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No. I wish it included that. The turner and dyno are going to run another $820.00 according to them. I am new to Harley and have been reading here all I can to educate myself. Not sure about the hydraulic tensioners though. You just gave me some more homework. LOL. I am more familiar with vehicles. For the parts/ work it sounds high for some reason.
I bought this bike from this dealer. I didn't know it had a stage one on it until the service manager told me after I questioned him about the type of air cleaner I had; which that question was sparked by Bitchin Baggers who put on my Bagger Brace. I asked about some pipes and he said "your gonna need a heavy breather AC" and reached behind the cover and said "oh..., looks like you already have one". He said the bike already had the stage one and to double check with the dealer to see if it had the download as well.
Well long story short, the service manager finally told me I have the stage 1 but couldn't explain what type of download. Maybe now I am being paranoid but, I feel like, what else aren't they telling me? The bike thumps/ lopes at idle, a lot more than my buddies 96ci heritage classic. How would I know if it already had some sort of cam set?
Again, it could be paranoia but when I asked them about my 1.5 front lowering kit they installed, they said it was all measured up and all was well. That same indy was like "nope, sorry, that's only an inch" and proceeded to show me a SG with 1.5" lowering kit and mine was off by .5'' of an inch. So again, I took the bike back and they said during the next service they would correct it.
Anyway, How would one know if they had stock cams or an upgraded cam set if they were not informed by the dealer, service dept or previous owner. I ask because I am interested in the advertised extra pulling power of the 254s. Don't get me wrong, the bike pulls well now but, a little more won't hurt either. Thanks all.
pulling the cam cover is pretty easy another easy thing to do is do a base line dyno run. If your numbers are higher then about 70hp/85tq you probably have a cam it wont tell you which one but then you will have an idea if you want to pull the cam cover to see. Most cams are marked on the ends. YOu will need to pull the cam plate but that too is easy if you have adjustable pushrods which in itself is probably an indication you have different cams. So now after typing that I would suggest pop of a pushrod tube clip and slide the pushrod cover up and see if you have adjustable pushrods. Only need a thin screwdriver and about 2 minutes to check.
pulling the cam cover is pretty easy another easy thing to do is do a base line dyno run. If your numbers are higher then about 70hp/85tq you probably have a cam it wont tell you which one but then you will have an idea if you want to pull the cam cover to see. Most cams are marked on the ends. YOu will need to pull the cam plate but that too is easy if you have adjustable pushrods which in itself is probably an indication you have different cams. So now after typing that I would suggest pop of a pushrod tube clip and slide the pushrod cover up and see if you have adjustable pushrods. Only need a thin screwdriver and about 2 minutes to check.
I would but, I am currently deployed in Iraq. Hence all the typing. LOL, otherwise I would be out riding right about now. But, what I will do is Skype a buddy and ask him to do just that. Thanks for the tip!
If it doesn't have cams already (245s), would you recommend the upgraded cam plate etc.. or would I do just fine with cams/spacers only?
Just got a new Street Glide and went with the 254e cams. Did the package that included the SE Tuner, pushrods & Heavy Clutch pack. Stealer installed into a new 2013 with a full V&H exhaust consisting of power duals header with Monster Rounds. A SE Ventilator intake to get air in and some pretty lil red plug wires. They put a canned tune on it and shoved me out the door warning me about breaking it in properly. Anyhow I've done my best to stay in some reasonable RPM range so can't say a lot about the cam and never rode it stock. It does get out of it's own way though and ran clean from 2000-4000. Rode with my son who has a 2008 SG (carbureted) with a 103 and they seemed to be real close but we had wifes onboard and I was in breakin mode.. After breakin I'll get a proper tune on it an dyno it.
Not a lot to go by here but it ran well and sounds good, no complaints about it being soft on bottom and it seemed to be pulling better and better.... FWIW I'm not one to lug one along and don't try and wring out every RPM either.
i have the hd 259-E cams, and my 103 with 10.5 compression ratio runs really crisp. the 259-E cams have .579" of lift, and work great throughout the powerband, lacking nothing anywhere. it pulls strong from off idle to redline at 6200 rpm's. check out the 259-e's
Another thing. I just saw that you have a new bike and I thought knowing my situation might be useful to you. I don't know how it differs in Australia, but here, when I was looking to just change my cams I was told by some dealers that it will void my warranty and was told by others that it won't. This was even while in my initial 60 day post-purchase period, when all upgrades are supposed to be covered. I even called corporate and was told that it is up to the individual dealers to interpret the warranty. That is fine if the dealer that does it will warranty it, but what happens when I break down away from home near a dealer that interprets it differently?
Not telling you this to discourage you from doing it, just making sure you have some more information. I finally decided that I'll stick with my stage 1 until the warranty runs out and then I'll do whatever I want.
#1 Any warranty work/upgrades should be covered as long as the owner has a warrantee worksheet showing the work performed and a clear statement showing it as warranty work
#2 A Reimbursement plan should be made with the dealer that did the work for any reimbursement needed. any cash paid out would need to be paid back or I would not do the cam change.
259e ARE high rev cams. They kick in at 3200rpm, not much power till 3200, then hold on. I don't cruise in the 3200 range, so, I am getting rid of mine, going back to the 255 for my 110 cvo.
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