Brake Rotor Question
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Tourer
Joined: Jun 2009
Posts: 275
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From: S.E. Michigan
Brake Rotor Question
I have a 2000 ultra in need of new Brake Rotors front and back. Here is the
Question I would like to install full Floating rotors. What are the pros and cons?
Can i just install floating on the front and stock on the rear to save a few dollars?
I use 90%front brakes 10%rear brakes. Also Any ideas on brake pads?
What wears good ?
Question I would like to install full Floating rotors. What are the pros and cons?
Can i just install floating on the front and stock on the rear to save a few dollars?
I use 90%front brakes 10%rear brakes. Also Any ideas on brake pads?
What wears good ?
Look at Rush's new Vengence brake rotors they are very nice....1994 2012 bikes
http://www.epiflex.com/vengeance_rotor.html
http://www.epiflex.com/vengeance_rotor.html
I have a 2000 ultra in need of new Brake Rotors front and back. Here is the
Question I would like to install full Floating rotors. What are the pros and cons?
Can i just install floating on the front and stock on the rear to save a few dollars?
I use 90%front brakes 10%rear brakes. Also Any ideas on brake pads?
What wears good ?
Question I would like to install full Floating rotors. What are the pros and cons?
Can i just install floating on the front and stock on the rear to save a few dollars?
I use 90%front brakes 10%rear brakes. Also Any ideas on brake pads?
What wears good ?
Extreme HDF Member
Joined: Sep 2010
Posts: 14,744
Likes: 402
From: Phoenix '53, '88, '09 Big Twins
I'll stay out of the rotor because I don't have the 2000 style brakes ( I have earlier and later).
pads, I have good results with the stock pads, I also have some EBC's on my evo.
the considerations with pads are:
hard pads last a long time and don't make much dust- but are likely to squeal- you have to be dilligent about applying anti squeak to the back of the pads and lubing the pins
soft pads are less likely to squeal, but don't last as long and are dirty.
both pads will stop much the same.
when you pull the calipers, clean off dirt and dust.
then crack the bleeder before pushing the pistons into the bore--- as you push the pistons in, the dirtiest brake fluid will be expelled--- if it doesn't clear up, then think about flushing the old fluid out with new.
Mike
pads, I have good results with the stock pads, I also have some EBC's on my evo.
the considerations with pads are:
hard pads last a long time and don't make much dust- but are likely to squeal- you have to be dilligent about applying anti squeak to the back of the pads and lubing the pins
soft pads are less likely to squeal, but don't last as long and are dirty.
both pads will stop much the same.
when you pull the calipers, clean off dirt and dust.
then crack the bleeder before pushing the pistons into the bore--- as you push the pistons in, the dirtiest brake fluid will be expelled--- if it doesn't clear up, then think about flushing the old fluid out with new.
Mike
Seasoned HDF Member
Joined: Nov 2010
Posts: 17,548
Likes: 7,197
From: Oxford, Nc
I have a 2000 with alot of miles and what mkguitar says still goes with our bikes.
First off, Harley doesn't make a floating rotor (!) Look at mine, Teardrop Floating Rotors...except they don't float, they just look cool and I don't mind, I'm on my 3rd set. True floating rotors rattle, ( which makes sense.)
Brake pads: whatever organic kevlar you find works fine, usually EBC for me, which I get on EBay for cheap.
Always clean the pistons with aerosol brake cleaner, then shoot them down with WD 40 or similar. Push the pistons back, clean up excss fluids then install your new pads
And glad to see that you know how to apply your brakes correctly, ( alot of guys don't!).
EDIT: And yeah, a cheap stock rear in the back will work fine.
First off, Harley doesn't make a floating rotor (!) Look at mine, Teardrop Floating Rotors...except they don't float, they just look cool and I don't mind, I'm on my 3rd set. True floating rotors rattle, ( which makes sense.)
Brake pads: whatever organic kevlar you find works fine, usually EBC for me, which I get on EBay for cheap.
Always clean the pistons with aerosol brake cleaner, then shoot them down with WD 40 or similar. Push the pistons back, clean up excss fluids then install your new pads
And glad to see that you know how to apply your brakes correctly, ( alot of guys don't!).
EDIT: And yeah, a cheap stock rear in the back will work fine.
Stellar HDF Member
Joined: Dec 2005
Posts: 3,302
Likes: 275
From: Milton, Delaware
I have a 2000 with alot of miles and what mkguitar says still goes with our bikes.
First off, Harley doesn't make a floating rotor (!) Look at mine, Teardrop Floating Rotors...except they don't float, they just look cool and I don't mind, I'm on my 3rd set. True floating rotors rattle, ( which makes sense.)
.
First off, Harley doesn't make a floating rotor (!) Look at mine, Teardrop Floating Rotors...except they don't float, they just look cool and I don't mind, I'm on my 3rd set. True floating rotors rattle, ( which makes sense.)
.
I"m still running the stock rotor on the front.
Seasoned HDF Member
Joined: Nov 2010
Posts: 17,548
Likes: 7,197
From: Oxford, Nc
I've never been able to do it. To the best of my experience, they are all fixed, deliberately. But as I say, they look cool.
A true floating rotor sounds like a tambourine going down the road. It has to be that loose in order to adjust to the calipers on a race bike.
Last edited by Stiggy; Dec 18, 2011 at 06:55 PM.
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Tourer
Joined: Jun 2009
Posts: 275
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From: S.E. Michigan
Can you move the outer brake surface part side to side on it's hub, ( like a true floating rotor, ) or does it appear to be stuck?
I've never been able to do it. To the best of my experience, they are all fixed, deliberately. But as I say, they look cool.
A true floating rotor sounds like a tambourine going down the road. It has to be that loose in order to adjust to the calipers on a race bike.
I've never been able to do it. To the best of my experience, they are all fixed, deliberately. But as I say, they look cool.
A true floating rotor sounds like a tambourine going down the road. It has to be that loose in order to adjust to the calipers on a race bike.
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Club Member
Joined: Jun 2007
Posts: 45,429
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From: Bedford UK
I have after-market 13" floating rotors up front and a factory floating rotor on the rear. But then I like to stop!
Let's clear something up. Floating rotors are made with the braking surface separated from the mounting hub, to reduce heat transfer. The two parts are held together by fasteners, some brands use rivets, others can be dismantled and replaced. When brand new they may or not rattle, it doesn't matter! As they get older and the miles roll by, they are more likely to rattle. The ability to rattle is not a judgement on if they are 'floating' or not.
Let's clear something up. Floating rotors are made with the braking surface separated from the mounting hub, to reduce heat transfer. The two parts are held together by fasteners, some brands use rivets, others can be dismantled and replaced. When brand new they may or not rattle, it doesn't matter! As they get older and the miles roll by, they are more likely to rattle. The ability to rattle is not a judgement on if they are 'floating' or not.