Same experience with V&H and the FP3 on my last bike. I bought a 2019 Low Rider in June and plan to do the Stage 1 upgrade using V&H components. BUT, I recommed that you not do anything to void your warranty until after your 1K miles initial inspection and service. It is the one where any problems and defects from how the bike came from the factory are corrected under the warranty. With HD taking a very strict approach to voiding warranties (no matter what the dealer says) on bikes that use a tuning device other than the HD SE device, you don't want to run the risk.

Based on my riding habits, I will get to the 5k miles inspection and service within my first year of ownership; so, I plan to wait to do the Stage 1 upgrade until then. After the 5k inspection and service, I feel OK with letting the warranty go. No question that any tuner other than the HD tuner will be the way to go. I like the V&H FP3 because it is simple to install, provides continuous readout of key performance attributes, and the V&H service for developing custom maps is so good.

 

Here you go.......

 

Subscribing to this. Very interested in this real world post, thanks boys!

 

I bought a 19 Sport Glide. She has 600 miles. November 11 she is scheduled for her 1k service inspection etc. Lol end of my 45 day tags. The dealership updates to the latest oil pump & transmission parts to hopefully prevent sumping and or transfer. This concerns me as I will ride out west at speed with rpm so I see this as putting the M8 until proven otherwise at risk. So I value and don't want to risk voiding the warranty.

While at the dealership she gets the Stage III (4.075 cylinders, 11-1 pistons, 498 cam, SE valve springs, tappets, base & cam cover gaskets, cam bearing upgrade) with SE Heavy Breather extreme AC, S&S 2 into 1 CARB compliant header & exhaust and S&S tappet cuffs. None of which voids warranty according to the dealership. Naturally she can only be tuned on HD's street tuner doing what he can. I was figuring I would be happy with this for 24 months after which time I would perhaps add the SE 64mm TB, intake manifold and high flow injectors. (already purchased at 20% discount. Figured I could sell if I don't use them) and have a dyno tune with PV or other if its worth it over VH FP3. I like the idea of the FP3 I assume short of not using it during cold start warm up that it would stay on the bike and keep the best tune through fuel weather and altitude changes?

BTW any of you more experienced builders suggest any changes while at the dealership getting the Stage III? I just noticed in the SE catalog Stage III requires separate purchase of "cam drive retention kit PN25566-06 and installation may require cam spacer kit PN 25928-06" but the dealer with mechanic dyno tuner present said nothing about this? Last I see premium tapered adjustable pushrods. I don't suspect I will want to change the cam again but maybe its best for other reasons anyway and the time to do it while there. Anybody with any experience insight on this? Or other things I should consider?


BTW anybody know the best way to circumvent the 108 mph limiter? Does somebody already sell a nifty little work around?

EDIT Very cool. Looking forward to hearing about the air fuel ratio discussion EPA tune vs best tune.

 

Fp3 and the power vision shuts off the limiter

 

I installed my FP3 last night too. Here is my experience.

Installed (plugged in) to the bike no problem. I already had Tab slip ons fitted but I also installed a K&N filter last night.

Picked the map map matching the closest slip ons. Flashed the bike no problem. All good. The biggest problem I had was putting the actual FP3 somewhere. I ended up releasing the catch on the plastic plate that all of the plugs are mounted on and pushing it half in behind then clipping the plate back in place. It then just fits behind the chrome cover too.

So, the bike already ran fine so wasn’t expecting much change. And there wasn’t really any on the first ride - about an hour of mixed conditions. But I don’t ride that hard. However, when I restarted for the second ride the bike was immediately different. It sounded different and it feels much smoother. I assume that the ecu was trimming but doesn’t apply changes until the ignition is cycled. Anyway, it feels noticeably smoother. It hasn’t fixed the irritating rattle from the left hand driving light unfortunately. Lol. No, not the fuel cap. After the recommended 2 tanks of fuel I’ll probably run an auto tune.

So I'm happy. I haven’t fiddled with the settings. I have cleared trouble codes which were all rear light codes which probably popped up when I installed my CD Tripple Play.

I did note that the throttle progressivist setting is now ‘Custom’. I was expecting the new map to set it to ‘Aggressive’ which the app says is the recommended one. So I might change that. It also left the idle set at 850.

But all good. Easy and doesn’t need fiddling with. More time for riding. Happy days!

Cheers.

 

Stupid question, but I've never owned an FP3. Can you install the FP3 on the bike and view codes and other diagnostic data but not flash the ECM and thereby keep warranty intact? Just curious if that's an option to play around with it a bit, view the data, etc. but maybe not do anything with it yet.

Thanks

 

i could be completely wrong, but the full function of the FP3 doesn’t exist until it is “married” to the ECM. When you hook it up, the first function it does by default is enables you to search for a map. Once the map is installed then you have full function of the services it offers.

I did just get home from another outing. It is on your face obvious that the motor is much happier now!

 

Thanks. I wanted to see if they have they Rinehart 3.5 slip-ons for my LRS that has factory pipes and factory high flow AC while at the same time maybe playing around with it. If I found it clunky or was unhappy with something I wouldn't be all in, PT warranty in the *******, but it sounds like that might not be possible.

 

The V&H CODE:READ will do what you are looking for. It's about $99.