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hard starting when using "Factory Approved" methodd
Hello; I have a 2010 Ultra with 16,500 miles.
Starting about 6 weeks ago, it started to take 2 or 3 tries before it would fire, when I used the method reccomended by the factory (turn **** to on.....wait until engine and security lights go out and fuel pump pressurizes(sp), then hit starter button).
However, if I hit the starter button immediately after turning the **** to on, It fires right up. I think there might be a leaking injector. Is that possible?
I have an 08 and a PC V. I was told with the PC to not wait but to immediately hit the starter before it had all come up. Has worked for the past 3 years but of course yours may differ.
Hello; I have a 2010 Ultra with 16,500 miles.
Starting about 6 weeks ago, it started to take 2 or 3 tries before it would fire, when I used the method reccomended by the factory (turn **** to on.....wait until engine and security lights go out and fuel pump pressurizes(sp), then hit starter button).
However, if I hit the starter button immediately after turning the **** to on, It fires right up. I think there might be a leaking injector. Is that possible?
Thanks for any and all replies.........
I too would like to know if you have a Power Commander on the bike.
As the others I have a PCV (5) on my bike I turn the key switch, flip the run button and immediately hit the starter button and it fires every time. If I do the Harley recommended routine hard starts every time.
This is a problem that the power commanders have had since inception. The only drawback to 'not waiting' is if you immediately grab a gear and take off, your fuel pressure may not be fully primed and an engine stall may occur. I don't think any harm is to be done either way, but yes, the power commander is the culprit here...
I had the same problem with my kawi. it had a PCIII on it as well. I haven't had that problem with my 04 and I installed a PCIII last week. I use the HD method and she fire right up.
when I used the method reccomended by the factory (turn **** to on.....wait until engine and security lights go out and fuel pump pressurizes(sp), then hit starter button).
actually, this is not the 'factory recommended' method to start. if you read your owners manual, it simply says that the cel light will remain lit for app 4 seconds after turning on the run switch. you do not have to wait. regardless of what the salesman tells you (you don't believe anything else he says, why do you believe that?)
all you really have to do is give it just a second after hitting the run switch for the fuel system to pressurize, then hit the start button.
I have a 2010 Limited and it starts better to hit the starter button as soon as you turn it on. It worked better stock, with PCV, and PV. With the power vision I did take away some of the cranking fuel and it seemed to help if you do wait on the lights to go out. Also have discovered that if you install cams such as Woods it helps greatly on hot starts to reduce the cranking fuel by about half. Haven't tried it on 255 cams yet, but will probably work. I have reduced on 259E and 204 and it worked. You had to crack the throttle on both of them to get it to crank when hot.
Agreed. My bone stock '12 FLHR started on first rotation if I just turned ignition, hit run, then start; but took two to three rotations if I waited for the fuel pump to finish its cycle. We'll see how it works after my MGS/PV tune gets installed/loaded. That is... if it ever stops snowing in Anchorage...
Yes...I have the Power Commander V. However, I've had the PC V on for nearly 3 years, and this problem cropped up just in the last 5 or 6 months.
It looks like I should just hit the starter button as soon as I turn the **** to on, as recommended in the replies.
Thanks to all for the insight......
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