Getting everything together to add SE-255 in my 103. Was told that harley recommends new lifters when milage is over 15,000. Thoughts? I've always changed lifters with a new cam anyway so it really isn't that much of a big deal.

Pushrods: Decided to open the covers and use solid push rods. Do I need new ones (SE 18400-03 perfect fit) or will the stock ones do the trick?

Opinions?
Thoughts?

Thanks.

 

Yes, new lifters are a good idea. Sounds like you are just changing the cam. If you go with adjustable pushrods then no need to remove the rockers.

 

Mr HOG

I know it would be faster using adjustable but I'm just not comfortable using them.

Will the stock pushrods work or do I need to buy new ones?

 

Id probably go ahead with new lifters if I was doing it but it would most likely be just fine if you don't. The SE 255's have the same base circle as the stock cams so your original pushrods will work fine too.

 

1931jamesw

Thanks! I thought the stock rods would be fine.

I see you have the 255's and the SEPST. Did you tune the bike yourself or did you have it tuned? Results as expected? For the way I ride (1,700 - 2,700 RPM) I feel the 255's will be a good fit.

 

how many miles on your bike? over the years I have wasted a lot of money on new lifters every time I changed cams. On my last cam change I left the lifters alone and they had something like 15000 miles on them from the last cam change. I put like 25000 more miles on them and they never had a problem. I would put new ones in if I had 20-25000 miles on them but if you have less then 15000 I would keep them. Look at them and if there is no visible signs of wear and they are not bleeding down You cams won't know the difference.

 

Things I learned from going thru the rockers on a 48H cam swap a few weeks ago.

1. Buy the fuel moto cam install kit except.... the Retaining ring for the cam, and the spacers. I ended up using the 0.120 cam spacers, part # are in the manual, and the clip you need the part manual for. Buying the fuel moto cam install kit gives you breather and pushrod gaskets o rings etc. much easier than piecing it out and only ~$60 shipped may be cheaper going Ala Cart but less screwing around running to dealer unless you have one close.

2. You want these low profile wrenches.
http://www.amazon.com/Kastar-Tools-K..._bxgy_hi_img_b

http://www.amazon.com/Kastar-KAS6529..._bxgy_hi_img_b

Trust me.

3. You will want to take your coil off before removing front rocker upper roller plate. Otherwise you will loosen a bolt to the point where you can't free the wrench of your bolt. Best not to ask how I know.

4. You may want to purchase a cheap set of allen wrenches you are willing to cut up as you will need a very short L to tighten the coil nut. You don't have clearance to install coil with the cover on, may not even be able to remove it with it on, I took mine off after removing rocker... see #3

5. It takes finesse to get the rear jug rocker cover, roller plate, and even more finesse to remove breather... but it can be done just stay calm. You will run into clearance problems even after pulling the tank.

6. You will not be able to torque the several rocker cover bolts, torque the ones you can and feel out the others. Or spend big bucks on the proper adapters for a wrench. I choose the former and have had no problems.

7. You will want to label your heat shields. Makes it less of a jigsaw puzzle when reassembling your exhaust.

8. You will want a high quality set of feelers, and a set of dial calipers. Only needed calipers at the dealer, parts guy gave me the wrong cam spacer the first time even though "it was in the right bag with 5 others"

9. Spend the extra $30 on the cam gear locking tool, wish i would have had it.
http://www.georges-garage.com/tc_engine_2.htm

10. You will want a good bearing puller, I used Gary Beaty's I'm sure others will chime in on this. Installs and removes and about $85. See if you can borrow one first I just ended up buying mine to use it once.

11. This video is your best friend.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=n5KvamRqCis

I think that about covers everything I learned though I'm sure I'm forgetting something. Cheers

 

I did not do the tune and I personally did not care for the 255's. The set up you see in my signature need to be changed. I recently sold that bike and bought a 2012 Road Glide Custom. I had the bike you're asking about on two different dynos with 2 different guys 3 different times. I had good numbers for the build but a pretty bad dip in the TQ curve and it wasnt just on a dyno sheet, it was also seat of the pants. To make a long story short, I had heat issues with the 255 cams but I really dont think it is at at all typical. Most guys that want a stump puller really like the 255's. I have been reading up on the tuner you asked about and apparently if you have EITMS activated, which I did, it over rides the target AFR's your dyno tuner tells the ECM to run at idle and this in part explains why my EITMS would activate when I didnt think it should.