Bagger wobble exposed!
I'm just sayin'
The problem isn't at the rear. I too have been working on these bikes long enough to know this.
When you put a reversed triple tree, which is designed to reduce turning efforts at low speeds, into a high speed lean angle, then add a tense rider stiff arming the bars, it'll wobble every time.
Take away the stiff arm input and just lean the bike using your weight then you and the bike will be happier.
The problem isn't at the rear. I too have been working on these bikes long enough to know this.
When you put a reversed triple tree, which is designed to reduce turning efforts at low speeds, into a high speed lean angle, then add a tense rider stiff arming the bars, it'll wobble every time.
Take away the stiff arm input and just lean the bike using your weight then you and the bike will be happier.
I'll take a piece of that PM...
what stabilizer is best for my 2010 flhtp?
and thanks!
I'm just sayin'
The problem isn't at the rear. I too have been working on these bikes long enough to know this.
When you put a reversed triple tree, which is designed to reduce turning efforts at low speeds, into a high speed lean angle, then add a tense rider stiff arming the bars, it'll wobble every time.
Take away the stiff arm input and just lean the bike using your weight then you and the bike will be happier.
The problem isn't at the rear. I too have been working on these bikes long enough to know this.
When you put a reversed triple tree, which is designed to reduce turning efforts at low speeds, into a high speed lean angle, then add a tense rider stiff arming the bars, it'll wobble every time.
Take away the stiff arm input and just lean the bike using your weight then you and the bike will be happier.
If that is true; and I'm not saying it isn't; then stiff armed riders with the add-on braces should still be wobbling. Have not heard report of any braced bikes continuing to wobble. Any like that out there??
Trout31
http://www.glide-pro.com/stabilizing-system/
http://www.glide-pro.com/videos/
Glide-Pro Install Part 2- Neck Bearing Torque
Full Length Glide-Pro Install Video
http://www.glide-pro.com/videos/
Glide-Pro Install Part 2- Neck Bearing Torque
Full Length Glide-Pro Install Video
I'll post some 'Homework' shortly, which will provide some additional reading!
great post...superb explanation.
but honestly, if i am pushing a touring bike hard enough to really feel it, i belong on a different ride for that style..and i am fine with that. Instead of trying to mod the existing bike which never fill the bill completely, i will look for a 2nd ride, which i will be after i get back from sturgis.
but honestly, if i am pushing a touring bike hard enough to really feel it, i belong on a different ride for that style..and i am fine with that. Instead of trying to mod the existing bike which never fill the bill completely, i will look for a 2nd ride, which i will be after i get back from sturgis.
I have to disagree! A stabilizer will tighten up the steering of your bike and improve the riding experience at all speeds. If you fit one you will notice the improvement before you get into top gear. If you never ride fast you will still benefit, as your bike will be more responsive and steer more accurately. We can ALL win!
That's very kind, but they did all the R&D they needed to do way back when! I also have a Buell and Sportster which both have rear stabilizers and they ride a treat.
For those of you keen to learn even more, try the following links to the wonder that is Wiki, for further reading on Kinematics, also Six Degrees of Freedom.
The Kinematics item explains that subject in more detail and the '6 degrees' takes the subject on a little further. The original rubber mount system can be related very easily to those 6, as each of the three mounting points allows free movement in very particular directions. If they were all perfectly executed, we wouldn't have anything to talk about!
The rear mount should only allow freedom to Pitch, all other degrees of movement being inhibited. The absence of a lateral stabilizer permits a small degree of left-right movement, the source of our wobble. I'll let you work out the other two!
The Kinematics item explains that subject in more detail and the '6 degrees' takes the subject on a little further. The original rubber mount system can be related very easily to those 6, as each of the three mounting points allows free movement in very particular directions. If they were all perfectly executed, we wouldn't have anything to talk about!
The rear mount should only allow freedom to Pitch, all other degrees of movement being inhibited. The absence of a lateral stabilizer permits a small degree of left-right movement, the source of our wobble. I'll let you work out the other two!
Last edited by grbrown; Jul 17, 2012 at 04:19 AM. Reason: Extra para.
Nice job Mr Brown. One consideration I woul like to add is the "mass production factor". These motors are not precision balanced from the factory, like most "production" vehicles, and as the years pass the tolerances have gotten looser, and this is ths the main reason for the whole rubber mount debacle; to tame the poorly balanced, odd fire motors. When balanced and tuned properly they don't require nearly as much rubber "buffering". The rubber mounted driveline assembly, lends itself to undesirable articulation in multiple planes, and it is far from being well suited as a high performance, high speed chassis. I have commented many times in the past about this design; is it a coincidence that there is no other motorcycle swingarm chassis ever built by any manufacturer that doesn't have a "firm" swingarm pivot via bearing or bushing? No its not, this design is just an engineering abortion gone wrong and for some reason the MOCO can't bring themselves to correct it. I have a solution to this design flaw, but I don't have the time right now to persue it agressively. I have a rough design that will incorporate the much needed "firm" pivot between the swingarm and the main frame, and maintain full rubber mounting for the driveline, effectively segregating the two. I just need to retire so I will have time to prototype and test it , and hopefully move to production. It is what it is; a big, heavy, cumbersome, poorly designed chassis, that we line up to eat like apple pie, because it has that beautiful shiny HD brand emblem slathered on the side of it, and like many others, with all its issues I still love it. Whether they work well or not, the third link type stabilizers are technically a band aid to a fundamental design flaw. I would just say get to know your machine and ride within its limitations and your own skills, it is classified as a touring bike, not a sportbike, so folks should consider that before complaining that it wobbles in a sweeper at 90 MPH. I have my welding gear on, so flame on LOL.






