Another pullback handlebar thread-patience please!
I am looking for a set of handlebars for my '11 Street Glide that a) brings my hands back as close to me as possible b)keeps them as low or lower than stock and c) are not overly wide as I want to keep my hands behind the fairing and keep the fairing mirrors. The most comfortable bike I ever rode was my Road King with the Wild Ones 508's. They were almost like beach bars and I loved my hands back and low and I didn't mind the "wheel barrel" feel that some people don't. I guess I am the antithesis of the guys who love their ape hangers. Any suggestions and pictures would be greatly appreciated.
You can read all the handlebar threads until you are blue in the face and it will only get you confused because everyone likes something different. The reason I know is I have been reading them all for 2 weeks. I finally figured out you just have to try something close to what you want and go from there. If they don't work you try something different.
All that said I went ahead and started cheap and bought the Harley pullback bars today. I went ahead and bought the 38788-06c clutch cable and I am installing it also. Yes, you can reroute the stock cable but why not do it right.
I have the handlebars on and sitting one the bike while on the lift they feel good but you really can't tell until you take a ride. I should finish tomorrow after I pick up a new gasket for the clutch cover. The cable I mentioned above is +4 and fits perfect where the stock cable was.
Now that I have been through this if I don't like the handlebars I feel I could install a different set in a couple of hours or less. The first time takes longer.
If another 2 inches is all you need I don't think you can beat the Harley pullbacks. The width at the end of the bars is the same as stock. Do it right and change the clutch cable. It' only $40 plus a gasket and some oil.
I'll report back after I take a ride in the next day or so but remember it will just be what I think. What I am trying to say is there are an equal amount of people out there that like every bar made so in the end you just have to try one. That my 2 cents.
Good luck in whatever you decide.
All that said I went ahead and started cheap and bought the Harley pullback bars today. I went ahead and bought the 38788-06c clutch cable and I am installing it also. Yes, you can reroute the stock cable but why not do it right.
I have the handlebars on and sitting one the bike while on the lift they feel good but you really can't tell until you take a ride. I should finish tomorrow after I pick up a new gasket for the clutch cover. The cable I mentioned above is +4 and fits perfect where the stock cable was.
Now that I have been through this if I don't like the handlebars I feel I could install a different set in a couple of hours or less. The first time takes longer.
If another 2 inches is all you need I don't think you can beat the Harley pullbacks. The width at the end of the bars is the same as stock. Do it right and change the clutch cable. It' only $40 plus a gasket and some oil.
I'll report back after I take a ride in the next day or so but remember it will just be what I think. What I am trying to say is there are an equal amount of people out there that like every bar made so in the end you just have to try one. That my 2 cents.
Good luck in whatever you decide.
Last edited by PTAG; Jun 25, 2013 at 10:30 PM.
Man O' man I wish all handlebar manufacturers would publish side profiles of their bars installed on the various bikes. It would be easy to photoshop them in place without having to actually install them. That way the customer could see where the bars that they need will be in the placement of things. I sat on my bike with my eyes closed and while placing my hands in the air where I need them, had my daughter snap a pic. Now with having that photo I could easily compare it, if only the manufacturers would show their products scaled onto the various bikes.
You can read all the handlebar threads until you are blue in the face and it will only get you confused because everyone likes something different. The reason I know is I have been reading them all for 2 weeks. I finally figured out you just have to try something close to what you want and go from there. If they don't work you try something different.
All that said I went ahead and started cheap and bought the Harley pullback bars today. I went ahead and bought the 38788-06c clutch cable and I am installing it also. Yes, you can reroute the stock cable but why not do it right.
I have the handlebars on and sitting one the bike while on the lift they feel good but you really can't tell until you take a ride. I should finish tomorrow after I pick up a new gasket for the clutch cover. The cable I mentioned above is +4 and fits perfect where the stock cable was.
Now that I have been through this if I don't like the handlebars I feel I could install a different set in a couple of hours or less. The first time takes longer.
If another 2 inches is all you need I don't think you can beat the Harley pullbacks. The width at the end of the bars is the same as stock. Do it right and change the clutch cable. It' only $40 plus a gasket and some oil.
I'll report back after I take a ride in the next day or so but remember it will just be what I think. What I am trying to say is there are an equal amount of people out there that like every bar made so in the end you just have to try one. That my 2 cents.
Good luck in whatever you decide.
All that said I went ahead and started cheap and bought the Harley pullback bars today. I went ahead and bought the 38788-06c clutch cable and I am installing it also. Yes, you can reroute the stock cable but why not do it right.
I have the handlebars on and sitting one the bike while on the lift they feel good but you really can't tell until you take a ride. I should finish tomorrow after I pick up a new gasket for the clutch cover. The cable I mentioned above is +4 and fits perfect where the stock cable was.
Now that I have been through this if I don't like the handlebars I feel I could install a different set in a couple of hours or less. The first time takes longer.
If another 2 inches is all you need I don't think you can beat the Harley pullbacks. The width at the end of the bars is the same as stock. Do it right and change the clutch cable. It' only $40 plus a gasket and some oil.
I'll report back after I take a ride in the next day or so but remember it will just be what I think. What I am trying to say is there are an equal amount of people out there that like every bar made so in the end you just have to try one. That my 2 cents.
Good luck in whatever you decide.
I would definitely appreciate some feedback. I have been leaning toward what you are going with. I also talked to the development guy at Chubby's. He says he is presently working on a set of bars like I an looking for. Believe me, I have done tons of research here and everywhere else. I guess I was hoping that someone knows of a set of bars that I have never heard of. Thanks!
Well I got the bars on and the bike back to the point where I could ride it and adjust the them. The interesting thing is that they kind of ended up at the same place adjustment wise as the stock bars. Meaning that if you lock the bars left or right my controls on the handlebars were parallel to the tank. I had the stocks about as low as they would go. These, especially because of the angle of the bars, ended up the exact same way. I didn't plan it they way that is just how it was most comfortable.
Here are my observations: The bars are right where they need to be for a touring bike. I only rode the bike about an hour (without the front of the faring and the radio not installed) around the neighborhood. The bars felt great riding along and on normal turns. Arms are really bent like I wanted. Where it felt a little weird was when I tried to do some tight circles in the street with the bars locked to either side. My elbow ended up at my side parallel to my body and it just seamed to make me feel a little uneasy. I think I will get use to it but probably won't enter any police rodeo's. But then again I wasn't worth a damn at tight turns before I did the bars
Bottom line is, from your description, I think these bars are exactly what you are looking for. All I have left to do is put the outter faring, windshield, and bags back on and I am done. That's tomorrow. Too hot here in Texas to stay in the garage any longer that a few hours at a time.From the install:
- If I had it to do again I would probably use the stock clutch cable. I am not sure it was worth the effort to put in the longer. You have to drain the transmission, run the new cable, install a new gasket, put it all back together, and refill the transmission. The bolts at the bottom of the clutch cover are a bear to get to without dropping the headers but I got it done. I believe the stock cable would work fine if rerouted as others have said.
- The radio is a pain to put back in because the front screws are so hard to get to if you have big hands. I gave up a few times and finially got them in without asking the wife to help. There is a youtube video that shows how to get to the bar screws by moving the whole faring forward without removing the radio. I might consider that if I had it to do again but not sure.
- I could not get my left grip off so had to buy a new set off ebay. I have an old junker on there now to get me by until the new ones get here.
-I left the wires on the outside of the bars.
What did it cost:
Bars and clutch cable $205 out the door on the first trip. Second trip was for the gasket, O-rings, and a couple of new screws for the handlebar controls; $20 this trip. Yes, I lost a couple of screws somewhere in the process. I already had the oil so didn't have to buy that. New Kurakyn grips were $69 shipped off ebay. So for around $300 and some time you can get it done. Take away the clutch cable and now you are at $205 or so.
It does take some time and some hard work. The clutch cable swap really adds a lot of time to the whole deal.
One last thing I will mention is before I installed the bars I bought one of the new stock lower seats off ebay from a 2012 bike. That made a big difference in the ride. I am 5' 10" and around 240 and the difference in the crotch area made a big difference. Harley has trimmed the seat in the front area and I like it. It also got my feet flat on the ground in tennis shoes. This again is why to have to weigh out all the opinions you read about bars. Guys have also made other changes like seats that have input to their results that they may not state.
Sorry for such a long post but I wanted to try and give you all I knew. I am sure I forgot something so feel free to ask away or PM me if you have any other questions.
Good luck in whatever you decide to do.
I put on the Harley bars too and I love them. The thing to remember about any bar you go with is that it will take some miles to really get used to them. Like PTAG said, tight turns were a little odd at first. I've now had them for a couple of years and can't imagine going back to the stockers.
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Well I got the bars on and the bike back to the point where I could ride it and adjust the them. The interesting thing is that they kind of ended up at the same place adjustment wise as the stock bars. Meaning that if you lock the bars left or right my controls on the handlebars were parallel to the tank. I had the stocks about as low as they would go. These, especially because of the angle of the bars, ended up the exact same way. I didn't plan it they way that is just how it was most comfortable.
Here are my observations: The bars are right where they need to be for a touring bike. I only rode the bike about an hour (without the front of the faring and the radio not installed) around the neighborhood. The bars felt great riding along and on normal turns. Arms are really bent like I wanted. Where it felt a little weird was when I tried to do some tight circles in the street with the bars locked to either side. My elbow ended up at my side parallel to my body and it just seamed to make me feel a little uneasy. I think I will get use to it but probably won't enter any police rodeo's. But then again I wasn't worth a damn at tight turns before I did the bars
Bottom line is, from your description, I think these bars are exactly what you are looking for. All I have left to do is put the outter faring, windshield, and bags back on and I am done. That's tomorrow. Too hot here in Texas to stay in the garage any longer that a few hours at a time.
From the install:
- If I had it to do again I would probably use the stock clutch cable. I am not sure it was worth the effort to put in the longer. You have to drain the transmission, run the new cable, install a new gasket, put it all back together, and refill the transmission. The bolts at the bottom of the clutch cover are a bear to get to without dropping the headers but I got it done. I believe the stock cable would work fine if rerouted as others have said.
- The radio is a pain to put back in because the front screws are so hard to get to if you have big hands. I gave up a few times and finially got them in without asking the wife to help. There is a youtube video that shows how to get to the bar screws by moving the whole faring forward without removing the radio. I might consider that if I had it to do again but not sure.
- I could not get my left grip off so had to buy a new set off ebay. I have an old junker on there now to get me by until the new ones get here.
-I left the wires on the outside of the bars.
What did it cost:
Bars and clutch cable $205 out the door on the first trip. Second trip was for the gasket, O-rings, and a couple of new screws for the handlebar controls; $20 this trip. Yes, I lost a couple of screws somewhere in the process. I already had the oil so didn't have to buy that. New Kurakyn grips were $69 shipped off ebay. So for around $300 and some time you can get it done. Take away the clutch cable and now you are at $205 or so.
It does take some time and some hard work. The clutch cable swap really adds a lot of time to the whole deal.
One last thing I will mention is before I installed the bars I bought one of the new stock lower seats off ebay from a 2012 bike. That made a big difference in the ride. I am 5' 10" and around 240 and the difference in the crotch area made a big difference. Harley has trimmed the seat in the front area and I like it. It also got my feet flat on the ground in tennis shoes. This again is why to have to weigh out all the opinions you read about bars. Guys have also made other changes like seats that have input to their results that they may not state.
Sorry for such a long post but I wanted to try and give you all I knew. I am sure I forgot something so feel free to ask away or PM me if you have any other questions.
Good luck in whatever you decide to do.
Here are my observations: The bars are right where they need to be for a touring bike. I only rode the bike about an hour (without the front of the faring and the radio not installed) around the neighborhood. The bars felt great riding along and on normal turns. Arms are really bent like I wanted. Where it felt a little weird was when I tried to do some tight circles in the street with the bars locked to either side. My elbow ended up at my side parallel to my body and it just seamed to make me feel a little uneasy. I think I will get use to it but probably won't enter any police rodeo's. But then again I wasn't worth a damn at tight turns before I did the bars
Bottom line is, from your description, I think these bars are exactly what you are looking for. All I have left to do is put the outter faring, windshield, and bags back on and I am done. That's tomorrow. Too hot here in Texas to stay in the garage any longer that a few hours at a time.From the install:
- If I had it to do again I would probably use the stock clutch cable. I am not sure it was worth the effort to put in the longer. You have to drain the transmission, run the new cable, install a new gasket, put it all back together, and refill the transmission. The bolts at the bottom of the clutch cover are a bear to get to without dropping the headers but I got it done. I believe the stock cable would work fine if rerouted as others have said.
- The radio is a pain to put back in because the front screws are so hard to get to if you have big hands. I gave up a few times and finially got them in without asking the wife to help. There is a youtube video that shows how to get to the bar screws by moving the whole faring forward without removing the radio. I might consider that if I had it to do again but not sure.
- I could not get my left grip off so had to buy a new set off ebay. I have an old junker on there now to get me by until the new ones get here.
-I left the wires on the outside of the bars.
What did it cost:
Bars and clutch cable $205 out the door on the first trip. Second trip was for the gasket, O-rings, and a couple of new screws for the handlebar controls; $20 this trip. Yes, I lost a couple of screws somewhere in the process. I already had the oil so didn't have to buy that. New Kurakyn grips were $69 shipped off ebay. So for around $300 and some time you can get it done. Take away the clutch cable and now you are at $205 or so.
It does take some time and some hard work. The clutch cable swap really adds a lot of time to the whole deal.
One last thing I will mention is before I installed the bars I bought one of the new stock lower seats off ebay from a 2012 bike. That made a big difference in the ride. I am 5' 10" and around 240 and the difference in the crotch area made a big difference. Harley has trimmed the seat in the front area and I like it. It also got my feet flat on the ground in tennis shoes. This again is why to have to weigh out all the opinions you read about bars. Guys have also made other changes like seats that have input to their results that they may not state.
Sorry for such a long post but I wanted to try and give you all I knew. I am sure I forgot something so feel free to ask away or PM me if you have any other questions.
Good luck in whatever you decide to do.
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