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Tour Pack Hinge replacement

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Old Mar 18, 2011 | 06:33 AM
  #1  
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Default Tour Pack Hinge replacement

Good morning, Guys.

For those whom know how to search this forum for previous posts; something that I'm terrible at, there were some really good threads about replacing the hinges on the HD tour packs. They contained "tips" on how to, what to do and even the size of the bit to use.

Could somebody find those links and forward them onto me; please?

It is true; as soon as you think you don't need it anymore.........

Thanks in Advance

G

Ride In Peace
 
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Old Mar 18, 2011 | 07:07 AM
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Since you're replacing the hinges, you may as well get the Premium Tour-Pak Hinges 79211-08A.
 
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Old Mar 18, 2011 | 07:10 AM
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I just changed mine. Instructions come with kit. It's easy. 3/16" bit if I remember. My kit lacked the new (6) backup plates, so I drilled the holes on the stock ones bigger and used them.

Jack
 
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Old Mar 18, 2011 | 09:35 AM
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This is what I did from reading all the posts and used parts from everyone. I didn’t have a second set of hands and worked well. If you are careful no damage will occur and am just giving you what I did with no guarantees. Use this way if you will never use the stock hinges again as they will get damaged by the grinding.

1. I grinded off the pop rivets from the inside where you can easy get to on the tour pak lid, there will be two for each hinge
2. close tour pak lid
3. grind off heads for rivets that have the gasket behind the two remaining on each just lid pak right now, make sure tape all around the hinge just incase there is a slip they grind off easily just using a dremel tool. Use a pick or something to push out what remains of the rivet.
4. lift off tour pak lid, I flipped over and sat it on seat so can remove cable
5. Repeat steps 1 and 3 for hinge on the bottom outside for rivets that have the gasket behind them and inside for the others, the reason I did it this way was so not to damage the gasket with a drill. And is easier once lid is off.
6. Once hinges removed drill out the holes. For the bottom of the pak only drill as big as needed to screw the new screws through they should be only a little tight you do not want them to slide right in.
7. install hinges to tour pak lid
8. install the cable to the lid will be used to hold while installing the hinges to the bottom
9. install screws into holes on just the top holes and only far enough so they come out the other side to act as a ledge
10. place lid onto those screws and tighten each enough to hold the lid once all are almost tight install the bottom screws tighten all once everything is lined up correctly, dont forget thread lok
11. You are finished, take your time and be careful while grinding. The rivets are soft and grind easily

Hope this helps
 

Last edited by dougk33; Mar 18, 2011 at 09:38 AM.
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Old Mar 18, 2011 | 04:16 PM
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Disconnect the cable on your tour pack lid, then close the lid.

If you look on the outside of the original hinges you will see that the hinge pin is actually a screw that you can unscrew with a small phillips and allen wrench. Once the pins are removed you can just lift the tour pack top and set it aside to work with it on your workbench. I drilled out the original rivets with a 1/8" drill bit. Once all rivets are removed, use a 3/16" drill to enlarge the holes in the lid and tour pack and put your hinges on. Very easy mod to do...
 
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Old Mar 18, 2011 | 04:40 PM
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I did have problems with the old rivets on mine, they were loose and wanted to spin instead of drill out so I used a dremel tool to grind the inside heads off, CAREFULLY. Once past there the drilling out and aligning is a piece of cake but set the hinges up on the base bowl first putting the lid to the installed(loosely) hinges on the base and it can be done one person.
 
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Old Mar 18, 2011 | 07:10 PM
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I found when the pins spin, just drill them at a slight angle and the pin will spin less, if at all.

One thing to do that is not stated. Use some Blue Locktite on the screws. I found that after a few mounts, the screws were loose. I removed them one at a time. I applied a drop of the locktite and torqued them down. They have not loosen up again.

I am very happy with the performance and look.
 
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Old Mar 18, 2011 | 07:17 PM
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Ah Ha, I do believe the instructions say to put a drop of loctite on the threads before tightnening them. What it didn't say was to enlarge the holes with the 3/16's bit that you use to drill out the rivets. The new screws just don't fit in the old holes, nor do the alignment pegs on the new hinges.

The instructions also mention about taking the pins (screws) out of the old hinges, who would have thought? Anyway, I just did mine the night before last, and what an improvment.

David
 

Last edited by devious56; Mar 21, 2011 at 07:41 AM.
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Old Mar 18, 2011 | 07:51 PM
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Ultra89Rider is correct regarding the drilling out of the pop rivets. Anytime you need to drill out pop rivets you need to angle the drill a little in any direction and that will generally stop the rivet from spinning. One other tip that I did that worked well for me was that I completely installed the hinges without the blue loctite first, and then removed one screw at a time and placed the loctite on the screw and replaced it.

I found that it was easier to start the screws with out making a mess and made sure the alignment and installation was spot on before loctiteing everything. Pretty straight forward basic installation that anyone can do.

Roger
 
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Old Mar 18, 2011 | 10:07 PM
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Originally Posted by devious56
Ah Ha, I do believe the instructions say to put a drop of loctite on the threads before tightnening them. What it didn't say was to enlarge the holes with the 2/16's bit that you use to drill out the rivets. The new screws just don't fit in the old holes, nor do the alignment pegs on the new hinges.

The instructions also mention about taking the pins (screws) out of the old hinges, who would have thought? Anyway, I just did mine the night before last, and what an improvment.

David
I know it was probably a typo but wouldn't a 2/16's bit be a 1/8? Dat's a tiny hole.
 
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