Drag Radials...
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From: Poolville
Drag Radials...
Hey, I've been trying to find a 150-80/16 drag radial that I can put on my Fatboy And it's proven to be very difficult to find. Unless I went to a 17-in but I can't go wider than a 150 with the older style Evo Softail chassis and I don't want to get new rims.. My problem is I spin way too much in first, second and even in third gear I'm spinning.. I'd like to eliminate most of that. If anybody has any recommendations I'd love to hear them please. Like I said I've been looking and there really isn't much **** out there in a 16".. I've had Shinkos but I need a little better traction than the 777.. Thank you..
Last edited by 98hotrodfatboy; Feb 12, 2023 at 03:26 PM.
Cruiser
Joined: Dec 2008
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From: South East
Have a look at the Shinko Stealth D drag radial. I have not used them but heard they hook up good.
https://shinkotireusa.com/product/stealth-d-tire/211912
C
https://shinkotireusa.com/product/stealth-d-tire/211912
C
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From: poway
Are you sure the clutch ain't slipping.. I ran my 116 dyna (125 / 130) with 150 metzlers and while I could get it to spin in first, second and third it pretty much hooked up..
Why do you want a radial? There are some bias ply tires that might fit the bill.
Why do you want a radial? There are some bias ply tires that might fit the bill.
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From: Poolville
As for radials, I can't find a drag tire that's a bias ply so the only thing that's coming up is radial which ain't that bad as I actually have a radial on the front.. It's a Michelin Commander 2..
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From: poway
I'm positive about the clutch not slipping.. First and Second gear is kicking the rear out sometime to the left and sometimes to the right and sometimes third as well.. This is on my 96 in Evo my Softail not the Dyna...
As for radials, I can't find a drag tire that's a bias ply so the only thing that's coming up is radial which ain't that bad as I actually have a radial on the front.. It's a Michelin Commander 2..
As for radials, I can't find a drag tire that's a bias ply so the only thing that's coming up is radial which ain't that bad as I actually have a radial on the front.. It's a Michelin Commander 2..
Not sure what you mean by "drag radial" Do you want a full blown slick or simply a sticky street tire.
The reason why you don't want a bias is that you have a radial on the front?
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From: Poolville
Sticky Street tire in a radial..
Yes, to match front radial..
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From: poway
No problem running a radial on the front and bias on the back.. For a while that was all I did on my RK when I switch over to a 3.5x18 front wheel. Used 130r/70x18s. MC radial side walls don't flex like car radial sidewalls. You running a 120/70-19 on the front? Standard 130/90-16 is a bias.
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From: Poolville
Well learn clutchless shifting. No one power shifts any more. You can put a kill button on the left handlebar. Your powertrain will thank you..
No problem running a radial on the front and bias on the back.. For a while that was all I did on my RK when I switch over to a 3.5x18 front wheel. Used 130r/70x18s. MC radial side walls don't flex like car radial sidewalls. You running a 120/70-19 on the front? Standard 130/90-16 is a bias.
No problem running a radial on the front and bias on the back.. For a while that was all I did on my RK when I switch over to a 3.5x18 front wheel. Used 130r/70x18s. MC radial side walls don't flex like car radial sidewalls. You running a 120/70-19 on the front? Standard 130/90-16 is a bias.
I have read up on the switches that go on the shift linkage to do that but I guess it'd be the same just by doing it by hand.. The aftermarket kits that have the solenoid with the spring in it and all that **** on the shift linkage, They're $3-400.. So all I have to do is like I said, install a momentary switch in line with the coil supply power and run the wiring and I'd be good?
Believe it or not with the data logging I did on my 2013, the clutch switch on there also interrupts the injector pulse width so it's not supplying fuel to the cylinder when you pull the clutch in to do a power shift.. Wouldn't that be kind of like the same thing?
And yes I am running a 120-70/19.. The thing I really like about the radial over the bias tire or it could be just the type of tire, a Michelin Commander 2, I don't hardly feel tar snakes with that tire... It's pretty amazing.. But by what I heard a radial on the front to a bias in the rear could cause death wobble.. Saw it on a Kevin Baxter video with a Dunlop tire rep.. How much truth to that is I really don't know..
Last edited by 98hotrodfatboy; Feb 13, 2023 at 07:54 PM.
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From: poway
So your telling me that I can put a momentary kill switch at my left thumb just to cut power to the coil, make my shift with out clutching it and it will handle it with no issues???
I have read up on the switches that go on the shift linkage to do that but I guess it'd be the same just by doing it by hand.. The aftermarket kits that have the solenoid with the spring in it and all that **** on the shift linkage, They're $3-400.. So all I have to do is like I said, install a momentary switch in line with the coil supply power and run the wiring and I'd be good?
Believe it or not with the data logging I did on my 2013, the clutch switch on there also interrupts the injector pulse width so it's not supplying fuel to the cylinder when you pull the clutch in to do a power shift.. Wouldn't that be kind of like the same thing?
And yes I am running a 120-70/19.. The thing I really like about the radial over the bias tire or it could be just the type of tire, a Michelin Commander 2, I don't hardly feel tar snakes with that tire... It's pretty amazing.. But by what I heard a radial on the front to a bias in the rear could cause death wobble.. Saw it on a Kevin Baxter video with a Dunlop tire rep.. How much truth to that is I really don't know..
I have read up on the switches that go on the shift linkage to do that but I guess it'd be the same just by doing it by hand.. The aftermarket kits that have the solenoid with the spring in it and all that **** on the shift linkage, They're $3-400.. So all I have to do is like I said, install a momentary switch in line with the coil supply power and run the wiring and I'd be good?
Believe it or not with the data logging I did on my 2013, the clutch switch on there also interrupts the injector pulse width so it's not supplying fuel to the cylinder when you pull the clutch in to do a power shift.. Wouldn't that be kind of like the same thing?
And yes I am running a 120-70/19.. The thing I really like about the radial over the bias tire or it could be just the type of tire, a Michelin Commander 2, I don't hardly feel tar snakes with that tire... It's pretty amazing.. But by what I heard a radial on the front to a bias in the rear could cause death wobble.. Saw it on a Kevin Baxter video with a Dunlop tire rep.. How much truth to that is I really don't know..
I've not tried clutch power shifting on a later bike. Bikes with "fly by wire" don't seem to take the throttle chop all that well. The response seems too slow. Rs don't drop quick enough.
I take it you are running the CII one a 3.5 inch wide rim.. If really stuck on radial. Avon cobras and storms are available in ridials. 150/80x16. I've found the Cobra to be pretty sticky on the street but they don't like tar snakes if the temps get above 90F.
Found the Baxter vid but wouldn't be surprised if the rep is towing the line as far as safety goes. The 120x70-19 is a very short sidewall tire. I've run Bridgestone T30s/T31 on a 2.5 inch rim but the 110/80s work better. Rear tire is a 180RV/55-18 BS Excedra tho. Very sticky but only last about 2500 miles.
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