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Hate throttle by wire

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Old May 15, 2013 | 12:31 PM
  #61  
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I recently picked up a '13 street glide and can definitely notice a difference when compared to the '05 fatboy. I don't really notice it much when decelerating but it's definitely very touchy when starting off, like nothing is there then she just takes off. I figured it'll just take some seat time to get used to, it's not something that overly concerns me but it is noticeable.
 
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Old May 15, 2013 | 02:25 PM
  #62  
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It's not just motorcycles, everything out there has either gone or is going to TBW. Guess we just get use to it. As for my 2010, I have absolutely no complaints.
 
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Old May 15, 2013 | 07:54 PM
  #63  
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Originally Posted by dog06bob
I have the SE pro tuner on the bike. Does any one know if you can change the map if you buy the cable? Harley tech said no. Thats why I had it dynoed. Why sell the link cable then? Sounds like guys on here are changing maps. I know PC and other tuners you can.
Harley tech is not technicaly wrong, you can't do it with just the cable kit, you need the software and a laptop also!

Here is what you need:

Screamin' Eagle Tuner Cable Kit 32184-08A
ND-CD ROM,SUPER TUNER,S.E. PRO 32111-12
SUPER TUNER DVD TRAINING DISC 32101-10
 
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Old May 16, 2013 | 06:00 AM
  #64  
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Originally Posted by pswomack
Harley tech is not technicaly wrong, you can't do it with just the cable kit, you need the software and a laptop also!

Here is what you need:

Screamin' Eagle Tuner Cable Kit 32184-08A
ND-CD ROM,SUPER TUNER,S.E. PRO 32111-12
SUPER TUNER DVD TRAINING DISC 32101-10
Thanks for the info!
 
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Old May 16, 2013 | 09:39 AM
  #65  
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Originally Posted by unclejay
- The one-cylinder idle feature on the newer engines may be affecting start-roll response - try shutting it off (see owner manual)
Now that is one thing I had noticed - the stutter when rolling out with EITMS active...you can definitely hear and feel when this kicks in (not objectionable, but noticeable) and it caught me off guard a few times when I first got my SG. I just got in the habit of blipping the throttle once just before rolling out - that gets the second cylinder back in the game and smooths out your starts.
 
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Old May 16, 2013 | 10:48 AM
  #66  
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Throttle by wire sucks in my opinion. I hated it since my first TBW bike, a '10 FLHX.

Twitchy throttle, no friction, tension by just a spring. Good way to make my hand cramp up.

This is especially noticeable when switching from my bagger to my '11 FXDB. Both bikes had motor work. Both bikes had good, crisp dyno tunes.

The response on the cable bike was near telepathic. Additionally, the friction provided by the throttle cables smooth out throttle inputs, and also makes it easier to maintain a speed.

Riding over bumpy California roads on the bagger sucks, as the bumps cause unwanted throttle inputs at times. I use cruise all the time now even around town and slow roads to keep the throttle steady.

And for all y'all saying it's the tune, it's the tuner, you're incorrect. I tried using the stock throttle table, 1:1 throttle table, and modifying the throttle table. No matter what, it NEVER felt as good as the cable throttle.

The only benefit I see compared to the older style is that your throttle grip doesn't turn when the cruise is adjusting the throttle. From Harley's standpoint, they're also saving a little on warranty costs I'm sure, as you can't whack the throttle in big gears and pound the crank until it scissors.

Although, a bad downshift is enough to twist a crank...

Oh, and my 2013's throttle is just as crappy as the 2010. And it's still stock.
 

Last edited by JCleary; May 16, 2013 at 10:50 AM.
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Old Jun 11, 2013 | 09:37 PM
  #67  
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Originally Posted by ke5rbd
The stage 1 will increase the timing slightly off idle and will help some. With a PV you can change your off idle timing to 24 degrees and increase the fuel 5% or so and you won't believe the difference. If you are running a PCV add 6 degrees in this same area and put about 8% fuel in the 750 to 1250 rpm area. Makes a huge difference. Harley runs very conservative timing except above 3000 rpms in the mid to low area. The stage 1 only adds 1 1/2degrees in this area and only adds 5 to 9% fuel in the wide open area from 2500 to 5000.
I am dealing with the same off idle hesitation issues right now. I have the PCV, redshift 577 cams, bassani 2-1 exhaust, SE A/C. I have a tuner working on it, bike runs out great, except for the initial stumble off idle. He has been playing with low RPM timing and fuel and has made it better, but still not good enough. I see here you have some recommendations for fuel and timing for PCV's to resolve this somewhat. my questions:

Where exactly do I need to add the 6 degrees of timing? (What rpm/throttle%)?

You still think that 8% fuel from 750 to 1250 rpm is still appropriate for my setup?

Do any of these values need to be adjusted due to my cam selection?
 
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Old Jun 11, 2013 | 10:58 PM
  #68  
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Originally Posted by JBarber
I am dealing with the same off idle hesitation issues right now. I have the PCV, redshift 577 cams, bassani 2-1 exhaust, SE A/C. I have a tuner working on it, bike runs out great, except for the
initial stumble off idle. He has been playing with low RPM timing and fuel and has made it better, but still not good enough. I see here you have some recommendations for fuel and timing for PCV's to resolve this somewhat. my questions:

Where exactly do I need to add the 6 degrees of timing? (What rpm/throttle%)?

You still think that 8% fuel from 750 to 1250 rpm is still appropriate for my setup?

Do any of these values need to be adjusted due to my cam selection?
Try this one. Hopefully you have the stock map. The stage one will give too much timing with this one. The fuel will be ok. I looked at specs on the Red Stick 577 and it is pretty radical with a 47 overlap. Usually 40 to 42 would be a max for basically stock bike. You will actually need 10.5 to 1 compression and possible a gearing change to get rid of that hesitation. This map should help some. I don't know what bike you have, but the lighter the better.
 
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Old Jun 11, 2013 | 11:18 PM
  #69  
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Originally Posted by ke5rbd
Try this one. Hopefully you have the stock map. The stage one will give too much timing with this one. The fuel will be ok. I looked at specs on the Red Stick 577 and it is pretty radical with a 47 overlap. Usually 40 to 42 would be a max for basically stock bike. You will actually need 10.5 to 1 compression and possible a gearing change to get rid of that hesitation. This map should help some. I don't know what bike you have, but the lighter the better.
I do have a stock map. I decided on the cams at the recommendation of shop doing the work, probably too much from the sounds of it.(they pull great at 95 hp and 98ft lbs on the dyno) just need to get the stumble a little better to be happy. It only stumbles or hesitates when you blip the throttle rather quickly from a warm idle. Get it above 1000-1100 rims and it doesn't miss a beat. Bike is a 2011 street glide, (not so light). Also I'm in Fort Collins colorado, so I don't know how much the elevation effects your recommendation. Let me know if you have any other recommendations.
 
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Old Jun 11, 2013 | 11:43 PM
  #70  
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hummm.... I feel no difference.... could be the bike could be me ...I am happy !
 
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