Built the best engine cooling system...again
1. I have the Black finned head bolt bridge on my RGU, would it have to come off to get the full effect of Jasons set up. anybody runs Jasons set up successfully with the bridges on.
2. Anybody runs this set-up with lowers during the summer. Does the bike run cooler. I have to remove the lowers on my Ultra to ride comfortably during the summer, but I prefer if I can leave them on to get protection from debris in highways, etc...
Thanks in advance for your replies.
1. I had head bolt bridges on my bike as well when I first installed the fans. Sure the fans will help with the bridges in place, but it's kind of like kissing your sister or taking a bath in your socks....it's just not the intended situation. Jason desinged these fans to direct air through the open channels behind your spark plugs in order to displace heat away from the head area. I removed the bolt bridges and actually saw a good improvement in cooling. Toss the head bridges in my opinion.
2. I live here in the south where it gets 90+ with 90+ humidity all of the time in the summer. I have never even contemplated removing my lowers. Lowers actually provide a ducting effect that helps in the cooling of your motor. Jason's fans still provide cooling as you tool down the road, I think he indicates that this cooling effect is present at speeds up to 80 mph.
I've sometimes noticed the fans seem to run longer than you'd think they should. Other times they shut off pretty quickly. But I've never yet walked out to a dead battery. If you want to sit and time them when you're able just out of curiosity to establish an average, then maybe you will find they're running excessively long. Talk to Jason and he'll certainly work with you on any concerns.
I've quit worrying about them. My battery has always been fine, these fans don't draw much apparently.
These fans are by far THE MOST important single item/upgrade that you can do to cool your motor and oil temps. My RK is bone stock with just a Stage I, PCV, Jagg and FCS. It now runs 215*-225* all summer long. If I get into some stop n go on a hot day then it may wander into the 230's. I've only seen it hit 245* one time and that was in 100* in prolonged stop n go in Los Angeles. Otherwise it never seems to get much over 225-230* even in 90's temps. If in 70's-80's temps it'll run about 210-215* on a long freeway run at 75 mph.
Prior to the install of FCS and Jagg 10-row I would average 240* even on cool 50's-60's days (moving at 75mph) and on 90's days hit 260's* at freeway speeds. Sometimes I'd even hit 280* in bad stop n go on a HOT day.
In extreme conditions my bike runs 30-40* cooler than when it was bone stock from the factory. Some of this is due to the Jagg, PCV and the Stage I, but the majority of that heat reduction is from the FCS. On my bike I did it in stages: starting with PCV, then exhaust, then intake. Then the Jagg. Then finally the FCS was the LAST THING I installed. Only when the FCS was done did I see a dramatic change, all the other things I did combined did not equal what just the FCS fans alone accomplished.
If you want your bike to run cooler but your budget is limited, START with the FCS, then gradually upgrade the other things until you eventually get the full Stage I set-up complete.
** All my temp references are OIL TEMP using a very accurate custom mechanical/analog temp gauge **
Just go on the website. He has an email address there. Just send him an email explaining the problem and he will take care of you. He has great customer service!
The Best of Harley-Davidson for Lifelong Riders
Its not a precision switching device, its a simple bimetal thermal switch, which in this application does the job of providing an automatic switching function with reasonable predictability, at a reasonable cost. I gave up the pursuit of a complex digital switching control device because it is not cost effective for me or the customer and it adds no performance benefit to the system. The new snap switch is working great it is a vast improvement over the creep switch, which is the device some people were having issues with.
Its not a precision switching device, its a simple bimetal thermal switch, which in this application does the job of providing an automatic switching function with reasonable predictability, at a reasonable cost. I gave up the pursuit of a complex digital switching control device because it is not cost effective for me or the customer and it adds no performance benefit to the system. The new snap switch is working great it is a vast improvement over the creep switch, which is the device some people were having issues with.






