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2003 Ultra Classic Issues

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Old Nov 8, 2011 | 09:04 PM
  #1  
cobra281's Avatar
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Default 2003 Ultra Classic Issues

Well I decided on the 2003 100th Anniversary Ultra Classic discussed here.

It has 15,183 miles on it and quite a few modifications that I'll list below.

Modifications
Stage One Kit (Could someone please explain what this means?)
Chrome Extended Handlebars
Chrome "Born to Ride" Mirrors
Chrome Harley Grips
Chrome Switch Housing (I guess that is what it is called)
Chrome Switches
Chrome Mudflap with lights

Now to the issues and the reason for this post.

Issues
The odometer/speedometer are intermittent (It worked before the bike was loaded on the trailer, and then it didn't when I got home.)
The blinkers do not work.
The stereo volume decreases when on the throttle. (And no, this is not because of the exhaust LOL)
The ignition still turns when it is put in the locked position. (How do I fix this?)
The headlight is yellowed. (How can I clean this or should I replace it?)
The kickstand only goes perpendicular to the bike and does not "lock" when down. (I almost dropped the bike because it rolled back and the kickstand almost collapsed)
I only have 1 key and 1 key fob for the alarm (How would I go about getting another?)
The fuel/volt/air/and the other small gauge have some condensation in them.

Please let me know if you have any ideas or suggestions on how to fix the above items?

Thanks in advance.
 
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Old Nov 8, 2011 | 09:24 PM
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Can't help you with most of that, but will tell you you can order spare keys from your dealer for 2 for $24. If you take the rubber cover off your key, you will see the key code. You should also learn the security override procedure in your manual.

Or I posted this earlier this year:

Thanks to reading HDF, I knew I might need to manually disarm my security system some day. So before I picked up my 2003 FHTCUI, I had Racine HD reset my personal code to something I would remember. I never checked to see if it really worked, but tonight there was thread about a guy who lost his fob and didn't know code, so now he has to buy a new module. So I went out and manually disarmed my alarm. The code worked, the 2nd time, first time I didn't read the directions right. So I am posting the directions in a condensed version that you can access if you don't have a manual
1. Kill switch OFF.
2. Ignition switch ACCESSORY
3. Hold both directionals in. Security indicator lamp will flash rapidly. (The one on the speedometer).
4. Enter numbers of personal code by pressing left directional the number of times in each digit followed by pressing right directional. For example:
If code was 12345 you would press left directional 1 time, then right directional. Then LD 2 then RD1, LD3 RD1, LD4 RD1, LD5 RD1..Sounds complicated but when you do it it is actually easy.
5. Security lamp will stop blinking, you are good to go. I recommend doing this at home on a nice day, not on the road in a thunderstorm, while your buddies are calling you an idiot.
If you don't know your code I think any dealer can program it for you. I also carry extra fob batteries, with me. It is a 2032 battery available all over, actually cheaper at HD dealer than most stores.


Oh, yeah. Stage one is a new air intake, new slip ons, and a fuel management system or adjustments. Gives you about 10 HP, and lets the engine run a little cooler.
 

Last edited by Ron750; Nov 8, 2011 at 09:31 PM. Reason: spelling
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Old Nov 8, 2011 | 09:33 PM
  #3  
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First off get a Factory Manual for your bike.
Stage one is probably an air filter, and a Harley Download to the ecm to give it more fuel for the more air it gets.

as for most of the electrical problems, clean the battery posts, and terminals , and put them back on.

The ignition lock I don't have an answer.
The Kick stand on a Harley moves , I don't think the stand will stay on a bike without the tab at the top, so post a pic of it, I would guess it is fine.
Don't know if a headlight restore kit will fix a yellowed Harley light or not, I replaced mine with the newer style like on an 06 .
Take the vin # to the dealer , get a new key if you don't have key codes.
The gauges are not sealed, so they will have moisture in them.
 
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Old Nov 9, 2011 | 12:15 AM
  #4  
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Modifications
Stage One Kit (Could someone please explain what this means?)
commonly this describes a high flow air cleaner and hi flow mufflers & usually a tuning adjustment- this results in 7 to 10 added horsepower.
Now to the issues and the reason for this post.

Issues
The odometer/speedometer are intermittent (It worked before the bike was loaded on the trailer, and then it didn't when I got home.)
The blinkers do not work.
The stereo volume decreases when on the throttle. (And no, this is not because of the exhaust LOL)
These are probably all related, the speedo controls the volume, it also tells the blinkers when to cancel-- look for some jackhole installing wrong bulbs or or led lights without a "load balancer" module.
There is a wiring issue somewhere...
( and changes to the controls ( like chrome) often result in pinched wires and interesting problems

The ignition still turns when it is put in the locked position. (How do I fix this?)
someone probably removed the ignition to remove the inner fairing or something and put it together wrong-- tutorials on this switch on youtube
The headlight is yellowed. (How can I clean this or should I replace it?)

replace- I've never seen one yellowed, but...

The kickstand only goes perpendicular to the bike and does not "lock" when down. (I almost dropped the bike because it rolled back and the kickstand almost collapsed)
hmmm, inspect it
I only have 1 key and 1 key fob for the alarm (How would I go about getting another?)
The fuel/volt/air/and the other small gauge have some condensation in them.

Please let me know if you have any ideas or suggestions on how to fix the above items?

good luck, Mike
 
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Old Nov 9, 2011 | 07:48 AM
  #5  
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Another thing. The button that controls the radio seek and band functions is missing.

Do HD Dealers sell individual buttons?

Here are some pictures of the kickstand. I guess I may just be used to sport bikes, but I have never had a bike almost roll off the kickstand on me.

Please take a peek and put my mind at ease.







 
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Old Nov 9, 2011 | 08:25 AM
  #6  
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Mike gave you good answers to all your issues. I would add you should first remove BOTH pos and neg wires from the battery and clean terminals and battery posts. I have seen some really weird things happen due to a bad battery connection, and a 15min job turned into a half day of frustration. Remember every problem doesnt have to be a BIG problem. Start small.
 
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Old Nov 9, 2011 | 08:29 AM
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Oh your kickstand looks normal. The tab at the top is smaller than the hole it fits in when weight is applied to the stand so you will have a little forward motion until it hits the stop. They all do it. You'll get used to it.
 
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Old Nov 9, 2011 | 08:33 AM
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your bike wasn't going to roll off the stand. the stand has a tab that prevents the stand from completely folding when weight is put on it. take a close look and see how the tab locks in. it will wiggle but the bike won't fall. however, if that tab is somehow stripped, the stand could fold up on you.
 
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Old Nov 9, 2011 | 03:25 PM
  #9  
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If I had a used key fob could I get it programmed to my bike? Could I do it myself?

When I went to get a new key for my jeep I was told once their key is paired to a vehicle, it can never be used on another jeep. Is this also true for Harley?
 
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Old Nov 10, 2011 | 04:16 PM
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you have had most of your questions answered. Dont understand about the "yellow" headlight. The headlight cover on the 2003 (and I suspect all harleys) is glass. There should be no way that will yellow like the plastic covers on cars. Has someone put a yellow "tint film" on it? If they have you should be able to scrape it off with a blunt object (lollipop stick). They used to do that in europe but i have never heard of it over here.
 
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