When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
Did some "bobber style" custom work on a 2002 HD FXST Softail Std. ...Put a new, narrow (swingarm mounted) rear fender and a new 18 inch narrow rear chrome laced wheel. One day while cleaning rear wheel I found 3 broken spokes! (Out of warranty, of course)!!
...Ordered a new one, same brand...and, again, while cleaning rear wheel found a (one) broken spoke!!
Anyone ever heard of this before?.....Am I doing something wrong or are these bad wheels or improperly laced or improperly balanced?? .....(has no rear wobble at all)
.....Don't know what to do at this point!!
Thanks in advance for some advice on this!
Probably not trued properly or spokes were loose. But why did you buy another wheel? You break a spoke, you buy a new spoke and install it.
My '05 Road Glide, when packed heavy, broke two twice on long road trips. After the first event I carried spare spokes in the Tour Pak (my bike had a long and short, carried two of each). Get bike in the air, let most but not all of the air out of the tire, remove broken spoke, insert new into hub and then gently push the nipple into the wheel just enough to insert the new spoke. Air pressure is important, remove enough to push the nipple in but not so much that it falls in and ruins your day. Once screwed in, use the tone method to tighten the same as the surrounding spokes. Check the rest by tone, tighten as needed so they all sound the same. Good luck.
in days of olden, i knew guys that could re-spoke and align lightening fast and did use the ting test. while good, these guys did it forever and a day, not so much for a one timer or tone deaf person.
there are a lot of spoke tools out there but the only one i recommend is the nipple wrench, will save battle scars or worse rounded off nipples. torque wrenches are a waste since torque is not consistent.
also use a heavy oil on the threads, does not take much, especially on stainless. the use of dial indicators and a truing stand is a must. you can red neck the stand with a vise and shaft but remember to take all of the axial play out of the bearing assy, the stand has cones for that, and some chalk helps to keep track of position and go slow.
the fsm does have a section on the wheel assy.
7 Surprising Harley-Davidson Products that Are Not Motorcycles
Slideshow: The bar-and-shield logo shows up on far more than motorcycles, some of the company's most unexpected products have nothing to do with riding.
Slideshow: From the troubled AMF years to modern misfires, these bikes earned reputations for reliability issues, questionable engineering, or disappointing performance.
Crazy Bunderbike Build Looks Amazing, But Is It Impossible to Ride?
Slideshow: The Swiss custom shop has taken a Harley Softail and stretched it into something so long and low that it looks closer to a rolling sculpture than a conventional motorcycle.
Engraved Rebellion: Inside Bundnerbike's Glam Rock II
Slideshow: A standard cruiser becomes an intricate metal canvas in the hands of a Swiss custom house known for pushing Harley-Davidson platforms far beyond their factory brief.
Slideshow: Harley-Davidson's challenges aren't abstract; they show up in dropping shipments, shrinking dealer traffic, and strategic decisions that aren't yet translating into growth.