/grips. You can see that I pulled the bars back ˝” as desired. My take is that the Ergo Ups’ wrist compression is about 1” over the useable length of the grip, so “relaxing my grip” by about 2 ˝” as compared to stock. On the vertical scale, you’ll see that they raised the bar position about 1 ˝” from the stock position – I knowingly sacrificed some height to get the ˝” pull back.
On the pictures, if someone can make them appear in the post rather than as thumbnails, it may be easier for others; I just don’t know how to do that…Thanks.
FWIW, I did not need to change any cables. Throttle and brake were fine as they were (re-shaped the brake line carefully a bit). The clutch cable may have been OK through the fairing, but I was more comfortable re-routing it as a precautionary measure, but it’s still stock length. It’s now routed below the radio (similar to the brake line on the other side).
I can’t provide a ride report yet – I still need to make some final tweaks and tightening then put the fairing back on, but I thought I’d send this info out in advance of that. I intend to get a few hundred miles in this weekend if the weather isn’t too terrible, and will follow up with those who may subscribe.
Finally (for now), if you like these bars, I suggest you be very patient. Based on my experience, it seems to me like the MO for the vendor is to not to have anything in stock (to any of their distributors as well), then they order some from the manufacturer to fill most back orders, then they’re NIS (not in stock) again for several months. This makes for a 3-4 month desire-to-delivery timeframe.
Feel free to skip the discussion if you want (and just jump to the pics), however for some I thought that a thought “framework” may be useful.
My bar replacement priorities were:
1. Relax the wrist position (“tingling” or loss of circulation to finger tips after a while)
2. Raise the bars, (shoulder/neck strain after about 150 miles) but keep my hands below the fairing height
3. Bring them back a bit (~ ˝ “) just for comfort
Based on these things, I chose the Ergo Ups, hearing that they’d generally meet the relaxed and up (about 2”) and I assumed that I could just orient them back as desired – so far that’s worked out.
I concluded based on relative measurements (but with some “eyeballing” as well) that the stock bars on my Ultra had a wrist compression of about 3 ˝” over the useable length of the grip. I’m refraining from using the term “pull back” as that is a standard measurement that means something else. The first picture, with the red marks on my square shows how I measured – front of each end of the grip to the fairing reference.
The second picture is for reference of how I made the measurements from a different angle, and also shows my base line for height measurement – the mark on the painters tape that then lines up to the hole in the vertical of the square.
The third picture compares the Ergo Up (closest to wall) with the stock bars (front). Sorry no measurements here, I just couldn’t balance that much stuff.
The fourth picture shows the Ergo Ups installed. The red marks (stock) are still there for reference, and the black marks show the relative position of the bars/grips. You can see that I pulled the bars back ˝” as desired. My take is that the Ergo Ups’ wrist compression is about 1” over the useable length of the grip, so “relaxing my grip” by about 2 ˝” as compared to stock. On the vertical scale, you’ll see that they raised the bar position about 1 ˝” from the stock position – I knowingly sacrificed some height to get the ˝” pull back.
On the pictures, if someone can make them appear in the post rather than as thumbnails, it may be easier for others; I just don’t know how to do that…Thanks.
FWIW, I did not need to change any cables. Throttle and brake were fine as they were (re-shaped the brake line carefully a bit). The clutch cable may have been OK through the fairing, but I was more comfortable re-routing it as a precautionary measure, but it’s still stock length. It’s now routed below the radio (similar to the brake line on the other side).
I can’t provide a ride report yet – I still need to make some final tweaks and tightening then put the fairing back on, but I thought I’d send this info out in advance of that. I intend to get a few hundred miles in this weekend if the weather isn’t too terrible, and will follow up with those who may subscribe.
Finally (for now), if you like these bars, I suggest you be very patient. Based on my experience, it seems to me like the MO for the vendor is to not to have anything in stock (to any of their distributors as well), then they order some from the manufacturer to fill most back orders, then they’re NIS (not in stock) again for several months. This makes for a 3-4 month desire-to-delivery timeframe.
Thread Starter
|
Tourer
Joined: Jun 2009
Posts: 411
Likes: 6
From: Portland, OR metro area
Ride report: Not for me
Well Hawgnoggin,
Got back from Reno Sunday evening, so I’ve got about 1,700 miles or so on my new bars. As much as I want to like these bars, and as good as they feel in the garage, they don’t seem to have helped my discomfort – actually they seem to have exacerbated the situation. After 3 days and about 1K miles, I couldn’t even lift my right arm high enough to play the slots! I learned on the ride back that if I took enough motrin, I could get by.
I know some love them, but I don’t. I’m thinking about some Cyclesmith 13” mini-apes as a winter project, but the thought of a couple hundred for the bars and a few hundred for the cables, for another unknown outcome is a bit disconcerting.
FWIW, I’m 6’0, 195 lbs, ‘normal’ build, Mustang Regal seat.
Got back from Reno Sunday evening, so I’ve got about 1,700 miles or so on my new bars. As much as I want to like these bars, and as good as they feel in the garage, they don’t seem to have helped my discomfort – actually they seem to have exacerbated the situation. After 3 days and about 1K miles, I couldn’t even lift my right arm high enough to play the slots! I learned on the ride back that if I took enough motrin, I could get by.
I know some love them, but I don’t. I’m thinking about some Cyclesmith 13” mini-apes as a winter project, but the thought of a couple hundred for the bars and a few hundred for the cables, for another unknown outcome is a bit disconcerting.
FWIW, I’m 6’0, 195 lbs, ‘normal’ build, Mustang Regal seat.
Cruiser
Joined: Mar 2009
Posts: 158
Likes: 0
From: Austin, TX
Thanks for posting your results. Sorry to hear it didn't work for you. That sucks. Nothing more frustrating than being uncomfortable on your bike.
I have the same issue. Stockers not working on my flhx. Tried some Sweepers. Better, but still not right. The search continues. I did see some posts here a while back re: some bars that are very adjustable. Height, pull back, wrist angle, etc. Looked decent as well. But they wanted $800 I think. Too pricey for me.
Good luck on your next try. I too want try some mini-apes, but am wincing at the cable cost/work. I will probably bite the bullet and try it soon though.
I have the same issue. Stockers not working on my flhx. Tried some Sweepers. Better, but still not right. The search continues. I did see some posts here a while back re: some bars that are very adjustable. Height, pull back, wrist angle, etc. Looked decent as well. But they wanted $800 I think. Too pricey for me.
Good luck on your next try. I too want try some mini-apes, but am wincing at the cable cost/work. I will probably bite the bullet and try it soon though.
Road Master
Joined: Dec 2009
Posts: 1,091
Likes: 1
From: new jersey
i'm currently researching a bar swap as a winter mod. I'm only 5'7" but i really feel like i want the bars higher...and i would imagine a straighter wrist angle would be nice....
My strongest search criteria is to get my hand higher but NOT over the fairing. Too cold around here in the winter, i ride down to about 40 degress (don't like the possibility of ice)
Anyway... i've looked at Wild1, Paul Yaffee, and others.... i actually came across bars by Santee...available through Custom CHrome..they offer an 11" bagger ape that is 1.25" diameter...and set up for internal wiring..cost is only $100... might be worth a look
My strongest search criteria is to get my hand higher but NOT over the fairing. Too cold around here in the winter, i ride down to about 40 degress (don't like the possibility of ice)
Anyway... i've looked at Wild1, Paul Yaffee, and others.... i actually came across bars by Santee...available through Custom CHrome..they offer an 11" bagger ape that is 1.25" diameter...and set up for internal wiring..cost is only $100... might be worth a look
Road Warrior
Joined: Jun 2009
Posts: 1,512
Likes: 452
From: Canada
I went Ergo Back, and in Black.
They are a TOTALLY different hand position. I'm 5'8" and arms to match, these are much more comfortable.
I installed them myself. With the help of my sweet patient woman. She kept me company for the install, and held the fairing for 15 minutes while I ensured the bolts were tight and the alignment was right...
I basically took off the fairing of my Street Glide, as the radio was being a PITA. The beauty of these is the controls work at STOCK LENGTH, no solder extravaganza, nor clutch and brake line extensions...
I'll say this, when taking the bars to full lock, it is a bit of a reach, but hey, not too bad. As well I lost my fairing mirrors, and installed some on the usual positions - Brake and Clutch Levers.
The delay for these bars was supposed to be due to the supply of the steel. Brian Klock was keeping things US Steel, so thats a good thing right? I emailed offering Canadian Steel as a solution, but no interest there...
The Black is pretty awesome, and prevented me from chroming my switch housings...
They are a TOTALLY different hand position. I'm 5'8" and arms to match, these are much more comfortable.
I installed them myself. With the help of my sweet patient woman. She kept me company for the install, and held the fairing for 15 minutes while I ensured the bolts were tight and the alignment was right...
I basically took off the fairing of my Street Glide, as the radio was being a PITA. The beauty of these is the controls work at STOCK LENGTH, no solder extravaganza, nor clutch and brake line extensions...
I'll say this, when taking the bars to full lock, it is a bit of a reach, but hey, not too bad. As well I lost my fairing mirrors, and installed some on the usual positions - Brake and Clutch Levers.
The delay for these bars was supposed to be due to the supply of the steel. Brian Klock was keeping things US Steel, so thats a good thing right? I emailed offering Canadian Steel as a solution, but no interest there...
The Black is pretty awesome, and prevented me from chroming my switch housings...
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Road Warrior
Joined: Aug 2008
Posts: 1,895
Likes: 121
From: Southern WV
I know everybody says "not above the fairing" but the WO 577s are very comfortable for me at 6' 190#. The Clarks Custom windshield helps a lot with the wind when the bars are over the fairing. Installed them myself and spent less that $450 total thru Dr V-Twin.
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