Vibration mystery...Solved! (?)

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Sep 28, 2010 | 08:47 AM

#31

Quadancer

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From: Acworth Georgia

As for finding that hot neutral, you might peruse the tranny oil threads. I did and despite running Amsoil Extreme, I may be going for the Bel Ray or Red line myself. The Amsoil is okay otherwise though, and I do have a homemade cooler working for me.

Sep 28, 2010 | 02:16 PM

#32

Oldtigercub

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Quote:

Originally Posted by IndyClassic

Good for you.......very thorough and you can feel confident that it is sound.

You said red loctite, not blue. Did the manual call out for the super-duty red for those bolts? Wherever you have the red the bolts would shear before backing off guaranteed.

There was no specific mention of using red Locktite that I could find in the manual. There was a lock-washer on the bolt that didn't lose it's hardware (but which was very loose none the less) when I originally found the problem. There was also no sign of any color on the threads of the original bolts when I took them out.

I asked a couple of independent bike mechanics and a couple of local dealer techs and they all seemed to feel red is always better for the larger bolts (3/8 or larger) and blue is best for the smaller bolts and screws (with hex or torx type heads) in most applications. I also found out that the stuff is available as a gel now, which makes it much tidier, as it doesn't drip off the threads while one is fumbling with them to get things threaded back together.

I think I did go a bit over-kill with the combination of loctite and grade 8 locknuts and washers, and skipped using the lockwashers, though, as it was hard enough to get just the two pieces (nut and washer) into place below the mount.

I don't think the bolts are likely to break or sheer in this application, and the torque specification (33 - 38 ft./lbs) is well within the working strength of the bolts I put in (47 ft./lbs). I torqued them to 35 ft./lbs, which felt pretty dang tight to me. Tighter than I could have gotten them with your average standard 3/8 drive ratchet or box wrench.

Now it's time to go detail my front fender and clean and wax the lowers, bags, covers and anything else I can get to while the front of the bike is still open!

Sep 28, 2010 | 02:49 PM

#33

Oldtigercub

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Quote:

Originally Posted by Quadancer

Thanks for the suggestion. The problem I've had is that the clutch seems to drag when the bike gets hot. It shifts just fine when it's fairly cool, but starts grabbing a bit after it warms up. I changed the oil in the chaincase and very carfully measured in Harley Syn3 so that it comes up to just barely the bottom of the clutch spring with the bike level on a bike jack, but that didn't seem to help. I haven't changed the transmission oil yet, as the jack I have gets in the way...when the bike is sitting on it, the tranny drain plug is right above a crossmember where I cant get to it. I may have to get a wheel chock to hold the bike for some service tasks like that one. The fluid level looks good and the oil looks clean, but I think a heavier oil in that case might help some.

Sep 28, 2010 | 07:06 PM

#34

Quadancer

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From: Acworth Georgia

Actually, I spoke incorrectly - the clutch drag is the problem with finding neutral and the bang into gear when hot, and that is only going to cure by primary oil type and adjustments. Mine is adjusted correctly but does exactly what yours does - I think the swelling of the clutchpacks changes the clearances a bit by heat expansion. I was changing the tranny oil just experimentally in the near future for best shifting. My primary has Amsoil 40 wt in it.
At this point I've not determined from all the primary oil arguments which one is best as the anecdotal evidence is contradictory. One thing I'm NOT planning on doing is using automatic tranny fluid.

Last edited by Quadancer; Sep 28, 2010 at 07:08 PM.

Sep 28, 2010 | 07:45 PM

#35

Oldtigercub

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Quote:

Originally Posted by Quadancer

I checked around the oil threads and Redline V-twin seems to have the best anecdotal reputation. They make blends specifically for the chaincase and tranny. It's a little pricey, and not many auto places around me carry it, but I think I found a cycle shop online that I can get it from. I think that is going to be my quest for this week....find the Redline oil!

Sep 28, 2010 | 08:22 PM

#36

IndyClassic

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From: Kingman, AZ

Redline Shockproof is the most popular tranny lube by far it seems.
I used Bel Ray 75W140 syn in ours, not much difference I notice in my 08 but really quieted her 07 5th gear whine. Local Indy shop carried the Redline but swore by the BR. Can't go wrong with any 75W140 syn gear lube IMO.

Sep 28, 2010 | 09:47 PM

#37

RK14SGS

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From: SC

TC96 Motor mount bolts can loosen up before the 10K service... Check these if you are doing your own service(s)... That is from experience...

Sep 29, 2010 | 07:35 AM

#38

Quadancer

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From: Acworth Georgia

I think Tiger mentioned it there, that it's not a torque you can achieve with a 3/8" ratchet; it's a pretty handful even using a 1/2" drive - plus a snap jerk for insurance. Or, as an old bike mechanic told me once, "just enough to make you poop".
Does anyone have a chart that can compare specs between Redline and Bel Ray tranny oils?