Ok thanks for the info. I thought I might have been off a little.

 

Sigh... Add one more to the list and it seems to me to be the ONLY thing XIEDs could fix as far as pinging.

Too retarded of timing will end up making the bike run really hot, and then once hot it will ping. A bit of fuel 'could' help in this instance... other wise fuel will not cure pinging. Everyone ALWAYS thinks the timing is too advanced. I have found it is usually too retarded.... temps get well north of 300* and it simply pings due to heat. I never picked up on this until I started shoving bikes out the door with new tunes. Nobody, except Wiz, ever seems to mention this. The key will be to watch this on the road with a Data saving device. I have a Shop PV for just this purpose. On the bike that I discovered this with... it would get to well over 300* and then start pinging. Put the PV on it and played it all back and could see the steady climb of the temperature, until it got hot enough to hit the timing temp tables, those tables pulled MORE timing and poof... it became a ping monster.

Added like 5* timing across the board and the temps came down and stayed down. Had the bike back in and worked the timing tables and all was good to go.

I now watch for this on road testing after a tune.

OP? If you wish to fix pinging once and for all, you should have the bike tuned. Folks on here tend to recommend what they think works. They have no true basis for thinking things except for what they read and/or what they have on their own bike. One one bike, with no dyno time... they truly canNOT say if AFRs are better or worse and if they gained or lost power. I was truly like that for quite awhile, until I got so interested in tuning that I bought a dyno. Now... I get to bust some bubbles and see things I would never have thought of with my personal bike.

OP, if you know of someone with a PV or a TTS, they could lend that to you and have them show you how to hook it up. These tuners have no need to marry to a bike as long as only data is being recorded. Watch and see what the true engine temp is doing, from what the tuner reports back as data. Oil temp, coolant temp, etc have NO bearing on this either.

 

Very interesting, I don’t have any indication on what the head temp is but the cylinder shuts down at idle as advertized cooling opposing cylinder often above 90 degrees ambient idling for 15 seconds when pinging/popping occurs, anyone know what head temp should be at before cylinder shut down occurs? This might address an overheating issue.

Shouldn’t the ECM adjust fuel/timing to compensate this condition? As previously mentioned maybe the factory ECM on the 2012’s has a glitch that needs reflashing. Any feedback on this may give me what I’m looking for when addressing my problems to the factory Tech’s.


Next year will invest into PV or TTS, Rinehart, Big sucker, etc but for now need to follow up using the warranty sticking to what I have if possible… Thx man!

B Bop

 

[quote=B Bop;12171436]... anyone know what head temp should be at before cylinder shut down occurs? [/quote]

My head temp is set for 284* If $$$ are an issue, the first thing I would buy is the FCS Fan by Wards Parts Werks. In the 2 years I've had the fans my bike has never entered the heat management mode.

 

[QUOTE=Delta;12174214]Mine has never entered heat management mode without the fans, SoCal and Arizona riding. Yes it is enabled, no I don't know if the trigger temp was changed from default.

 

12 RGC with the 103 and a 12 RGC CVO with the 110. Run 87 octane. No pining ever. Clean the carbon out each 3,000 miles. Get 52 mpg on the 103 and 50 on the 110.

Not a thing wrong with the HD motors. It is a maintenance issue. Period.

 

I love all the guessing/misinformation/band-aids/cheapness in this thread?? The only way to properly get rid of ping/pop and have a properly running engine is a proper flash tuner and dyno tune by someone that actually knows what they doing. Sorry but late model harleys ping and run hot . They are tuned that way. The dealer and/or warranty isn't gonna fix it.

 

So, you're saying that the problem is an ongoing design defect that you have to spend your own money on to make a $20,000+++ toy run right? That's pretty fcuked up right there!

 

I got mine tuned and added a Thundermax (800 bucks!) no more pining, great throttle response and gas milage as well. Ride safe.

 

Yep! And they keep selling them with obsolete/cheap electronics...