Been following this SE Compensator topic and figure one way or another I'm getting one this winter.

Funnily enough before this ever came up I was complaining to my dealer about a knocking noise in idle which the tech thought was in the transmission - and normal?!?!

Regardless, are there knocking noises associated with the compensator failure in idle?

 

I don't see how a bike at idle would involve the transmission or compensator. My 2010 Limited has valve train rattle but no knocks. Typical symptoms of weak compensator are: loud bang starting, difficult downshifting to 1st or 2nd gear, difficulty in finding neutral, chatter from primary(weak comp. springs)under load in 1st gear(like when you are loading the bike onto a trailer and start up the loading ramp). This has been my experience. Perhaps others will chime in with their opinion.

 

Well - it's all in motion when idling. There's just no torque being applied to the back wheel.

 

Want to follow.

I repeatedly keep reading about others with some idle knock I know my 2010 SG has same symptom NOT all the time. Um hard to get into first I have that problem a little bit.

 

I believe Im having the same issue. It just started after my PCV but maybe unrelated. Will the dealer warranty this if its bad ?

 

Do not let the Primary noise lead you to belive Compensator problem:

Most comon is the Stator and Starter Clutch...

Real easy to check: pull Primary - if you will see metal - gear teeth looking bad
this is from Starter Clutch and Stator Gear...all behind the clutch
pack, but you can see it

Bike will be 50% of the time hard to start.. make sure you have battery Tender

I have 20k plus...Under warranty...FREE just had my Stator and Starter Clutch done

Call Ryan: http://www.faultlinehd.com/service_form.asp

They measered the Compensator and it was perfect, they are not seeing Compensator issues....

Note: I have the Full Screamin' EagleŽ Performance Clutch Kit ...not sure if this helped the compensator issue that some of you may have had...but does not hurt...

Also: Remember...Auto Adjust for the chain in the primary..for about 500 miles the chain will slop around in there....until it self just backs to standard settings....

Call Ryan he set me right on this issue.....


Screamin' EagleŽ Performance Clutch Kit

Kit increases capacity of the '98-later clutch design by over 28% to 125 lb.-ft. of torque at the crank. Includes new long life friction discs, steel plates, and 10% higher-pressure diaphragm spring. Clutch Spring P/N 37951-98 is also sold separately to assist in increasing capacity of stock clutch.

 

Does the clutch kit change the amount of lever pull at all?

 

Call me over kill its ok.. But I have changed my primary oil 3 times in 6k miles if gear teeth looking bad wouldn't I see metal debris in the oil?. My thoughts to date have been this oil looks better than my EVO oil ever did. Yes the Evo I had since new for 11 years and lots of oil changes.

 

YES....the lever pull is about 20% stuffer....

My GF can not pull it in...she does work out...so...not sure what to tell ya...

Race Maico in the 70's and CRF45R now I am used to a stuff clutch..

I squeez a Racket Ball everyday I am stuck in a cage.....

Just a FYI;

Stretch your forearms before you ride. Stretching should always be part of your motocross fitness regime anyway but it helps to pay special attention to the parts of your body that will be doing the most work.

Sit on your bike and put your hands in front of you like you're stopping traffic. Have your hands below the level of your handlebars and put the tips of your fingers against your grips. Now press against the grips, you'll feel the muscles in the underside of your forearms stretch.

- Don't wear tight gloves. Make sure the wristbands of your gloves aren't too tight, the same goes for the cuffs of your riding jersey. Any tight fitting gear around your wrists will restrict blood flow.
- Control set-up. Make sure your controls are set up properly. The standard is to have your brake and clutch lever in line with your forearms when you're in the attack position. Having them in the wrong spot can make them hard to reach and mess your body positioning up.

- Exercise your forearms. Hold a squeeze ball or a piece of soft foam and clench your hand and then release. Do this until your forearm starts to ache then swap hands. Something I found that really helped me with forearm pump was using a boxing speedball. I put one up in my shed and would exercise on it for about 10-15 minutes most days. It also helps with upper body strength, endurance and general motocross fitness.

- Get your blood flowing. Before you ride go for a short brisk walk or some other type of activity to get your blood flowing. If it's a cool day be sure to keep yourself warm.

- Try using smaller diameter handgrips. I use Renthal Medium Full Diamond grips. Because they don't have a waffle pattern they are easier to get your hands around particularly when you've got short fingers like me!

Forearm pump is a problem suffered even by the pro riders and while regular motocross training helps you will probably always suffer some degree of it. Always try to ride smoothly and pick good lines, the problem gets much worse when you're tense and making mistakes. If you can, ride as much as possible, time on the bike helps with both arm pump and motocross fitness.