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My 12 FLHTCU developed a low rpm buzz in the footboards after I swapped out the header for another stock cat-less header. Still haven't found the problem. It smooths out once I get up to speed, but it's very annoying while going slow. It wasn't there before I changed out the header.
I'll need a bigger Torx bit to use a ratchet on that bolt. that suckers tight and/or siezed, The hole goes all the way through the frame and theres rust on the backside of hole.my clutch cable goes right over it between frame and crashbar so I hadnt seen that. But that 90 degree dogbone can rotate back and forth a bit on the ball and socket. Will inspect that further tomorrow. Heh I wanted a chrome one anyway,maybe time to get one.
Last edited by Smokey Stover; Aug 15, 2013 at 08:21 PM.
Reason: spellin
I wonder if those heim joints could have enough slop to cause problems?
I doubt it, the fit is pretty good.
Just be aware that if you remove that bolt from the frame, the top of the engine WILL move a bit to the left. You will have to pry the engine back into alignment before you can get that bolt started to torque it into position. I know this because I removed the stock stabilizer and replaced it with the billet and chrome hardware. I used a wooden 2x2 against the fins, per the HD instructions, to influence the engine back into place. Actually my wife did because I needed to be able to start the bolt and screw it in nicely before she could let off of the pressure.
One final thought...given the engine pressure against this stabilizer which transfers to the bolt through the frame, there is no way you will know if the bolt is loose or not unless you put a wrench to it. It wont be turnable with fingers even if it is loose.
Last edited by Lowcountry Joe; Aug 15, 2013 at 07:22 PM.
I've had a 1x3 wedged in between frame and that bracket on the head(didn't want to risk fins) just to see how much the motor would move in a front to back up/down axis wondering how much my front motor mounts would allow,or if they were sagging,about an inch was all I could get so I'm thinking they're ok. Oh and oddly enough the buzzing seems to lesson as the motor reaches operating temps. or is it my feet are going numb by then IDK
I've had a 1x3 wedged in between frame and that bracket on the head(didn't want to risk fins) just to see how much the motor would move in a front to back up/down axis wondering how much my front motor mounts would allow,or if they were sagging,about an inch was all I could get so I'm thinking they're ok. Oh and oddly enough the buzzing seems to lesson as the motor reaches operating temps. or is it my feet are going numb by then IDK
That's one thing I noticed about my foot board buzzing too. That clue made me wonder if it was exhaust related... expanding metal made it less severe by less contact somehow... just thinking out loud. But I definitely remembered noticing the difference once things warmed up. Kinda weird we both noticed that.
Another thing to remember is the SG floorboards aren't as cushy
as the Ultras boards, there's less rubber under them. I've went through this until I got tired of hunting and said the heck with it and just ride. I'm not kidding though, if you put your feet on the Hwy Pegs you feel nothing. Feel nothing in the handle bars either so I ride.
If someone finds the culprit though I'd give it a whirl to see if it helped mine as well, so dig on guy's.
One more thought to this, when you pull your clutch in and the vibes stop, rev your engine back up to the rpm's you were running with the clutch still engaged and see if the buzz comes back.
Tried it. Vibes still there reved up, clutch pulled in. Then vibes go away when motor drops to idle. It teally seems like contact somwhere... Still hunting.
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