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Does anyone know what is normal or acceptable for lateral movement of the swingarm? Removed my rear tire and disconnected the shocks and checked mine yesterday. I don't have a dial caliper, but it only seemed around .010"; just ahead of the axle. Bike has 19,000 miles on it. The Bagger Brace was connected when I checked it also. Based on that small amount of deflection, I'm not sure the Aurora bearings will help.
Take into consideration that the bushings are not round, they are offset. Glide Pro makes a nice kit with round bushings. It is not cheap, but does work, but... the round bushings do change the height of the engine and trans by about 1/4" (it drops down). The Glide Pro dude says no problem, but you can't use HD chassis alignment procedures with this setup. You will have to align your bike with laser levels which are fine, but to me a lot of work to get them all setup, with a level bike etc.
No need for special tools other than what is required to remove and install a bearing normally. The bearing has an insert pressed into it.. it is pressed completely into the bearing until it stops. The bearing with sleeve then is pressed or drawn into the swingarm until it is tight to the stop inside the arm. It cannot be installed too deep, and MUST be installed to the machined stop in the swingarm.
Really, it is a simple process for most who have basic tools, some threaded rod, a few sockets, a vise, and a press if you really want (but not needed)
I used my wheel bearing installer tool with some sockets to remove and install the bearings in my 02 RKC.
Too late for me, totaled 08 Ultra,4 weeks prior to my accident got the bagger wobble,thought I was dead,somehow got out of that without going down.took it to the dealer they replaced bearings,tires went over the whole bike said all was ok.2 weeks after the service and all the money spent,got it again,this time wasn't that lucky'went down at 70mph,luckily walked away with some scratches,bike totaled.MoCo will not take responsibility for their engineering screwup cause they'd go bankrupt.Just bought a brand new 2013 Ultra and see that problem hasn't been fixed ,what a shame.I guess I'll have to something bout that on my own,thanx for the info guys.
Sparky, sorry to hear about your experience. If that experience is your introduction to this subject, do read my thread, linked in post #2. Tour Track now offer both front and rear stabilizers, which are well worth considering!
FYI, if you are looking into this project, this is my take after doing the job. Feel free to critique. I recently replaced swing arm bearings on 02 RKC, I noticed the rear end was feeling mushy in curves, bike with 70K and a lot of 2up and loaded. Pulled the rear wheel and unbolted shocks and there was a distinct clunk side to side. I removed old and installed the new with my $20 wheel bearing installer tool and some misc. bolts, sockets, hardened washer and spacers. I chose to press out the inner sleeves from the bearings while they were still in the swing arm, then press out the bearings from the swing arm, this worked out well.
Before installing, I was able to press inner sleeves into the new bearings using a bench vise before installing the assembly into the swing arm. When installing new bearings, SM says to bottom out pulley side and leave brake side just short using Harley tool, I eyeballed about 1/32" less on the brake side. This allows you to install the swing arm on the trans and then when you torque the pivot shaft it takes up any space by pushing the brake side bearing deeper. If you bottom both bearings out in the swing arm before installing, it may not fit onto the trans (ask me how I know that). Anyway the old bearings were noticeably worn after getting them out. New ones, now German Made from the MOCO, look slightly different side by side with more metal and less wear material on the stationary ring of the new ones. Swing arm is now tight side to side, I'm ready to mount the rear wheel, laser align and then will post an update after some miles are on it. Good luck.
Python or others, Are new inner sleeves needed or could they be separated from the bearings easily enough if removed from the swing arm with the bearing? Got the Aurora bearings Friday and the swing-arm off today. Tomorrow, the plan is get the bearings out and maybe new in. Was time for a new rear tire, so doing this while there. I'll post back too, once I get some miles on.
... I chose to press out the inner sleeves from the bearings while they were still in the swing arm, then press out the bearings from the swing arm, this worked out well.
Python, did you press the inner sleeves towards the inside then? I suppose a socket that will pass thru the new bearing will do the job, but what about bearing stops?
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