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Yep. All existing wiring, clutch cable, and brake line work with the HD Tallboy bars. You WILL have to remove the two retainers that hold the clutch line and brake line to the triple tree, so that you have enough slack in those lines.
To remove the clutch and brake line retainers with the fairing in place, you will need a T27 bit for a 1/4 hex driver and a way to turn it. I turned my T27 bit with a 1/4 end wrench and it worked just fine. You basically need a right-angle T27 (like a standard Allen wrench, but Torx instead.
Originally Posted by Taxgod4u
fwiw, I was able to reuse the top triple tree hose/cable clamps w/ the tallboys. However, I pulled the whole fairing off so it was super accessible.
I just installed Tallboys on my SG last night. I did remove those hose clamps as suggested, but I still had a bear of a time getting the lever mounts back on the bars. It felt like I needed a lot of torque to properly seat the perch clamp halves and they still look like they're not seated correctly (I did double-check that the control harnesses are not being pinched). The brake line seemed very taught and the clutch cable's tube needs to be bent differently. I'm thinking about going ahead and replacing the clutch cable with a new version Fat Baggers released recently that moves the adjuster up by the clutch lever housing, so I'll likely just get one that +2". Still pondering the brake line (I really hate messing with paint-melting brake fluid).
Here's a back to back of the OEM vs. the Tallboy bars. The picture is taken at my eye level seated and as you can see, the Tallboy does not block the mirrors.
I just installed Tallboys on my SG last night. I did remove those hose clamps as suggested, but I still had a bear of a time getting the lever mounts back on the bars. It felt like I needed a lot of torque to properly seat the perch clamp halves and they still look like they're not seated correctly (I did double-check that the control harnesses are not being pinched). The brake line seemed very taught and the clutch cable's tube needs to be bent differently. I'm thinking about going ahead and replacing the clutch cable with a new version Fat Baggers released recently that moves the adjuster up by the clutch lever housing, so I'll likely just get one that +2". Still pondering the brake line (I really hate messing with paint-melting brake fluid).
Here's a back to back of the OEM vs. the Tallboy bars. The picture is taken at my eye level seated and as you can see, the Tallboy does not block the mirrors.
Yeah the clutch cable tube does need the bends opened slightly. Taxgod and I both did that simply by hand. Doesnt take much. Doesnt need much.
Did you follow my YouTube video for the install? I didnt have any issue with the controls or levers going into place. It does help to lower the bars first so youre not trying to wedge them between bars and the fairing.
My arms were in the way of the mirrors, not really the bars in the way.
I really find it odd that Taxgod didnt have to remove the p-clips from the triple and had plenty of length on his clutch and brake lines, I had to remove the p-clips to get enough length, and you say theyre too tight even with the clips removed.
Yeah the clutch cable tube does need the bends opened slightly. Taxgod and I both did that simply by hand. Doesnt take much. Doesnt need much.
Did you follow my YouTube video for the install? I didnt have any issue with the controls or levers going into place. It does help to lower the bars first so youre not trying to wedge them between bars and the fairing.
<snip>
I really find it odd that Taxgod didnt have to remove the p-clips from the triple and had plenty of length on his clutch and brake lines, I had to remove the p-clips to get enough length, and you say theyre too tight even with the clips removed.
I'm going to pop the fairing all the way off this afternoon since it looks like it's just the four bolts holding it on plus a few plugs since the face is still peeled off and I need to learn how to do it anyway (and I'm a glutton for punishment...lol). This way I can more finely tune the cable/brake line runs.
Mirror clearance may be affected by my need to pull the bars back for my stubby arms? Regardless, they're not in their final position yet so we'll see how it goes.
Your video was great. Nice, no fluff, delivery. Very easy to follow. Keep it up!
dont forget to pull the clutch cable out of the retaining clip on the throttle side of the frame neck. fwiw I did remove the P clips for the job, but was able to reinstall with no issues.
dont forget to pull the clutch cable out of the retaining clip on the throttle side of the frame neck. fwiw I did remove the P clips for the job, but was able to reinstall with no issues.
I'm down waiting for a Fat Baggers +2" clutch cable. I managed to kink the OEM cable's guide tube while trying to bend it so it's toast. Not all bad since I wanted replace the OEM cable with the new FatBagger cable because it adds slack-take-up by the lever (like my '84 Honda, and every other bike I've ever owned with a clutch cable) and best of all, it eliminates that kludgy plastic "adjuster".
I'm generally pretty mechanically crafty, but bending tubes apparently isn't in my skill set.
PS - This is my first HD with a fairing and I was loath to remove the fairing due to my PTSD from the nightmarish process for the same task on my previous '13 R1200RT and '21 Goldwing. I had the thing off in 10-15 minutes first time through an no service manual. It's great how easy these bikes are to work on compared to most metric bike.
The bars feel perfect. My arms are just a hair under being straight out, about nip level. The whole job took about 4 hours taking my time. So glad I didnt have to remove the fairing.
The Adversary mirrors didnt come with acorn nuts or washers so I installed the Amazon set I bought last week.
The 10 windshield is a night and day difference in wind noise. Two problems with it though no wind breeze so its effing HOT, and buffeting coming from under the fairing dammit. Albeit only at speeds about 65, but thats 90% of my riding.
Installed the heated grips while I did the bars. Ive got the old revision hand control modules so Ill need Harley to perform the PAB1175 service bulletin procedure to enable them.
Garage door controller is installed along with the jiffy stand sensor. Those need to be enabled as well.
Brandon
you mention that you had to get it flash and it didnt work the first time because they didnt put the correct code of the device in
do you what number number they need i have the same problem.
Brandon
you mention that you had to get it flash and it didnt work the first time because they didnt put the correct code of the device in
do you what number number they need i have the same problem.
Thanks for your time
Tmanz
I replied to your other post. Have the dealership call the corporate engineers. I believe it was the number on the paperwork.
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