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Bagger wobble solved!

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Old Oct 8, 2013 | 08:58 PM
  #41  
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I have tried them both, and I don't walk away from anything until I have exhausted all possibilities of making it work right. StaBo just works better with less vibration translated to the chassis, my opinion of course.
Well I value your opinion. I will give StaBo a call, when I replace bearings this winter I may well install them also. By the way, the new snap switch works great. Comes on at 240 - 250 and switches off about 195 - 200.
Perfect in my opinion.
 
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Old Oct 9, 2013 | 06:57 AM
  #42  
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That's what I'm looking at for my 08 Ultra, the Sta Bo II's. Just so happened today, I got me a real good dose of that wobble and now it's got me thinking I need to address this ASAP. I've had it only slightly in the past, and always said to myself is, that what all the fuss is about? But after todays incident, it's gotten my attention. So you think the Sta Bo's, in conjuction with the bearings talked about in thie thread, would be a good combination?
I can only speak to my own experience here. My suggestion is to jack the bike up and get the rear wheel in the air. If you can grab it and wiggle it side-to-side and the play is in the swingarm, then the new sphericals will solve it! If the problem is that the whole drivetrain moves then you have a completely different problem. Perhaps the Sta-bo is appropriate then...

If your play is in the swingarm bearings then a bolt-on solution is not a solution. It's like putting on a bandaid when you really need stiches. If not repaired properly the result will always be worse in the long run. NOTHING is cheaper than the proper fix (remember dad saying that if it is worth doing, it's worth doing right... the first time?) and these bearings are only about $20 each! Can't beat that for a $40 repair! (teflon lined sphericals not the crappy bronze lined factory ones)
 
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Old Oct 9, 2013 | 03:56 PM
  #43  
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Contacted my HCI Supply man, and he can get me these bearings for $13.47 each. But unfortunatly, and as stated earlier here, they won't be available till December. Oh well. Plenty of time to map this out is all. But still going to move ahead with this.
 
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Old Oct 9, 2013 | 07:19 PM
  #44  
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Building a '97 ultra frame with '06 swingarm 1" axles and 124" motor. just researching the whole swingarm issues as I currently ride '98 ultra and have had the wobs many a times usually in a slight angle right turn in acceleration around 65-70 mph. Problem not as frequent after tearing bike completely down and changing tires but not rebuilding swingarm. After study of problem have decided it must be the play in old style swingarms with crappy original parts. Good thing I grew up racing high desert or for sure I would already be another statistic. GREAT INFO... Any comments on my build would be well read and considered.
 
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Old Oct 9, 2013 | 07:34 PM
  #45  
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Originally Posted by porschemann
If you can grab it and wiggle it side-to-side and the play is in the swingarm, then the new sphericals will solve it!
Before doing this, I'd suggest releasing belt tension. Belt tension can greatly mask swing arm play. This play can far more readily be detected with the belt tension relaxed.
 
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Old Oct 14, 2013 | 10:35 PM
  #46  
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Service manual says that Swingarm Bearing Installer (HD-45327) is used the set the brake side bearing to the right depth. Can this be done accurately enough by measuring the depth of the existing bearing? Basically wondering if the bearings can be installed without this tool?
 
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Old Oct 15, 2013 | 05:02 AM
  #47  
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Originally Posted by hmaster
Building a '97 ultra frame with '06 swingarm 1" axles and 124" motor. just researching the whole swingarm issues as I currently ride '98 ultra and have had the wobs many a times usually in a slight angle right turn in acceleration around 65-70 mph. Problem not as frequent after tearing bike completely down and changing tires but not rebuilding swingarm. After study of problem have decided it must be the play in old style swingarms with crappy original parts. Good thing I grew up racing high desert or for sure I would already be another statistic. GREAT INFO... Any comments on my build would be well read and considered.
Welcome to HDF from the UK. Read my link in post #2 above. I have an S&S 107" and use a True-Track Trackula kit, which addresses the handling problem directly.
 
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Old Oct 15, 2013 | 06:10 AM
  #48  
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Originally Posted by Just Me
Got one of those connector things that bolts to the oil pan and frame that is still on my 08 electra glide if anyone is looking for one. Cant remember what the official name is for it but bought it from good advice on here back then. $75 shipped in lower 48.
Sorry for the hijack...
Alloy Art Engine Stabilizer?

 
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Old Oct 15, 2013 | 06:25 AM
  #49  
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Originally Posted by ynots
Alloy Art Engine Stabilizer?
Or True-Track, both can be installed with the Baker pan.
 
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Old Oct 15, 2013 | 06:40 AM
  #50  
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Interesting that the bearings cited also work for 2009+. I will have to keep this as a handy reference. I can see this becoming a necessary move, even for my 2013 in a couple years or so. THANKS!

~Joe
 
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