I was able to open up the tune. I will take it to my tuner today and see what we can get figured out.

I did a little more research on the cam last night...I think I'm going to talk to the shop today about having my heads milled down and putting a thinner headgasket in so I can get up to 10.5 to 1 compression. Hopefully that helps it even more. May not happen immediately, but it looks like thats the very least I need to do to get those cams working like they should. I very much appreciate your quick response and the Tune. Do you just do this on your own, or do you work at a shop? You obviously know your stuff and have ready access to a database of information.

 

I have been tuning and working on engines for many years 45 years or so. I am retired and hang around our local shop. I have spent many hours on computer with PCV, PV, SEPST, TTS and PC3 software and programs. I have also built several excel spread sheets to compare and convert from Pv to PCV. Also built spreadsheets to compare cams. I have probably installed and tuned atleast 20 tuners over the last 3 years. Stock to TW 888 to 10.5 compression. It has been very gratifying.
The Harley engine is basically a 2 cylinder hemi engine. Where I keep having to do reality checks is the rpms involved. I drag raced for 35 years and worked on everything from 392 hemi's to 426 hemi's and small block chevy's and Ford's. They all had there differences but they were operating in the 7 to 9 thousand RPM range and most were carbed. They had cams in the .600 to .800 lift range. We didn't have to work much on the low rpm range as we were leaving the line at 5000+ rpms. All together different story with the Harley. They are relatively stock rpm ranges as most stock V8 would turn 6000 rpms. What I have to keep in mind we are working with street motors very similar to the muscle car era motors. The intake runners on the harley are only 3 or 4 inches long. On a street car motor they are 12 inches and longer. This effects the low end torque greatly. I haven't looked but I suspect the Vrod has a longer intake system.

 

the way DBW decelerates so abruptly is probably why some have noticed some clanking in the drive train.

 

I've had both and I haven't noticed any problems like you are describing on my 2009 Road Glide in fact comparing to the two different types, both were the same and the only difference to me was not seeing the extra cables on the handle bars. Maybe, you might have a problem with the connection or something?

 

There are people who've had problems with binding, stretched or broken cables or poor connections at the top and bottom of the cable. TBW eliminates all of these and is (generally speaking) more reliable than cable-driven systems. It also allows you to incorporate cruise control and a variety of engine management solutions.

So far, so good - but although TBW is on the whole more reliable/flexible than cables, if a unit fails (which is pretty rare) there is no roadside fix and the failure is usually much less repairable. Overall, the benefits outweigh the disadvantages (YMMV).

 

You can also go into the program and control how much the throttle opens up per a give throttle movement and tame the throttle down. You can't do this with a PCV just the flash programmers and not sure if all will do it. I know PV will.

 

I came from a '07 Venture to a '13 Road King and have noticed no issues going from the cables to the TBW system. So far so good for me. And the cruise works much better, imho, with the TBW system.

 

That is all true, but the reason we see it on Harleys today is for the tuning required to meet EPA demands. It's easier (much cheaper) to map an engine to be more efficient than redesign a new engine to get the same performance.

Beary

 

06 EGC to a 2013 FLHTK and I don't have this problem mabe thay fixed it?

 

Because you can then integrate it more fully in to the ECM process and enoy auxiliary benefits such as a brilliant (and safe...er) cruise control