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23 inch front wheel brake, fork tube and slider information

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Old Nov 22, 2011 | 03:21 PM
  #1  
gambueller1's Avatar
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Default 23 inch front wheel brake, fork tube and slider information

So after just over a year I am back on a H-D touring bike.

This time I picked up an 07 Road King FLHR and am of course going to change a few things up. I have been doing a lot of research and believe doing a 23 inch conversion with the Trike Trees is pretty straight forward.

While doing the research I read in another place that one way to accomplish this and ensure plenty of space with between the frame and the fender (I will be going with the stock fender) is to use 2 inch longer fork tubes. Since I am putting on the 23, I want to change out my lower sliders to chrome ones, and I don't want factory because I want go with only one side brake rotor.

So my question would be do I really need longer sliders and if so how much longer would the sliders need to be, and where would you get them? Could I just get away with 2 inch longer tubes and oh lets just say for an example FBI smooth custom lowers? I am also curious about rotor size with the loss of a rotor, along with some insight on any aftermarket front brake upgrade (i.e. HHI or PM)

Great to be back, any insight would be greatly appreciated.
 
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Old Nov 23, 2011 | 11:26 AM
  #2  
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I'm in a similar state as you. I have my trees ordered along with my 23" front and 18" rear wheels and tires. I originally was going with a 26" front but backed off to the 23" because I decided on not wanting to cut the frame on a 2012 FLHX with less than 200 miles on it yet. The shop I use is in the process of converting an 06 Ultra to a trike and installed the trees yesterday while I was there. They ordered an aftermarket kit to do the job. Looked pretty straight forward and the trees had an appriximate 1 1/2" extension for the fork legs already so their going to kick the front tire out a bit. It looks like it moved the front axle forward between 4 or 5 inches. I haven't seen where anyone has used the stock front fender yet although that is something I would have liked to have had the option on to put off the painting for a little till I saved more money for a custom paint job. Did your source use a bracket for the fender mount?

I wouldn't want to just extend the forks without changing the rake and trail that far. I did it on my Road King and went with a 21" front, but definately wouldn't have wanted to go further as the handling definately changed and the front end got "heavier".

Keep us updated and I"ll do the same on mine! My trees should be here next week along with my wheels, but the front fender I don't know about.
 

Last edited by Gary H; Nov 30, 2011 at 09:09 AM.
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Old Nov 27, 2011 | 11:00 AM
  #3  
ickkey's Avatar
ickkey
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I'm also gathering 23 inch front wheel info for my winter project. I found a lot of great stuff here in this post from Robert Dennis.

https://www.hdforums.com/forum/touri...-pictures.html
 
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Old Nov 27, 2011 | 03:54 PM
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I just finished similar work on my 2011 road glide not much longer than a month ago. I actually started with the trike trees, but some problems I encountered that were unique to the frame mounted fairing model caused me to ditch them in favor of a set of trees from kewl metal. I didnt want to start chopping on a new bike either. I used smooth bagger legs from American Suspension that I got from Paul at Native Customs. I believe he makes a bracket that will let you use your stock fender with a 23. I also scrapped one rotor and went with a pm 6 piston and 13" floating rotor. It does have a differnt feel at first but I got use to it very quickly. Note that I said different not worse. I have put about 1k miles on it since I finished it and it rides, steers and stops perfecly. I did not lengthen my forks at all, I have only seen it done with more rake and usually with a 26. This info is first hand from my own experience, I hope it helps. Good luck.
 
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Old Nov 27, 2011 | 04:06 PM
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I am not a fan of doing the trees without cutting the neck. You take the chance of getting the death wobbles. I have felt them before and it's no fun. Usually you don't need +2 tubes unless you are running a 26. I've never heard of longer lower legs either. Do your research and call places like Sinister and Yaffe and ask questions. Good luck with your builds.
 
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Old Nov 27, 2011 | 05:22 PM
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I don't like any of the large wheel setups that I have found, they all seem to "flop" ,( put the wheel straight ,and it gets heavy off center) is the best I can explain it.
I think some of them look cool, but some look just plain silly.
 
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Old Nov 27, 2011 | 05:35 PM
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Originally Posted by Sonic69
I am not a fan of doing the trees without cutting the neck. You take the chance of getting the death wobbles. I have felt them before and it's no fun. Usually you don't need +2 tubes unless you are running a 26. I've never heard of longer lower legs either. Do your research and call places like Sinister and Yaffe and ask questions. Good luck with your builds.

I agree, when it comes to certain products like the hhi set up which is designed to be used in conjunction with a block to get the correct trail numbers. However, the kewl metal trees are specifically designed to be used without any additional rake in the neck. There are several differnt part numbers for differnt applications(wheel sizes) to get the trail exactly where it should be for safety and proper performance.
 
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Old Nov 27, 2011 | 06:16 PM
  #8  
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HD trike trees/+1.75" fork tubes
HogPro has adapters for 23"/stock fender

83374-09 L tree
83404-09 U tree
83800-09 L tube
83801-09 R tube
 
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Old Nov 27, 2011 | 06:59 PM
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These guys make raked trees http://hstrial-trickyairbillet.intui...cky-Trees.html
 
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Old Nov 28, 2011 | 07:47 AM
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The write up from ultraboy and information through discussions with others that have done this with minimal issues is what sold me.

http://www.ultraboy.us/Harley%20Rake...le%20Trees.pdf

In his write up he discussed the rake and trail offset and stated an 1 3/4" increase in length of the front end would help correct everything. I have also been told that if you don't increase the sliders and tubes, you could off set the difference in travel in the shock by going with a 2" tube and stock sliders (thus minimizing the probability of bottoming out on the fender).

I am comfortable doing this with that one exception, and only because I want to clean up the front end and not go with H-D slides. I want smooth sliders with only one side brake. I will probably need to pick up the phone and obtain some insight from some of the recommended resources.
 
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