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obsolete SERT?

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Old Mar 13, 2011 | 02:22 PM
  #31  
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I was told the same as lonewolf stated ,as long as you have the upgrade on the software you can use the old one,as he said the sert is married to one bike,..i posted about buying used ones on ebay,scam... For a few hundred you could buy a thundremax auto tune.thats the way to go ..imho
 
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Old Mar 13, 2011 | 02:50 PM
  #32  
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as for the buzzing have a different wrench check the cranck runout.the first dealer screwed ya on the tune.i havent kept up with the new tuners but with the old sert many got charged for dyno time and got a canned map with one wot pull so they could hand u a sheet.this dealer sounds like u might have been better off with a canned map.
 
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Old Mar 13, 2011 | 04:39 PM
  #33  
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My dealer wanted to charge me to install an a/c on my bike (I already had the SE Nightstick slip-on installed). I had the SERT already, so bought the software and cables and did the job myself. Worked great with the "canned" map on the disk, hopefully I'll be able to do more with it as I work with it. I was told I could use my software on any bike, as long as each bike had their individual SERT. I didn't want to deal with a piggyback device either.
 
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Old Mar 13, 2011 | 04:58 PM
  #34  
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Originally Posted by BUIZILLA
also want to clarify that the dyno upgrade the dealer did just won't accept the old SERT, and they said ALL the dealers will have to do the upgrade very soon... i'm very happy with the dealers attempt to satisfy me so far
Your dealer is just jamming it to you without even giving you a reach around. Like others have told you the tuner is independent of the dyno. I have the original SERT on my 06 Ultra and just this past summer had it tuned on a dyno using the SERT with no problem. This next winter I'm going to pull the engine and go either 113 or 120 and it will be tuned with the same SERT I've had since September 2005. Yesterday I made an appointment at a Harley dealer to have my 2010 Trike dyno tuned using the TTS which is made by the same fine folks who made your SERT. They have the latest Dynojet dyno (DJ250ix) and the guy doing the tuning has no problems using the TTS. I choose the TTS because I can make speedometer calibration changes which Harley Davidsons offering can't. The only thing your dealer is attempting to satisfy is their own bottom line. I used to do business with a dealer much like that, I stress I used to do business. I got tired of being lied to and having to deal with their inept mechanics.
 
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Old Mar 13, 2011 | 06:02 PM
  #35  
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Originally Posted by msocko3
Your dealer is just jamming it to you without even giving you a reach around. Like others have told you the tuner is independent of the dyno. I have the original SERT on my 06 Ultra and just this past summer had it tuned on a dyno using the SERT with no problem. This next winter I'm going to pull the engine and go either 113 or 120 and it will be tuned with the same SERT I've had since September 2005. Yesterday I made an appointment at a Harley dealer to have my 2010 Trike dyno tuned using the TTS which is made by the same fine folks who made your SERT. They have the latest Dynojet dyno (DJ250ix) and the guy doing the tuning has no problems using the TTS. I choose the TTS because I can make speedometer calibration changes which Harley Davidsons offering can't. The only thing your dealer is attempting to satisfy is their own bottom line. I used to do business with a dealer much like that, I stress I used to do business. I got tired of being lied to and having to deal with their inept mechanics.
Dealers are too "book-time" oriented for me to trust them on something so precious as tuning.

They are allowed big book-time for tuning because a good tune takes a lot of time. But they 'settle' so often after the tune becomes mediocre close, because of their compulsion to capitalize. Put 2 hours into it and get paid for 5. They are proud of that amongst their peers.

A good independent is usually more worried about his reputation, than fussing with the time pressure. He wants to hold his head high, when people look at that dyno sheet. "I tuned that bike".
 
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Old Mar 13, 2011 | 07:12 PM
  #36  
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yeah, you got hosed. There was no need to upgrade your SERT to re-tune your bike, but then again, there was no need to re-tune your bike because you hit a pothole.

And whoever said their dealer used the cd and not the SERT to tune their bike has it backwards. They used the SERT and had no use for the CD since the software was already loaded in their computer. Either that or they didn't tune your bike at all, just did a dyno pull and called it "close enough".

Dennis
 
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Old Mar 13, 2011 | 07:30 PM
  #37  
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Originally Posted by Faast Ed
Dealers are too "book-time" oriented for me to trust them on something so precious as tuning.

They are allowed big book-time for tuning because a good tune takes a lot of time. But they 'settle' so often after the tune becomes mediocre close, because of their compulsion to capitalize. Put 2 hours into it and get paid for 5. They are proud of that amongst their peers.

A good independent is usually more worried about his reputation, than fussing with the time pressure. He wants to hold his head high, when people look at that dyno sheet. "I tuned that bike".
Your right there are dealers like that. The guy I'm going to have tune the trike isn't under a time constraint and I've been able to see the results of his work when he tuned my dads last summer, he did a pretty decent job, it run better than it ever had. After the guy finished it was smooth, pulled harder, run cooler and got pretty good fuel mileage. I think dealers get a bad rap because the hand full who screw the pooch, there are some good ones out there. Just as there are bad Indies out there, I had a tune once from an indy that was terrible. The sucker pinged, run hot, kicked back on the starter, just nasty. When I started looking over the map I could see the guy gave it a lick and a promise buy half assing the timing tables and maping the front cylinder and then cutting and pasting the front AFR's to the rear. I took it elsewhere and got what it should have been the 1st time.
 
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Old Mar 13, 2011 | 07:43 PM
  #38  
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Originally Posted by BUIZILLA
just got back.... bike runs good on the power, but a little lean at cruise and idle since the map is locked at 14.6 for an O2 reading under light load... I am told to correct that we need to drop the O2 function and lock in a 14.0-14.2 number on areas of the map... pulls real good other than that, better than ever actually... best stock block 96 i've ever ridden..

they did say this new HD tuner won't do speedo recal, so I seriously need to investigate that aspect now

all opinions welcome..
SERT (SE Race Tuner) can adjust the closed loop downward from 14.6 to ~14.2 via O2 bias tables set to 762 from 500. The SESPT (SE Street Performance Tuner) can't adjust closed loop as it is the new EPA friendly tuner.
 
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Old Mar 13, 2011 | 09:18 PM
  #39  
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Originally Posted by joflewbyu2
SERT (SE Race Tuner) can adjust the closed loop downward from 14.6 to ~14.2 via O2 bias tables set to 762 from 500.
I asked that exact question after seeing the map that was used, and that's what *I* wanted done at 14.2 at idle and cruise and light load with E10 fuel, and they said it couldn't be done, period, .... I also wanted a smoother transition... now i'm pissed.. tuner box and dyno was $809, 1/2 tank of fuel and 76 more miles on the clock... and I *could* have kept the SERT all along..

whats with this crank runout buzz? a friend told me today to see if the belt was too tight, and maybe the tire shifted back on the hit, gonna try and check that tomorrow night, rides straight as rails though with hands off..

also, the intake gasket was leaking on the back jug, and was replaced under warranty, didn't make much difference before the tune began,,,

you guys got me thinking about something with the hit and the ecm harness location, thanx
 

Last edited by BUIZILLA; Mar 13, 2011 at 09:20 PM.
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Old Mar 13, 2011 | 09:41 PM
  #40  
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Originally Posted by joflewbyu2
SERT (SE Race Tuner) can adjust the closed loop downward from 14.6 to ~14.2 via O2 bias tables set to 762 from 500.
Just a little of topic but clb's of 762 will give you a switch point of 14.53 afr. To get to 14.2 you would need to set them to 803. This is too far to adjust them as they degrade over time and their operating range narrows. If you want to run at 14.2 you are better off to take the bike out of closed loop and set that value on the afr table. Unfortunately you will now be relying on the ve tables being accurately calibrated.
 
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