I was planning on using my high beam on the FLHRCI to open my garage door till I did some investigating and found out that my remotes were 3v instead of 12v. Now i could still do this with a 12v relay to make the remotes push button but id still have to replace my battery in the remote every once in awhile. A simpler way is to use that aux switch on the left side of the nacelle to close the push button circuit. Just unhook the connector on it and solder it to the terminals for the push button on the remote and stuff the remote in the nacelle behind the headlight. Could even swap out the OEM switch for a momentary one. If you stick with the OEM switch you would just have to make sure you didnt leave it in the on position or the battery will be drained.

 

Do a search because I remember reading a thread on here from someone that modified their remote and mounted in inside the fairing and put a switch that they can push that will activate the remote. Pretty cool.

Mike

 

i use the hi beam to activate the opener . i mounted it behind the head light. easily removed 3 screws if the battery has to be replaced. going on 3 years and haven't replaced it yet.

 

I went with someones idea of buying a H-D odometer reset switch - it already has a weatherproof rubber boot on it and just mount it in the inner fairing with the remote velcro'd inside. Works great plus my remote's a 12 volt so I could wire it into the bikes harness.

 

Same here and I mounted my remote in the fairing as well:

 

I did this mod. My opener had a 9v battery and I just wired it into the 12v system. You could wire in a resistor for each the power supply to the unit and then a resistor on the switch itself.
A easier way would be go buy a new unit that utilizes a 9v-12v supply and just wire it in. As your solidering the leads on for the supply install the battery and monkey around with the positive on the main board when you touch the right circuit the door will open this is where you wire in the switch.

I will attest that the high beam is easier to use no taking your hands of the handle bars, flip the switch down the road when you get close your door goes up.

 

Check out posts 364 through 368 here for another great idea for a switch.
https://www.hdforums.com/forum/touri...o-save-37.html

 

...and although I work with electronics, I have my garage door opener disconnected.

Too many thefts locally, some guys driving around blasting radio frequency watching to see which doors opened.

my neighbor came over to tell me how much stuff he lost---I saw them, they looked like gardeners, couple of guys with leaf blowers as the distraction, while the other guys moved stuff from his garage to their trailer, and under tarps.

quite sure they got in by the garage- no other signs of entry, nothing broken.

mike

 

Here's my amazingly complex answer to a simple problem:

My design takes advantage of the “accessory” plug, and switch that is standard equipment on the ’97 and newer touring models. On the FLHR’s the switch is left of he steering neck, opposite the ones for the passing lamps. On the FLHT’s it’s on the dash.

You will need the following:

1) a Clicker brand universal garage door remote ($25.00 at Sears and Home Depot)

2) a 12 volt to 9 volt converter. I used one designed to plug into a cigarette lighter. ($16.00 at Radio Shack)

3) A Deustch 4-pin socket. H-D P/N’s 72117-94BK (housing), 72191-94 (pins, 2 required), and 72154-94 (locking wedge) ($7.50 total)

4) Some bonded two-wire line (I used speaker wire)

5) The better part of a roll of electrical tape

6) 6” x 9” piece of bubble wrap


The Clicker brand door opener is one of the few that uses a 9v battery. Others use smaller batteries. Also the case of the Clicker brand’s case works well for this project.

First, program the Clicker to your garage door. The Clicker has two buttons, but you will only use one. Whichever you select, keep track.

Now, disassemble the 12v-9v converter, and the clicker. Keep the entire Clicker case. You can toss the converter case. They both just snap apart. First jump the switch on the Clicker that you programmed to operate your door. It needs two wires jumping diagonally from lower left to upper right, and lower right to upper left. Solder short loops of wire in this “X” pattern. It is not necessary to remove the switch.

Clip the wires at the snap-on battery connector. Strip the ends, and solder them to the correct (+/-) outputs from the converter. Solder 18” of the bonded wire from the input point on the converter. Assemble the other end into your socket housing. The ground (-) goes to position 4, and the hot wire goes to position 3. Positions 1 and 2 are not used. I put a dab of silicone on those two holes, just to make it 100% watertight.

At this point, you can test your assembly. Plug the socket into the accessory plug under the seat. Hit the accessory switch, and your door will operate. Assuming it works, remove it for final assembly.

Place the Clicker circuit board back in the case. There should be enough space in the area that originally held the battery to hold the converter circuit board. I had to cut away a small part of the case base. It will depend on the exact design of the converter you use.

Now remove the button cover for the button you used from the case cap (it will interfere with the wire loop jumpers otherwise). Snap the front part of the case in place. Use a few strips of the electrical tape to secure the converter circuit board in place, and then snap the lower cover in place. Run your wires along the side of the case, and secure them with tape, wrapping the entire clicker, so you also cover the button holes, and any opening you had to make for the converter board. Then wrap the case in bubble wrap. Wrap the whole thing in electrical tape, to completely waterproof it, and then wrap your wires up to the socket.

Place the transmitter inside the low side side cover, and run the wire up to the connector, Plug it in, and you’re good to go. I secured mine with Velcro tape, so it won’t rattle around, but could be removed easily.

Harris
Denver, CO

www.youtube.com/conedown

 

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1C-Bxifv2Pk