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Sears red jack modification

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Old Aug 21, 2010 | 05:38 PM
  #151  
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Default use for a jack

Originally Posted by Grendel4
Unless your bike leans on the stand a little different than mine, when it starts to overflow? It's full...HD calls for a quart in the primary, but it doesn't always hold an entire quart...
This is how the jack is useful. You have to put in a quart. (period) Not just what it will take on the jiffy stand, which isn't a whole quart.

But you're right that the trans takes much less than a quart; it is important not to overfill.

BTW, you mentioned concern over crushing the sidewalls of the channels. There is no need to tighten the bolts so much; I used Nylock nuts and left a tiny bit of clearance so it all pivots freely. You can see photos in post #130.
 
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Old Aug 21, 2010 | 05:52 PM
  #152  
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I did this same mod to my Harbor freight jack and it is rock solid! The Harbor freight jack allows you to bolt up the lift pads 1" inboard or 1" outboard from the get go and I moved mine all the way to outside using the O.E. bolts. I do want to get longer bolts and use some spacers under the lift pad, but this has been working for some time now with no problems. I just put a small piece of 2x4 under the jiffy and I roll it right under the bike with no hassles. I do put a couple of small block under the front so I don't lift on the clutch cable.
CB
 
Attached Thumbnails Sears red jack modification-img_1485.jpg   Sears red jack modification-img_1484.jpg   Sears red jack modification-img_1483.jpg  
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Old Aug 21, 2010 | 06:36 PM
  #153  
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Lo-rider... looking at your post #130, 3rd pic. The bolt that is front left. With that orientation, doesn't that cause slight clearance issues with the jiffy stand spring? I initially had mine with all nuts on the inside but quickly realized I needed to transpose that one bolt just for that reason.
 
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Old Aug 21, 2010 | 07:11 PM
  #154  
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Originally Posted by cbz1200n
I did this same mod to my Harbor freight jack and it is rock solid! The Harbor freight jack allows you to bolt up the lift pads 1" inboard or 1" outboard from the get go and I moved mine all the way to outside using the O.E. bolts. I do want to get longer bolts and use some spacers under the lift pad, but this has been working for some time now with no problems. I just put a small piece of 2x4 under the jiffy and I roll it right under the bike with no hassles. I do put a couple of small block under the front so I don't lift on the clutch cable.
CB
Maybe this is why I am having the problems I am, these pic's show the jack under the bike from the right side. I have always tried to pick it up from the other side, I will try this as soon as I get home.

Jay
 
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Old Aug 21, 2010 | 07:16 PM
  #155  
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Originally Posted by jcmusic
Maybe this is why I am having the problems I am, these pic's show the jack under the bike from the right side. I have always tried to pick it up from the other side, I will try this as soon as I get home.

Jay

It's always the little details that get left out....That get you every time.
Just slide her right on under while the bike is on the stand, make sure the jack protrudes at least an inch on the stand side, then lift her. She will go upright as you lift. Leave the stand down, unless it is in the way, then when you let her down she will go right back on the stand. Just make sure the stand is down BEFORE you let her down.

Sears red jack modification-dragon17a.jpg
 

Last edited by 8541hog; Aug 21, 2010 at 07:23 PM.
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Old Aug 21, 2010 | 07:17 PM
  #156  
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Originally Posted by jcmusic
Maybe this is why I am having the problems I am, these pic's show the jack under the bike from the right side. I have always tried to pick it up from the other side, I will try this as soon as I get home.

Jay
You mean you've been trying to lift the bike on the jiffy stand side?

Uh, yeah, that would make it a lot more difficult.
 
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Old Aug 21, 2010 | 08:00 PM
  #157  
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Originally Posted by SC-Longhair
You mean you've been trying to lift the bike on the jiffy stand side?

Uh, yeah, that would make it a lot more difficult.
Yes I have stupid me!!! Oh well live and learn thanks guy.

Jay
 
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Old Aug 21, 2010 | 10:26 PM
  #158  
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Originally Posted by SC-Longhair
I'm not sure if anyone has thought of this but I came up with a solution to a problem that a lot of us have using the Sears red jack to lift our Dynas.

I certainly can't afford to spend $400 or so on a J&S or Pitbull that is built wide enough so the h-d lift adapters aren't necessary.

This technically falls within the 'Under $50' thread and I may post it there also but for now...here it is for your viewing pleasure.
Saw your video last night, then went to Sear's this morning to buy the jack (BTW, it's only $99.99 right now). Stopped at TSC on the way home to pick up some Grade 8 bolts (6" x 1/2"), washers and NyLok nuts. Cut the bar out from between the pads, drilled out the holes then bolted it together. Total mod time less than 1/2 hour. Rolled it under my 2010 FXDC and lifted it right up. The way it fits under the bike and lines up with the lift points, you'd think it was made for it. Thanks!
 
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Old Aug 22, 2010 | 12:17 AM
  #159  
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Default bolt orientation

Originally Posted by SC-Longhair
Lo-rider... looking at your post #130, 3rd pic. The bolt that is front left. With that orientation, doesn't that cause slight clearance issues with the jiffy stand spring? I initially had mine with all nuts on the inside but quickly realized I needed to transpose that one bolt just for that reason.
Vic, perhaps there is that much difference between our bikes, but this has not been an issue with my '09, using it same as your vid. Mainly I installed them that way to keep the outside profile cleaner & more snag-free--no other reason. I think it's a good little jack, w/ the mod, though the HF unit has more base stability, because of the wheel locations, and is somewhat more substantially built, in some regards. Maybe moving two of the wheels will be stage III.
 
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Old Aug 22, 2010 | 12:44 AM
  #160  
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Nice share man. Now I have another sunday project to do.
 
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