When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
Maybe it was going to go out at 16.5 and the ATF prolonged it's life a bit.
That's a good possibility but did the ATF thing a long time ago in my snowmobile and it took out the upper chaincase bearing too????
BTW, ATF did nothing for the clunk in that bike either.
I just finished checking the rod clearance for the clutch pull and it was .085. the books says .080 minimum clearance so well within specs there.
The clunk is what it is I guess just seems a lot more than on previous bikes.
Curious if you tried Mobil 1 ATF? I tried various other types... Type F, Dexron, etc. with poor results. Mobile 1 and Redline high temp syn ATF worked well for me.
That was all about the cold start klunk. For the warmed up klunk, I found a marked improvement using 7 ounces of Lucas non-syn oil stabilizer in the trans with Bel-Ray V-Twin gear oil. Trans temp went down 20 degrees when hot also. The tranny fluid thins when hot & the Lucas helps offset that.
People lets keep in mind you are sitting inches away from a big v-twin motor that has no sound insulation and you are going to hear all kinds of noise from metal part working together. It is what it is.
You're not in your wife's sound proof car with the jukebox blaring.
Thanks, your reply will be welcome. The op said after they put in the RL and... "Put it into first and it slipped in like a hot knife through butter." So I would really like to see if you find the same or was it BS.
Finally got around to dropping the Formula+ in the primary and putting in the Red Line, was kinda surprised with the amount of fine residue on the magnetic drain plug after only 1300 miles since the 5K service. Anyway, after a 50 mile ride I find no major changes, the clunk is still there, pretty much as loud as ever. And it didn't quiet down the primary/compensator noises, that was my hope. I tend to short shift a lot and it seems to have quieted down a little the shifts between other gears, 2-3, 3-4, etc. One thing I did notice is that pulling away from a stop in 1st. gear was smoother, the clutch seems to mesh/feather in easier. As for the primary/compensator noises, I'm not too worried, I have the extended warranty and if it breaks I'll get it fixed, after the initial 2 years I can take it to my Indy guy for repair. For now it's just RIDE!
I run Redline transmission shock proof and the Redline Primary oil in my 14 SGS. The clunk is still there. The only way to stop it from clunking is to pull in the clutch, rock the bike back and forth with the motor running and then put it into gear. Then it goes in smoothly. If you don't rock it, then it still clunks. For those of you that say your bike doesn't clunk at all, are you rocking it? Or does it always go into gear with zero clunk?
IUOE ROB; Thanks for the feedback. The dealer carriers RL primary @ $18.95, and of course you must buy two. They know it's for the primary, says so, but still 32 oz. you'd think they'd make it 38 oz. Oh yeah the bottom line again, rip-off'd again.
I'm always worried that no clunk means it's not fully in gear..... I've even been known to put it back in neutral and into first again to make sure..... My old Road Star popped out of 1st into neutral almost too easy. I'm ok with the way my Street Glide works. The EITMS being on is the most annoying sound mine makes. It's embarrassing but I'd rather put up with that than overheat......
IUOE ROB; Thanks for the feedback. The dealer carriers RL primary @ $18.95, and of course you must buy two. They know it's for the primary, says so, but still 32 oz. you'd think they'd make it 38 oz. Oh yeah the bottom line again, rip-off'd again.
You're welcome...yeah, I now have 26 ounces left, it's either use Red Line for my next service and buy one additional quart or I just paid $35 (price of 2 qts.) to change the primary fluid. Oh well...
Just FYI, Shell Rotella T in my primary in both bikes. As good as anything else at 1/3 the price. Very quiet in my 06 & great in the 09. It clunks when the revs are high (cold) & is like butter when I hold the clutch in for 3-4 seconds.
So I walk into a supply shop today and on the shelf is red line primary for $15.99 a Qt. I scratch my head and decide let's give this a try. Came home and drained the Rotella T and put in the red line. Took the bike out for an hour and absolutely no difference. Doesn't shift any smoother although I have no complaints to begin with. When it wants to make a clunk it does and when it wants to click in smoothly it does. The red line made absolutely no difference and its almost three times the price. I think my clutch and primary with the compensaver is running really well and between the Rotella and the red line I don't feel or hear any difference. For those of you that find red line to be the save all I don't buy it. It's not any worse but its not any better. They both work well.
7 Surprising Harley-Davidson Products that Are Not Motorcycles
Slideshow: The bar-and-shield logo shows up on far more than motorcycles, some of the company's most unexpected products have nothing to do with riding.
Slideshow: From the troubled AMF years to modern misfires, these bikes earned reputations for reliability issues, questionable engineering, or disappointing performance.
Crazy Bunderbike Build Looks Amazing, But Is It Impossible to Ride?
Slideshow: The Swiss custom shop has taken a Harley Softail and stretched it into something so long and low that it looks closer to a rolling sculpture than a conventional motorcycle.
Engraved Rebellion: Inside Bundnerbike's Glam Rock II
Slideshow: A standard cruiser becomes an intricate metal canvas in the hands of a Swiss custom house known for pushing Harley-Davidson platforms far beyond their factory brief.
Slideshow: Harley-Davidson's challenges aren't abstract; they show up in dropping shipments, shrinking dealer traffic, and strategic decisions that aren't yet translating into growth.