Tips for using my jack, please
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Road Master
Joined: Jul 2010
Posts: 963
Likes: 1
From: Bellefonte PA
Tips for using my jack, please
I have a jack that I bought years ago at I think Pep Boys. From what I can tell its pretty similar to the Harbor Freight or Sears jacks that people use. I used it a few times to work on my Sporty, but haven't used it in a long time.
I will be using it to do the cam job on my Road King and am looking for a little advice. I assume I want to slide it under the bike from the left side so it is not in my way while I am working in the cam chest. I am not sure exactly what part of the frame it should be under to provide the most stability as far as front, rear, or centered. The jack has places to attach straps. Should I use them, and if so where should the straps go on the bike? This jack has a lever that you turn to release and lower it, and I'm a little concerned about it coming down too fast. Anyone have any tips that has experience with this particular jack or one like it? And no buying a pitbull or J&S isn't an option. Thanks.
I will be using it to do the cam job on my Road King and am looking for a little advice. I assume I want to slide it under the bike from the left side so it is not in my way while I am working in the cam chest. I am not sure exactly what part of the frame it should be under to provide the most stability as far as front, rear, or centered. The jack has places to attach straps. Should I use them, and if so where should the straps go on the bike? This jack has a lever that you turn to release and lower it, and I'm a little concerned about it coming down too fast. Anyone have any tips that has experience with this particular jack or one like it? And no buying a pitbull or J&S isn't an option. Thanks.
Extreme HDF Member
Joined: Sep 2010
Posts: 14,744
Likes: 402
From: Phoenix '53, '88, '09 Big Twins
I use a similar cheapo lift.
It works fine and i have used it for many bikes.
depending on year, it can be difficult to balance the bike and have the rearward lft rail on a flat part of the frame.
DO use the straps, lift only as high as you need to, if you have to go for parts, bring it down low until you get back to working on it- if the bike gets pushed at either end, it could spin- ( so tight straps)
on a level floor.
if you drain oil and it gets all slippy, remember that the rubber pads may not have the friction on the frame that they did when you first tried it
get a Pal to help you go up and down.
if ever pulling a wheel, remember that the balance point changes as soon as the wheel is disconnected, don't want to bike to nose-dive.
plan for the dumb thing like the dog running into it, your kid trying to climb on etc.
you asked all the right questions.
one more- some of the chinese lifts had problems with unrated bolts of the pivot points shearing off.
$10 at a hardware store will get you replacement GRADE 8 bolts
mike
It works fine and i have used it for many bikes.
depending on year, it can be difficult to balance the bike and have the rearward lft rail on a flat part of the frame.
DO use the straps, lift only as high as you need to, if you have to go for parts, bring it down low until you get back to working on it- if the bike gets pushed at either end, it could spin- ( so tight straps)
on a level floor.
if you drain oil and it gets all slippy, remember that the rubber pads may not have the friction on the frame that they did when you first tried it
get a Pal to help you go up and down.
if ever pulling a wheel, remember that the balance point changes as soon as the wheel is disconnected, don't want to bike to nose-dive.
plan for the dumb thing like the dog running into it, your kid trying to climb on etc.
you asked all the right questions.
one more- some of the chinese lifts had problems with unrated bolts of the pivot points shearing off.
$10 at a hardware store will get you replacement GRADE 8 bolts
mike
Last edited by mkguitar; Feb 6, 2012 at 01:07 PM.
Outstanding HDF Member
Joined: Nov 2006
Posts: 2,144
Likes: 10
From: Mass
..yup...I have the Sears red one that is pretty much identical to that one...first off, you'll find that it's a tight fit to get the jack arms under the frame, some guys roll their bike onto a piece of wood at least an inch thick, one piece under each tire, I find if the bike is standing straight up(piece of wood under the kick stand, or if you have *****, just lift the bike off the kick stand holding it straight while you slide the jack under(best to have wood under the kickstand to get the bike pretty much straight and not leaning, while holding onto one of the handlebar grips. Trial and error will get you to find the sweet spot under the frame where the weight is pretty much even when you start to lift the bike. If the front or back is coming up first, just lower, readjust, then try again. It should go up level. Once up, get it to where you want it, then flip down the bar-lever on the jack that locks into a slot, so that the jack can't seep and lower by itself over time. Then strap down the bike going over the seat, but wad up a thick towel, or a pillow, or something similar, so that the strap isn't crushing into the seat. The strap itself doesn't have to be crazy-tight. Should be snug, but no need to crank it down like you were trailering it. When done, just reverse the order. Hold onto the handlebars and use the foot lever when you lower it, and kind of feather it a little so it doesn't come screaming down. When it's down and level, use your foot to pullkl the jack out from under, then, still holding the bars, just lower it onto the kick stand. It's really easy...good luck!
Extreme HDF Member
Joined: Jun 2011
Posts: 10,216
Likes: 224
From: Glendale AZ
Normally it goes in from the right side as the jiffy will be in the way from the left. I would eyeball it and center it with equal distance with the frame running across the bottom. Start raising it until the front ewheel is an inch off the ground. If the rear wheel is at the inch height as well, go up another inch. If the front appears higher than the rear lower it down and move it back about an inch and start over. If the rear is higher than the front, then lower it and move it forward an inch.When you can raise it up as high as you want and bothe wheels are pretty much the same height that will be you mount points from now on.
Outstanding HDF Member
Joined: Jul 2007
Posts: 2,241
Likes: 7
From: Daytona, Fla.
The lift goes in on the right side. Otherwise you have to have two people. One to hold the bike, & one to operate the lift. Don't worry about the lift being in the way, that's what you're doing with it, lifting the bike above interference.
For strapping the bike down just run a strap across the motor/transmission behind the rear cylinder. Don't pull the strap too tight, it's just there to prevent the bike from moving. Too tight & you won't be able to lift the bike. Take it slow on the first lift or two & you'll find the balance points.
For strapping the bike down just run a strap across the motor/transmission behind the rear cylinder. Don't pull the strap too tight, it's just there to prevent the bike from moving. Too tight & you won't be able to lift the bike. Take it slow on the first lift or two & you'll find the balance points.
Extreme HDF Member
Joined: Sep 2005
Posts: 11,615
Likes: 50
From: Baton Rouge, LA
I don't recall if I slid the jack in from the left or right side for my cam jobs, but I doubt if it'd be in the way much coming in from the right. If the jack is on the right side of the bike I slide the left rail under the dogbone of the frame. This makes it a bit front-heavy and I always use my auto floor jack for added support for the front wheel, with another support (box, etc.) as a safety for the rear as well. My MC jack is similar to yours but has no straps, so I never use them even though I could fabricate something.
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Seasoned HDF Member
Joined: Feb 2007
Posts: 6,072
Likes: 1,124
From:
I have the same jack but it is used with a road king.It works for my use. I keep the kickstand down at all times when using it. I double check that kickstand is down before lowering. Bottle can leak(loss of pressure) and make lowering difficult if raised to max and placed on locks. The locks are NOT the best and can slip. I would avoid overnight or extended storage in a raised position with-out a back-up insurance plan if the locks failed.
Used for all basic service, front wheel removal and installation of chrome legs. i have had it for over 6 years at least.. but i did replace the bottle once for free.
Used for all basic service, front wheel removal and installation of chrome legs. i have had it for over 6 years at least.. but i did replace the bottle once for free.
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Tourer
Joined: Dec 2009
Posts: 320
Likes: 48
From: Mobile, AL
I have the Harbor Freight jack that is similar and I use it from either side depending on what I'm working on but as a general rule I slide it under from the left. My UC is lowered 1 inch so I position the jack and stand the bike up a little from the jiffy stand and, using my foot slide the jack on under the frame behind the jiffy stand (that's where my center of gravity is). I then give the foot pump a couple of pumps until the bike just straightens up and rests totally on the jack. I then verify both frame rails are resting on the jack properly and then jack it on up. I never use the strap but that's just me. I usually store mine on the jack, roll my bike around on it, turn it around, etc. Never had a problem EXCEPT.....ALWAYS, ALWAYS use the safety catch on the jack.
It is very depressing to see your new scoot laying on it's side because the jack leaked down and operator didn't use the safety catch.
It is very depressing to see your new scoot laying on it's side because the jack leaked down and operator didn't use the safety catch.
