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Pushrods through the top

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Old Jan 10, 2014 | 08:26 PM
  #31  
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Originally Posted by rasmukri
I've pulled mine off a few times no special tools or anything, its simple.
But you will need special tools for the actual cam change part to lock the chain and if you change the berrings (you should since you are in there) you will need a special puller adapter thing-ama-jig
I watched a video, (I believe it came from the Fuel Moto set of vids they have on their fine site), and the mechanic just leaned on the rear brake pedal to restrict the assembly from turning. One man job without a fancy locking tool.
Opinions on that would be appreciated.
Thanks
 
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Old Jan 10, 2014 | 08:33 PM
  #32  
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buy the tools. I bought them before i did a cam swap. Really cut the assembly time and also kept the frustration down
 
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Old Jan 11, 2014 | 06:58 AM
  #33  
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A lot of us just used the rental tools from Auto Zone... Worked fine...freeze the bearings and lube them good and they tap right in...
See attached a Bearing seal installer set and a Bearing blind hole puller. Some have used the cam they took off to drive the bearing back in...It's really not that complicated....The tool makes it easy but after doing it once with these tools i would use them again...
 
Attached Thumbnails Pushrods through the top-beraingbushingset.jpg   Pushrods through the top-blindholepuller.jpg  
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Old Jan 11, 2014 | 07:52 AM
  #34  
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Originally Posted by snip0721
motion pro, or whoevers dogbone wrenches.....not worth $hit without a 3/8" drive, inchpound torque wrench.....snip
Well. You should have a 3/8" inch lb torque wrench if you are doing work on your motor. Most torque settings for a cam swap are inch lbs.

Sent from my Galaxy Nexus
 
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Old Jan 11, 2014 | 10:14 AM
  #35  
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I've done this on my 2010 Ultra and 2000 Wideglide and I suggest you get the dogbones to make life a bit easier. You don't need any other special tools except maybe the sprocket locking tool for the cams.

Get the dogbones from McMaster Carr for about $30. I've got the 1/2" and 7/16". These help when you torque the rockers and rocker boxes to spec.

http://www.mcmaster.com/#=q7eqta

And if you want, get a pair of these stainless retaining rings for your exhaust since you will have it off anyway. Not needed but nice since they don't rust like the stock ones.

http://www.mcmaster.com/#91650a540/=q7etb7
 

Last edited by uscanuck; Jan 11, 2014 at 10:16 AM.
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Old Jan 11, 2014 | 08:54 PM
  #36  
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Originally Posted by 12hdrk
Well. You should have a 3/8" inch lb torque wrench if you are doing work on your motor. Most torque settings for a cam swap are inch lbs.

Sent from my Galaxy Nexus
I was referring to the rocker box question, and use of the dogbone wrench. lots of both inch lbs, and ft. lbs specs in both the rocker, and cam chest.....steve
 
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Old Jan 11, 2014 | 08:59 PM
  #37  
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Originally Posted by snip0721

I was referring to the rocker box question, and use of the dogbone wrench. lots of both inch lbs, and ft. lbs specs in both the rocker, and cam chest.....steve
And I was just saying you need to have an inch lb torque wrench.

Sent from my Galaxy Nexus
 
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Old Jan 11, 2014 | 09:10 PM
  #38  
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Originally Posted by 12hdrk
And I was just saying you need to have an inch lb torque wrench.

Sent from my Galaxy Nexus
you are correct. actually I use 3 different ones....1/4" drive inch lb. 3/8" drive inch lb. and a 3/8' drive ft. lbs. have a 1/2" drive ft. lb too, but very rarely needed.....snip
 
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Old Jan 11, 2014 | 10:03 PM
  #39  
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Originally Posted by snip0721

you are correct. actually I use 3 different ones....1/4" drive inch lb. 3/8" drive inch lb. and a 3/8' drive ft. lbs. have a 1/2" drive ft. lb too, but very rarely needed.....snip
Sounds like you are well prepared. Lot of people attempt these jobs totally unprepared

Sent from my Galaxy Nexus
 
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