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I had a similar situation happen on my 2012 SG. I was in 100+ degree weather and sitting at a construction sight when the engine sound and feel just went crazy, spooked me and I wasn't sure what the heck it was. the dealer explained to me that i wouldn't notice a thing and I wouldn't be able to tell that the rear cylinder was even shut down.. at least I know what it is when it happens now! It was funny after I realized my new scooter wasn't blowing up.
I had a similar situation happen on my 2012 SG. I was in 100+ degree weather and sitting at a construction sight when the engine sound and feel just went crazy, spooked me and I wasn't sure what the heck it was. the dealer explained to me that i wouldn't notice a thing and I wouldn't be able to tell that the rear cylinder was even shut down.. at least I know what it is when it happens now! It was funny after I realized my new scooter wasn't blowing up.
Yep, you said it better than me. The manual doesn't mention that when it kicks in, it sounds like the pistons are swapping holes.
I got caught in heavy traffic with construction in St Louis and experienced that rear cylinder shutdown while parked on the interstate. My solution was simple. As long as the road ahead was downhill, I kept the engine shut off. Just walk the bike forward when traffic moved. When it became an uphill move, I still shut it down unless I could see a car maybe 3 or 4 ahead of me moving. By keeping the engine off much of the time that I was more or less parked, it did not overheat. It is not a perfect answer but at least it avoids much of the heat problem that the rear cylinder shutdown is designed to compensate. I consider the rear cylinder shutdown as an indication that the bike's engine temperature is completely outside of acceptable values and I do what I can to help out by shutting down the engine completely whenever it is practical to do so.
just checked the manual for my 09 FLHTC.....says it is enabled or disabled....setting to be changed with bike not running.....
That is what the manual says, but the fella I bought my bike from said u could turn it on when running by flipping the cruise button to on and then rolling the throttle forward. He demonstrated it, but I couldn't hear much difference. Of course that could have been b/c of the V&H Pro Pipe HO.
I use mine manually ALL the time ( roll the grip forward and hold while stopped at a light).
This pumps air through the cylinder and the air removes heat. a cooler motor will last longer and the rider will be more comfortable
To turn it off makes no sense
it gets warmish here in PHX
Mike
Originally Posted by whiskyls1
I heard this from a friend and when I inquired about it further was told that you cannot operate it manually. It is either on or off.
Rolling the throttle forward just changes the setting from on to off.
Anyone else have any insight on this?
thats correct. manually, all you can do is to enable/disable the function. the ecm will go into eitms mode only if certain parameters are met, ie. cylinder head temp >285*, throttle in idle position, bike at idle, mph < 3mph.
now if these conditions are met, and you're eitms is disabled, and you enable it, then it will go into eitms mode.
I finally had a Harley Tech activate this for me, via a diagnostic computer link, on my 08 UC. It has made a world of difference when idling in stop and go traffic on really hot days. On my buddy's 2010 103 UC he only needs to roll his throttle forward while stopped to "activate" the rear cylinder cut out (there's an idiot light on the dash that changes color when this is done) and it works for him too.
I think it is turned off on my RK as I have not experienced it yet and I've ridden in some warm weather. It did kick in on the SG and Ultra I rented in Vegas last year while I was sitting in traffic on the Strip. Makes the bike sound like crap...got a lot of looks from people next to me in cars..."Nice Harley...sounds like crap" lol
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