Tip for Replacing Header
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Joined: Mar 2013
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From: Michigan
Tips for Replacing Header?
Didn't find a lot searching posts (maybe a good thing), so figured I'd ask if any do's, dont's or tips. 2011 RK (103) replacing stock with decat pipe, and 4" Jackpots. Got new gaskets, clamps, etc....better safe than sorry for a few bucks. Have HD manual....seems too straight forward. Thanks in advance!
Last edited by Mike flhp; Oct 18, 2013 at 01:14 PM.
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Joined: Mar 2012
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From: Michigan
Is the de-catted pipe a stock pipe or an aftermarket one?
Use a torque wrench! If not, you may snap the studs off the heads!
Stick to the manual tightening sequence and you should be fine. Don't forget to re-torque after 5 or 6 heat cycles.
Use a torque wrench! If not, you may snap the studs off the heads!
Stick to the manual tightening sequence and you should be fine. Don't forget to re-torque after 5 or 6 heat cycles.
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Its a stock off ebay (bobvic2 or vicbob2....recommended here). Window method...looks good.
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From: Volusia County, FL
Exhaust stud tq is in INCH lbs not ft lbs. Follow the tq procedure in the manual.
If replacing the exhaust gaskets, put them in the freezer before you start the project, should help sliding them in.
If replacing the exhaust gaskets, put them in the freezer before you start the project, should help sliding them in.
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Joe Kucinski
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Look up the new torque spec for the transmission trap door. The bolts that hold the pipe mount at the transmission are famous for loosening and causing a trans oil leak at the trap door. Re torque them to the new spec now rather then later. The spec went from 18 up to 25 foot -lbs, reference service bulletin m-1305. It is hard to get to the bolts with the header pipe installed. When I put on my Jackpot header I checked the bolts tight at the old spec, and they still loosened and leaked. No problems so far after the re torque.