2010 vibration
Road Warrior
Joined: May 2013
Posts: 1,430
Likes: 55
From: Florida
Subscribed, Been chasing that buzzing vibration for at least 8 months now,Before that there was none. I've tried tuning it out with my PV,by pulling some timing,no good.Seems to be the worst between 2-3k rpm. I'm on my second set of tires since buying a new set of Dunlops back in Nov. Due to bolt stuck in rear,Running a Michelin Com II now. and the new Dunlop on the front was splitting sidewall at 3k. Had to put another Dunlop on front or pay for another Mich.I just don'f feel it in the bars or front end,Only footboards. Just had 15k service done, Comp was ok,Tried to get em to replace it anyway, Nope ;p .I modified my headers to mount on the stock locations. Replaced all the heatshield clamps with heavier marine grade clamps. No contact with frame.(couple photo's in an album if interested)Tightened/torqued every nut n bolt possible. On the 24th of this month I get an extra MVP discount so I'm gonna buy a new set of footboard inserts, The right one does seen to be worn more on the outside due to the way I rest my heel on it.And I feel it more on the right.(would'nt that be sick) My OL says she doesn't feel it at all on the passenger footboards,and theyr'e rigid not isolated like riders.If that don't help I may try new front motormounts. Like the OP when I disengauge clutch it dissapears. Don' know how or where it's transfering to frame or wth to try next. I'll be keeping an eye on this thread for ideas, Or I'll let y'all know if I solve it.
Tourer
Joined: Jul 2010
Posts: 400
Likes: 2
From: Central WI
Blackjeep,
A while ago (week?) you had posted this,,,,
"Well... Embarassed to say i found my vibration. Not compensator, not inner primary bearing, not motor mounts, not crank runout... Kick stand rubber snubber fell out.. Kickstand touching primary going down highway= vibration. Lol. At least it was cheap!"
I have sold 2 2013 SGs due to this vibration driving me NUTTS!! I started a few new SGs at the dealership.....all the same.
This is what I don't get.....when Im cruising at 2400 rpms (normal 55 mph rpms in 5th), my floorboards and hard rear bags are BUZZING like crazy....wife even commented on how it bothered her too.
Something aint right here, and I cant believe more people aren't commenting on it.
My guess is, most just think a HD is supposed to BUZZ, well there NOT. What they are known for is major vibration at idle, then a smooth as silk (like my 10 and 11 Ultras) ride at speed. Heck, I couldn't even see out my mirrors......I could see there was a car behind me, but no way in hell could I tell you what the plate # was (I could read plate #s fine on Ultras).
If someone could fix the issue, Id go buy another new SG right now......till then, I'll take the truck.
A while ago (week?) you had posted this,,,,
"Well... Embarassed to say i found my vibration. Not compensator, not inner primary bearing, not motor mounts, not crank runout... Kick stand rubber snubber fell out.. Kickstand touching primary going down highway= vibration. Lol. At least it was cheap!"
I have sold 2 2013 SGs due to this vibration driving me NUTTS!! I started a few new SGs at the dealership.....all the same.
This is what I don't get.....when Im cruising at 2400 rpms (normal 55 mph rpms in 5th), my floorboards and hard rear bags are BUZZING like crazy....wife even commented on how it bothered her too.
Something aint right here, and I cant believe more people aren't commenting on it.
My guess is, most just think a HD is supposed to BUZZ, well there NOT. What they are known for is major vibration at idle, then a smooth as silk (like my 10 and 11 Ultras) ride at speed. Heck, I couldn't even see out my mirrors......I could see there was a car behind me, but no way in hell could I tell you what the plate # was (I could read plate #s fine on Ultras).
If someone could fix the issue, Id go buy another new SG right now......till then, I'll take the truck.
Supporter
Joined: Mar 2008
Posts: 4,419
Likes: 90
From: Vermont
My 2010 is as smooth as glass! At idle it looks like one of those hardware store paint shakers but as soon as I come off idle, at all RPMs and speed its as smooth as silk. Nothing buzzy or vibrating? When I initially changed my exhaust I had a vibration around 2500-3000RPM but it wasn't there before I changed exhaust head pipe and added the dual. So I loosened the exhaust except for the muffler clamps and head bolts, started it and let it idle for a minute then tightened everything back down and it was all smooth again. Pretty much stock except the added dual exhaust, it came with single, a stage 1 air cleaner and a PVC. I think most of the vibration people get is of their own doing in most cases.
Tourer
Joined: Jul 2010
Posts: 400
Likes: 2
From: Central WI
My 2010 is as smooth as glass! At idle it looks like one of those hardware store paint shakers but as soon as I come off idle, at all RPMs and speed its as smooth as silk. Nothing buzzy or vibrating? When I initially changed my exhaust I had a vibration around 2500-3000RPM but it wasn't there before I changed exhaust head pipe and added the dual. So I loosened the exhaust except for the muffler clamps and head bolts, started it and let it idle for a minute then tightened everything back down and it was all smooth again. Pretty much stock except the added dual exhaust, it came with single, a stage 1 air cleaner and a PVC. I think most of the vibration people get is of their own doing in most cases.
The buzz Im feeling (have felt) is on bone stock bikes. Again, Im ok with vibration (Harleys vibrate), Im NOT ok with the BUZZZZ we are feeling (Harleys are not supposed to BUZZ at cruising RPMs).
Road Warrior
Joined: May 2013
Posts: 1,430
Likes: 55
From: Florida
My 2010 is as smooth as glass! At idle it looks like one of those hardware store paint shakers but as soon as I come off idle, at all RPMs and speed its as smooth as silk. Nothing buzzy or vibrating? When I initially changed my exhaust I had a vibration around 2500-3000RPM but it wasn't there before I changed exhaust head pipe and added the dual. So I loosened the exhaust except for the muffler clamps and head bolts, started it and let it idle for a minute then tightened everything back down and it was all smooth again. Pretty much stock except the added dual exhaust, it came with single, a stage 1 air cleaner and a PVC. I think most of the vibration people get is of their own doing in most cases.
Yea Ive tried that, Had complete exhaust off twice,Didn't like the S&S hanger bracket. It was chewing up the rubber grommets pretty quick 1st and 2nd pair.Due to normal engine idle vibration. So I welded a bracket to inside of header and bolted it solid to the side of tranny just like stock and fabricated a hanger for the rear mount on tranny solid as a rock. (see photo's in my album) Had to be sure it wasn't my pipes. or heat shields hence the heavy duty clamps. Went out and checked my kickstand and shift linkage after catching up on this thread.It's still possible it may be the little bit of play in the rear brake pedal/master cyl linkage.It is connected to frame right under right footboard. But, I have an extended reach pedal with a Zerk fitting. I keep it pumped and packed full of high temp red sticky grease. And it doesn't go away if I rest my toe on the brake pedal. I don't recall the day I first noticed it,It just kinda built up over the last 2k miles. a buzzing vibration like a BIG loose washer, seems like it should be obvious but damn if I can find it. Thats why Im going to replace footboard inserts next and hope. Oh btw I removed that silly bell my OL got me first thing.
Thread Starter
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Tourer
Joined: Oct 2010
Posts: 444
Likes: 166
Seems like there is a bunch of us struggling with this vibe. Im sure its gonna be something easy once we figure it out. Im going to try loosening my exhaust mount at tranny and running it to see if there is any change. I think thats an interesting idea. Im sure our vibes are from something binding so thats as good an idea as any. Without having studied lower motor mount is it possible on new frames to loosen it as well... Kind of let run and settle in and then re-torque???
Supporter
Joined: Mar 2008
Posts: 4,419
Likes: 90
From: Vermont
Something to look at that I have seen three times, my bike included, is the top front engine stabilizer. Put a wrench on it and it seems tight as can be. However, watch it when it runs and you might see it moving slightly right at the point where the stabilizer is bolted to the frame. Mine eventually started to make a noise as well but not initially. This was when the bike was brand new. It took some time to find, but now have seen it more than once. Whats happening is the threaded hole in the frame is either full of hardened powder coat or the threads are not cut quite deep enough. Not sure which, but either way, remove the bolt then run a tap into the hole then re-torque the bolt and that tightened the stabilizer where it was suppose to be, very tight against the frame with NO movement between frame connection point and stabilizer . Don't take it for granted that because you cannot turn that bolt in further, that its tight against the frame. Its worth a look cause that definitely causes a buzzy feeling.
Last edited by Rickr01; Aug 15, 2013 at 04:08 PM.
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Grand HDF Member
Joined: Jun 2007
Posts: 4,598
Likes: 421
From: Lansing mi
Interesting.
I have a 11 King with around 22000 miles with stage-1 stock header, no cat with Bassoni megaphone slip-ons and after I'm off idle, nice and smooth and never feel a buzz. From my bike that is.
I have a 11 King with around 22000 miles with stage-1 stock header, no cat with Bassoni megaphone slip-ons and after I'm off idle, nice and smooth and never feel a buzz. From my bike that is.