Stage 1 in steps - where to begin?
Road Captain
Joined: Jul 2009
Posts: 532
Likes: 9
OP - you can do it piecemeal and save a lot of money if you are patient. I did the Stage 1 Air Cleaner first. Bought from Harley but waited until it was on sale. Reg price $140 plus tax. I paid $100 plus tax. I rode the bike this way for about 5000 miles before I bought exhaust. So you don't need to remap contrary to what some others have said. No real change in performance but you could tell the bike was breathing a little easier.
Then I waited until I knew exactly what exhaust I wanted and bought it for a steal. Samson 2-1 pipe with the quiet baffle. MSRP $800 from Samson, I bought off e-bay for $199 still in the box, then paid another $140 for the quiet baffle. Again no remap but I didn't ride it much because I assumed it needed a remap and I wasn't willing to risk a burned valve or piston.
I called Fuelmoto and ordered up a Power Vision paid full price for that at $499 plus shipping. Told Jamie what I had and what my future mods would be. He loaded maps for both.
Eventually added 204 cams and remapped. Bought the cams from one of the many dealerships that offer 20% off on all purchases. Hale's HD Mansfield Ohio in this case but there are alot of others that do the same thing. I get good service from them so that's who I use. Around $120 for the cams and $300 for the install from my trusted Indy.
In retrospect, and hindsight being 20/20, I should have just gutted the cat and run the stock mufflers as that would probably be quieter than what I have now. I want the performance but would still like to listen to the stereo on the highway and the Samson pipe is still too loud even with the quiet baffle.
Then I waited until I knew exactly what exhaust I wanted and bought it for a steal. Samson 2-1 pipe with the quiet baffle. MSRP $800 from Samson, I bought off e-bay for $199 still in the box, then paid another $140 for the quiet baffle. Again no remap but I didn't ride it much because I assumed it needed a remap and I wasn't willing to risk a burned valve or piston.
I called Fuelmoto and ordered up a Power Vision paid full price for that at $499 plus shipping. Told Jamie what I had and what my future mods would be. He loaded maps for both.
Eventually added 204 cams and remapped. Bought the cams from one of the many dealerships that offer 20% off on all purchases. Hale's HD Mansfield Ohio in this case but there are alot of others that do the same thing. I get good service from them so that's who I use. Around $120 for the cams and $300 for the install from my trusted Indy.
In retrospect, and hindsight being 20/20, I should have just gutted the cat and run the stock mufflers as that would probably be quieter than what I have now. I want the performance but would still like to listen to the stereo on the highway and the Samson pipe is still too loud even with the quiet baffle.
Road Captain
Joined: Feb 2012
Posts: 507
Likes: 5
From: Florida
Alrighty then....if you want to spend in segements, I suggest that you go with the mufflers first. Keep everything forward of the mufflers "as is." From there, go with a head pipe system or decatted exhaust. I prefer going with an aftermarket head pipe. But be forewarned that when you "free up" the exhaust, you'll need a non-OE intake/breather system along with a fuel management system. This upgrade segment will cost you as much, if not, more than the cost of your aftermarket head pipe system. As others have already pointed out, the whole enchalada will set you back around $1k. You can keep an eye out in the classifieds section of the forum for pre-owned systems and consider going that route to save money too. Good luck. Enjoy your new ride.
Elite HDF Member
Joined: Dec 2012
Posts: 4,177
Likes: 62
From: Michigan
If you haven't yet put some miles on your bike (800 to 1000) than select what kind of exhaust you want (2 into 1, 2 into 2, slip ons, or a mixture like V and H power duals with rinehart slip ons) than choose an air cleaner and a tuner. I suggest while your wallet is recovering you take that time to carefully select what you want so you don't wast any money on something you regret later getting.
Outstanding HDF Member
Joined: May 2008
Posts: 2,543
Likes: 19
From: Ashland Ohio
Here's the deal, fellas. If you change the exhaust first, the bike will be even MORE lean than from the factory. THE bottleneck on airflow on a Harley is the exhaust. The stock A/C outflows that exhaust by like a bunch.
So... advising or doing and exhaust without addressing the tune is NOT the way to go.
You can swap A/Cs to hearts content and NOT need a tuning device, but once anything on the exhaust side is switched?
Now, everyone will chime in that THEY did it and it is all good and runs perfect. How do YOU know? Do you have a set of wide bands to read the ACTUAL mixture out of the bike? I do.
So... advising or doing and exhaust without addressing the tune is NOT the way to go.
You can swap A/Cs to hearts content and NOT need a tuning device, but once anything on the exhaust side is switched?
Now, everyone will chime in that THEY did it and it is all good and runs perfect. How do YOU know? Do you have a set of wide bands to read the ACTUAL mixture out of the bike? I do.
Road Warrior
Joined: Jun 2010
Posts: 1,960
Likes: 1
From: Miami, FL
Here's the deal, fellas. If you change the exhaust first, the bike will be even MORE lean than from the factory. THE bottleneck on airflow on a Harley is the exhaust. The stock A/C outflows that exhaust by like a bunch.
So... advising or doing and exhaust without addressing the tune is NOT the way to go.
You can swap A/Cs to hearts content and NOT need a tuning device, but once anything on the exhaust side is switched?
Now, everyone will chime in that THEY did it and it is all good and runs perfect. How do YOU know? Do you have a set of wide bands to read the ACTUAL mixture out of the bike? I do.
So... advising or doing and exhaust without addressing the tune is NOT the way to go.
You can swap A/Cs to hearts content and NOT need a tuning device, but once anything on the exhaust side is switched?
Now, everyone will chime in that THEY did it and it is all good and runs perfect. How do YOU know? Do you have a set of wide bands to read the ACTUAL mixture out of the bike? I do.
Stellar HDF Member
Joined: Apr 2007
Posts: 3,008
Likes: 464
for my 2011 103 SG:
V&H Dresser Duals (black), and V&H Blackout Rounds - $781 shipped
Kurakyn Hi-five Mach 2 (black) air cleaner - $238 shipped
V&H Fuelpak (new LCD version) - $223 shipped
looks good
sounds good
runs good
no more engine mods planned (or needed).
V&H Dresser Duals (black), and V&H Blackout Rounds - $781 shipped
Kurakyn Hi-five Mach 2 (black) air cleaner - $238 shipped
V&H Fuelpak (new LCD version) - $223 shipped
looks good
sounds good
runs good
no more engine mods planned (or needed).
Outstanding HDF Member
Joined: Nov 2008
Posts: 2,246
Likes: 19
From: Cypress, TX
If you haven't yet put some miles on your bike (800 to 1000) than select what kind of exhaust you want (2 into 1, 2 into 2, slip ons, or a mixture like V and H power duals with rinehart slip ons) than choose an air cleaner and a tuner. I suggest while your wallet is recovering you take that time to carefully select what you want so you don't wast any money on something you regret later getting.
Ultimate HDF Member
Joined: Mar 2012
Posts: 6,129
Likes: 143
From: Santa Cruz
I'm gonna be the odd one but there is more performance in a tune than pipe or A/C. I'd recommend a power vision from fuel-moto with proper maps for what ya plan. Then a A/C. If don't have a heat problem from the cat there is no reason to change the header for a stage 1, so slip-ons of your choice would be last. Of course that doesn't get ya the "loud pipes save lives" thing first.
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