Originally Posted by grbrown

Hi Steel Wheels, well done for being so dedicated and persistent and getting through all this! A first observation is that handling problems up front can have their origins at the rear, something that has afflicted bikes of all brands for decades, for complex reasons. In the case of our rubber-mount Touring Harleys, those bikes built prior to 2014 have two fundamental weaknesses, one at the rear, the other up front.

The front problem is mainly centered on the design of the top fork tree and the way the fork tubes are attached to it, which gives the fork tubes poor torsional stiffness, enabling the legs to twist very readily and the front wheel to wander. The rear problem is as described above.

In the case of our rubber mounts the rear is the more significant, in part because the majority of the vehicle weight is on the rear wheel and if it moves it does so against the unpredictable resistance of the rear rubber mounts. When the front wheel moves it does so with free motion, provided by the head bearings, and with gyroscopic stability to assist it to rectify any meandering. Also we have our hands on the bars and can correct it, using our natural judgement.

When the rear wheel moves we do not have the same direct attachment to it, or ability to correct, as we do to the bars. So how to address the perceived handling problem up front? To be blunt it is easier and cheaper to start at the rear! Whatever model you have, adding a True-Track kit will significantly improve ride quality, rear-end stability and provide a much more solid platform from which to analyse the front end. The forks are not so easy, also more costly to sort out. If your bike has 41mm forks, the cheapest solution is to use a CCE Tour-Trac Trees kit.

Moving on, both front and rear suspension also affects handling and steering. Poor quality rear shocks add an extra source of handling problems at the rear, by simply failing to provide good control of the motion of the rear wheel. So if you have say stock air shocks, bin them! I'm not wishing to spend your well earned cash, but high end shocks have a purpose and benefit and will yet further enhance ride quality, as well as improve comfort. Again, the front end is more expensive to enhance, cartridges being the most appropriate upgrade IMHO.

I'm considering a wider reaching thread, expanding on this one, but haven't managed to get it sorted out yet. However I do practice what I preach and hope to finish my CCE forks with Ohlins cartridges before too long, I already have T-T stabilizer and Ohlins shocks at the rear! Hope that helps a bit.

Originally Posted by grbrown

...In the case of our rubber-mount Touring Harleys, those bikes built prior to 2014 have two fundamental weaknesses, one at the rear, the other up front...

Originally Posted by IdahoHacker

First, glad this great thread has been resurrected! Outstanding writing makes for easy reading!



I would like some additional info on this point. I have been reading (and studying!) all of the info on the weaknesses that were improved, but NOT entirely fixed, from the pre-09 to the post-09 Touring models. However, unless I missed it, I'm not aware of any changes from pre-14 to post-14.

I have been experiencing the wobble on my '15 RGS, but not to the extent of the butt-puckering level of my Dyna. Thank heavens! So, would the Tru-Track still benefit those of us on '15-'16 Touring models?

Thanks!

Originally Posted by bwoltz

I think that the poor torsional stiffness is really cased by not assembling the front end correctly. the main issue is making sure that the fork caps are torqued to max spec as are the top nuts is good enough.. The problem is that on assembly, it's hard to get the fork caps really tight unless you have a precision surface and good clamping to grab the tube.

Originally Posted by IdahoHacker

I have been experiencing the wobble on my '15 RGS, but not to the extent of the butt-puckering level of my Dyna. Thank heavens! So, would the Tru-Track still benefit those of us on '15-'16 Touring models?

Thanks!

Originally Posted by SeeJeepCrawl

Even after several years, this post is still providing benefit. Thanks for the detailed post.

Originally Posted by grbrown

That top tree does not and can not adequately clamp the tops of the fork tubes, no matter what we do. The design is fundamental flawed by using that 'top hat' on each tube, which isn't clamped by the tree. The 49mm fork bikes rectify that short-coming, as does a CCE forks kit.

Originally Posted by bwoltz

2014 they changed from 41 mm fork tubes to 49mm. They also added top pinch bolts and got rid of the fork cap / fork bolt scheme.. Not sure if any of the geometry changed when they did that.. Going to the bigger tube was long needed. Bikes are too heavy for 41mm forks.. Just look at what the fork oil looks like after 5000 miles.. Pinch bolts setup makes assembly and maintenance a lot easier.

Originally Posted by grbrown

A True-Track kit will significantly improve your Dyna, as it did mine for the several years I owned one. You will feel the improvement before you get into top gear the first time you ride it! Turning to your RGS, there is nothing about the Touring frame that is improved in those later bikes, so yes a T-T kit will support your engine rubber mounts and improve the ride. Your 49mm forks will improve steering and feedback at the front, the T-T will improve things at the rear.

Originally Posted by bwoltz

But the fork cap (hat) is clamped by a 16mmx1.5mm fork top bolt.. One thing is that if you use cheap after market rubber sealing rings on the top bolts the forks will not tighten and the bolts will work themselves loose.. Some of the after market seals are too thick. Also you have to get the "top hat tight. The 35mm x 1.5mm cap can take some TQ.. If you don't have the right tools you can use the lower tree to hold the tube but on bat-wings it's a PITA and getting it tight might knock the bike over.