Opinion, you got hosed.

 

Unless you're running hot I would keep the AFRs at 14.6 in the cruise range, as you will maximize gas mileage and it shouldn't affect performance at all. I have been running there for years with the PCV, PCV-AT, and now the PV--and have had no issues. The only potential issue is heat since it is related to AFRs. An oil-cooler helps keep temps under control, but without one running at stoich may produce unacceptable heat.

I understand only TTS and PV will do that, and it seems odd that nothing in the HD inventory will do that, even the Digital Technician. This is definitely available as an ECM setting, so why do they eliminate the ability to make this change? Is the legal dept. to blame? I just did it with the PV and it makes me very happy that my speedo is now reading with my GPS. Viola!

 

makes no sense to me that u hit a hard bump and that requried a new tuner and retune?dealer hosed ya.

 

welp... maybe... their latest dyno upgrade last week spelled out that no more previous SERTs will be run... something about software or cabling, can't remember what he said right now.. didn't tickle me..

I have the oil cooler and it helps a ton... they did say anything logged other than 14.6 was a default away from the O2, and it went open loop or O2 bypassed at that point, there was no leeway margin either way from 14.6...



this speedo thing is pissin' me off right now, NO excuse for that, the FLHx frame Police bike gets it, and we have the same radar dome, so why can't every FLHx have it? they said they can order a Certified speedo for me on my nickle though.. that's a hosing for sure, not doing that

 

wierd deal I tell ya, I also got to swapping 3 different exhausts and the original a/c out just playing and it ran exactly the same... thinking I had a pinched wire somewhere, but I took the entire bike apart and found nothing...

I also gained a faint vibration hi freq. buzzing like something in the engine is out of balance at the same bump time, but haven't figured that out yet,,, yeah, I know, they all vibrate, but this was also at the same bump time occurance, never had it b4..

 

Yeah, that seems a bit weird to me too. No, it's a lot weird.

 

I ran 14.6 with the PCV-AT (Target AFR tables) in the cruise range and accepted trims into a new base map before importing it to the Power Vision. That import feature changed the AFR table to 14.5 in those cells normally set to 14.6, although the AFRs imported were set to 14.6 in the Auto-Tune tables. Thus, the ECM is told I'm running open-loop in those areas usually designated closed-loop, which I am, and that the VE tables are set for an AFR of 14.5. It's a bit nebulous to me at this point, as I'm used to reading Target AFR, Trim, and Fuel Adjustment tables in the PCV software--which is a different animal and is a bit more user-friendly, IMO.

I'm looking forward to the upcoming AT-100 (Auto-Tune) app coming from DJ that will datalog from the WB O2 sensors and auto-tune modules which can be imported into the PV tune. I understand when this happens the ECM's AFR tables will be re-written to correspond to the PCV-AT tables. IOW, if I'm running 13.0 at WOT it'll show that instead of 12.5 like it does now, even though the VE table value really reflects 13.0.

I find inaccurate speedometers to be very irritating, and I miss the accuracy of the certified speedo on my old RK that was very close to spot-on. On this SG the error was 4% fast and I've been using my GPS for a speedometer, as I know it is giving me a correct reading. When I heard PV was able to adjust the speedo calibration it was a big factor in my decision to upgrade.

So the FLHP (police) has the ability to adjust the speedometer or are you saying it is already calibrated? I would think the latter and that the fudge factor on the civilian bikes is a legal issue, as if the speedo is incorrect it could lead to legal issues if the rider gets into an accident, gets a ticket, or whatever. It seems that all or nearly all OEMs, car or MC, calibrate their speedometers fast. My 16YO car is 5% fast and a friend's BMW MC is 8% fast. That's ridiculous.

I have heard that you can send the speedo to HD for a calibration, but I don't know how much that would cost or how long it would take. Plus, you would have a hole in your fairing until it comes back in.

 

I appreciate the feedback... I need to clarify one point I didn't write correctly earlier.. the bump created a distinct engine vibration, kinda like a slightly unbalanced 4 cyl like the K1100RS BMW I had in 1996, that thing buzzed your f'n brains out, this is the same feeling, but softer, but there nonetheless.... the next weekend after the big bottom out bump is when it started running crappy, shakes at idle bad enough that the lower fairing struts came out of the screw slots and elongated the holes, I had 3 struts replaced this week... the initial bump was 4-5 months ago... I made the decision to retune the bike to eliminate any tuning issues to chase the buzzing issue, as it started popping on decell, lost 150-200 rpm at idle, and ran balky starting the week after the hit, not crisp like the previous 4 years... having to buy the new tuner is starting to **** me off, but it's done... Iclick > AFR outside the 14.6 frames is locked at 13.2 and you CAN feel it transfer through those frames when powering on through the rpm range as it takes off like it just got cammed, i'm seriously thinking now on blocking the O2's and lock the AFR in the lower frames to 14.2-14.4.... one thing I did do was run E90 non-ethonal fuel on the dyno pulls as the bike LOVES it much better than the crap E10, gets about 3-4 mpg better cruising or 20 more miles to a tankfull... I also want to clarify that the dyno upgrade the dealer did just won't accept the old SERT, and they said ALL the dealers will have to do the upgrade very soon... i'm very happy with the dealers attempt to satisfy me so far.. now on to the buzz.. thanx

edit > my '97 RK had a calibrated speedo and it was spot on.. my '07 Vrod-AW was dead on.. this speedo is about 7% fast

 

Put on the rubber boots, thats so much BS. Any tuning device other that Tuning Link for the PC's operate independantly of the dyno software (Winpep). If they have set all areas outside of closed loop to 13.2, in my opinion these guys know very little about tuning a motorcycle.

 

The SERT is just an interface used to change the settings......they made me buy one but didn't even take mine out of the box.....they just pulled the disc from my box and tuned my bike with the SERT they already had sitting on the DYNO.....and then put my disc back into the box......I had read up on these and didn't want another electronic box piggy backed so I went with the SERT...it bothered me that they made me buy one that they don't even use.....theoretically I could use it but after paying for the DYNO that seems kind of stupid to me...anyway...there is no way they couldn't still use your (or theirs) SERT on your bike....it is just an interface between the PC and the bike.....