Any hints on changing headers?
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Road Captain
Joined: Oct 2010
Posts: 565
Likes: 1
From: SE Missouri
Any hints on changing headers?
Any pointers to help change the headers? I defatted and Sunday will be installing the new. I assume you remove the mufflers first and then the headers. I haven't had a chance to look at it close to know where all its bolted. Anything to loosen to make things easier such as floorboards or anything? Do you put heat shields on before or after putting the header on?
Damn I need to get my service manual. Keep forgetting
Damn I need to get my service manual. Keep forgetting
Any pointers to help change the headers? I defatted and Sunday will be installing the new. I assume you remove the mufflers first and then the headers. I haven't had a chance to look at it close to know where all its bolted. Anything to loosen to make things easier such as floorboards or anything? Do you put heat shields on before or after putting the header on?
Damn I need to get my service manual. Keep forgetting
Damn I need to get my service manual. Keep forgetting
Road Captain
Joined: Feb 2012
Posts: 525
Likes: 1
From: Oklahoma
Be sure to replace all the clamps with new ones. And don't tighten anything down until the entire exhaust is hanging. Work for 10, drink a beer, work for ten, drink a beer. Continue pattern until you're done or drunk.
Seasoned HDF Member
Joined: Apr 2009
Posts: 44,858
Likes: 29,836
From: PNW
The above plus -
Working off a lift makes it a lot easier.
I removed the rear floor board bolt and just loosened the front bolt and nut which allows the floor board to swing forward. Not a big deal but saves a little time and hassle.
!3mm long socket plus "8" extension to remove the rear header nuts and the top front. I used a ratcheting, pivot wrench to loosen the bottom because my lowers etc didn't allow access.
Be really careful when re-tightening the header nuts because it's fairly easy to pull an engine stud. I use copper antiseize on the studs.
I clean all threaded bosses with carb cleaner or brake cleaner and use blue Loktite 242 when reassembling. As mentioned, get everythi9ng in place before torquing.
What pipes did you end up with?
Working off a lift makes it a lot easier.
I removed the rear floor board bolt and just loosened the front bolt and nut which allows the floor board to swing forward. Not a big deal but saves a little time and hassle.
!3mm long socket plus "8" extension to remove the rear header nuts and the top front. I used a ratcheting, pivot wrench to loosen the bottom because my lowers etc didn't allow access.
Be really careful when re-tightening the header nuts because it's fairly easy to pull an engine stud. I use copper antiseize on the studs.
I clean all threaded bosses with carb cleaner or brake cleaner and use blue Loktite 242 when reassembling. As mentioned, get everythi9ng in place before torquing.
What pipes did you end up with?
Road Captain
Joined: Mar 2012
Posts: 689
Likes: 2
From: East Coast
you should be fine...just attention to detail, torque requirements...like when installing the nuts on the manifold, i'd run them down then torque-step so it flushes evenly with the head...heat shields come on after the pipes are in place...clean them of any hand prints/grease before starting...anyway, you'll be fine...good luck...
Road Master
Joined: Aug 2007
Posts: 884
Likes: 26
From: Mesa, AZ
Not a problem - Just take your time - Agree with all the folks and yes get new clamps - It will also allow you to inspect and wipe down areas that you may not normally get to.
I know with my install, don't trust the instructions completely. They are good reference but there were a couple things I had to do that was not listed.
I went to a true duel Rush ceramic headers and love them.
Good luck
I know with my install, don't trust the instructions completely. They are good reference but there were a couple things I had to do that was not listed.
I went to a true duel Rush ceramic headers and love them.
Good luck
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Road Captain
Joined: Oct 2010
Posts: 565
Likes: 1
From: SE Missouri
The above plus -
Working off a lift makes it a lot easier.
I removed the rear floor board bolt and just loosened the front bolt and nut which allows the floor board to swing forward. Not a big deal but saves a little time and hassle.
!3mm long socket plus "8" extension to remove the rear header nuts and the top front. I used a ratcheting, pivot wrench to loosen the bottom because my lowers etc didn't allow access.
Be really careful when re-tightening the header nuts because it's fairly easy to pull an engine stud. I use copper antiseize on the studs.
I clean all threaded bosses with carb cleaner or brake cleaner and use blue Loktite 242 when reassembling. As mentioned, get everythi9ng in place before torquing.
What pipes did you end up with?
Working off a lift makes it a lot easier.
I removed the rear floor board bolt and just loosened the front bolt and nut which allows the floor board to swing forward. Not a big deal but saves a little time and hassle.
!3mm long socket plus "8" extension to remove the rear header nuts and the top front. I used a ratcheting, pivot wrench to loosen the bottom because my lowers etc didn't allow access.
Be really careful when re-tightening the header nuts because it's fairly easy to pull an engine stud. I use copper antiseize on the studs.
I clean all threaded bosses with carb cleaner or brake cleaner and use blue Loktite 242 when reassembling. As mentioned, get everythi9ng in place before torquing.
What pipes did you end up with?
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