Project "Cheapskate"
Thread Starter
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Cruiser
Joined: Jan 2012
Posts: 246
Likes: 1
From: NE
I had a little time Thursday before dinner and needed to unwind a little after work, so first things first....
Now that the edge is off I thought I'd do the most talked about "Upgrade" on the site. The remote control mod. In case you need the P/N's they are 67854-98 for the switch and 67880-94 for the rubber boot cover. So get your soldering iron heated up, after it's warmed up clean the tip with a damp towel or old sponge, then touch the tip with some solder to give it a fresh "tin". Strip your wires and cut them close, about 1/4" exposed would be good.
Then apply a little more solder to the tip of the iron, then touch the iron to the stripped wire letting the solder flow onto the wire.
That is what a "tinned" wire looks like and makes it very easy to attach to another "tinned" or soldered item. I had previously located the switch and contacts on my remote control circuit board. And tested them by shorting with a screw driver to make sure I had the right contacts. Yep the door went up and down.
So flip the board over, lay a wire on top of the switch contact wires and touch the soldering iron to the wire. The solder on the tinned wire will melt and join with the solder on the printed circuit board. Repeat with the other wire.
Next I got lucky as the remote control was 12 volts, so just add a red wire to the positive contact and a black wire to the negative contact. I drilled a 3/32 diameter hole through each contact 1st to allow me to insert the tinned wire into. Hold the battery contacts with needle nose pliers or something to keep them from breaking or binding up when you drill them. Then put your wire into the hole, touch with the soldering iron, apply a little additional solder and repeat.
I was able to put the circuit board back into the original case running the wires out the bottom of the battery access door. Now just a matter of putting the switch into the hole in the fairing and using 3m ties to hold the remote case along side a wiring loom.
And the cigar is just about done.
Now that the edge is off I thought I'd do the most talked about "Upgrade" on the site. The remote control mod. In case you need the P/N's they are 67854-98 for the switch and 67880-94 for the rubber boot cover. So get your soldering iron heated up, after it's warmed up clean the tip with a damp towel or old sponge, then touch the tip with some solder to give it a fresh "tin". Strip your wires and cut them close, about 1/4" exposed would be good.
Then apply a little more solder to the tip of the iron, then touch the iron to the stripped wire letting the solder flow onto the wire.
That is what a "tinned" wire looks like and makes it very easy to attach to another "tinned" or soldered item. I had previously located the switch and contacts on my remote control circuit board. And tested them by shorting with a screw driver to make sure I had the right contacts. Yep the door went up and down.
So flip the board over, lay a wire on top of the switch contact wires and touch the soldering iron to the wire. The solder on the tinned wire will melt and join with the solder on the printed circuit board. Repeat with the other wire.
Next I got lucky as the remote control was 12 volts, so just add a red wire to the positive contact and a black wire to the negative contact. I drilled a 3/32 diameter hole through each contact 1st to allow me to insert the tinned wire into. Hold the battery contacts with needle nose pliers or something to keep them from breaking or binding up when you drill them. Then put your wire into the hole, touch with the soldering iron, apply a little additional solder and repeat.
I was able to put the circuit board back into the original case running the wires out the bottom of the battery access door. Now just a matter of putting the switch into the hole in the fairing and using 3m ties to hold the remote case along side a wiring loom.
And the cigar is just about done.
Last edited by Batman7349; Feb 24, 2012 at 06:33 AM.
Thread Starter
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Cruiser
Joined: Jan 2012
Posts: 246
Likes: 1
From: NE
I think I'm staying with my original vision this season and keeping the Chrome Spokes. Maybe next winter I'll tackle wheels. I just spent money on new bearings and they would be wasted, as well as having to convert to different axle sizes.
That's from rattling around in the "trunk" of my old Goldwing. I'll wipe it down before I install it.
That's from rattling around in the "trunk" of my old Goldwing. I'll wipe it down before I install it.
Last edited by Batman7349; Feb 24, 2012 at 08:54 AM.
Club Member
Joined: Jan 2011
Posts: 937
Likes: 22
From: Ontario, Canada
plus the remote is going to be stashed in the front console [i assume] and no body but the 300 people following the post will know
Club Member
Joined: Jan 2011
Posts: 937
Likes: 22
From: Ontario, Canada
I had a little time Thursday before dinner and needed to unwind a little after work, so first things first....
Now that the edge is off I thought I'd do the most talked about "Upgrade" on the site. The remote control mod. In case you need the P/N's they are 67854-98 for the switch and 67880-94 for the rubber boot cover. So get your soldering iron heated up, after it's warmed up clean the tip with a damp towel or old sponge, then touch the tip with some solder to give it a fresh "tin". Strip your wires and cut them close, about 1/4" exposed would be good.
Then apply a little more solder to the tip of the iron, then touch the iron to the stripped wire letting the solder flow onto the wire.
That is what a "tinned" wire looks like and makes it very easy to attach to another "tinned" or soldered item. I had previously located the switch and contacts on my remote control circuit board. And tested them by shorting with a screw driver to make sure I had the right contacts. Yep the door went up and down.
So flip the board over, lay a wire on top of the switch contact wires and touch the soldering iron to the wire. The solder on the tinned wire will melt and join with the solder on the printed circuit board. Repeat with the other wire.
Next I got lucky as the remote control was 12 volts, so just add a red wire to the positive contact and a black wire to the negative contact. I drilled a 3/32 diameter hole through each contact 1st to allow me to insert the tinned wire into. Hold the battery contacts with needle nose pliers or something to keep them from breaking or binding up when you drill them. Then put your wire into the hole, touch with the soldering iron, apply a little additional solder and repeat.
I was able to put the circuit board back into the original case running the wires out the bottom of the battery access door. Now just a matter of putting the switch into the hole in the fairing and using 3m ties to hold the remote case along side a wiring loom.
And the cigar is just about done.
Now that the edge is off I thought I'd do the most talked about "Upgrade" on the site. The remote control mod. In case you need the P/N's they are 67854-98 for the switch and 67880-94 for the rubber boot cover. So get your soldering iron heated up, after it's warmed up clean the tip with a damp towel or old sponge, then touch the tip with some solder to give it a fresh "tin". Strip your wires and cut them close, about 1/4" exposed would be good.
Then apply a little more solder to the tip of the iron, then touch the iron to the stripped wire letting the solder flow onto the wire.
That is what a "tinned" wire looks like and makes it very easy to attach to another "tinned" or soldered item. I had previously located the switch and contacts on my remote control circuit board. And tested them by shorting with a screw driver to make sure I had the right contacts. Yep the door went up and down.
So flip the board over, lay a wire on top of the switch contact wires and touch the soldering iron to the wire. The solder on the tinned wire will melt and join with the solder on the printed circuit board. Repeat with the other wire.
Next I got lucky as the remote control was 12 volts, so just add a red wire to the positive contact and a black wire to the negative contact. I drilled a 3/32 diameter hole through each contact 1st to allow me to insert the tinned wire into. Hold the battery contacts with needle nose pliers or something to keep them from breaking or binding up when you drill them. Then put your wire into the hole, touch with the soldering iron, apply a little additional solder and repeat.
I was able to put the circuit board back into the original case running the wires out the bottom of the battery access door. Now just a matter of putting the switch into the hole in the fairing and using 3m ties to hold the remote case along side a wiring loom.
And the cigar is just about done.
http://www.narleychoppers.com/servle...***-%26/Detail
Thread Starter
|
Cruiser
Joined: Jan 2012
Posts: 246
Likes: 1
From: NE
Frontier Harley in Lincoln had them for the following:
Switch 67854-98 $12.52
Boot 67880-94 $ 2.00
Maybe the on time where the dealer might be cheaper.
Switch 67854-98 $12.52
Boot 67880-94 $ 2.00
Maybe the on time where the dealer might be cheaper.
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Joined: Dec 2009
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Its cool you posted about the garage door mod. I just started mine at work last night. I took my housing apart, and any hole, for the buttons and everything, I sealed up with 1826B1/2 sealant and over the holes I put a piece of 0.050 aluminum, I didn't have time to solder the wires yet, but will get to that tonight. The aluminum will get a nice piece of velcro stuck to it, and then the inside of my front fairing. Hopefully it'll be weatherproof. I need to check and see if it is 12V, I didn't bother last night. Keep up the good work.