Sears red jack modification
Elite HDF Member
Joined: Apr 2010
Posts: 4,990
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From: Marina del Rey
use for a jack
But you're right that the trans takes much less than a quart; it is important not to overfill.
BTW, you mentioned concern over crushing the sidewalls of the channels. There is no need to tighten the bolts so much; I used Nylock nuts and left a tiny bit of clearance so it all pivots freely. You can see photos in post #130.
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Joined: Oct 2007
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I did this same mod to my Harbor freight jack and it is rock solid! The Harbor freight jack allows you to bolt up the lift pads 1" inboard or 1" outboard from the get go and I moved mine all the way to outside using the O.E. bolts. I do want to get longer bolts and use some spacers under the lift pad, but this has been working for some time now with no problems. I just put a small piece of 2x4 under the jiffy and I roll it right under the bike with no hassles. I do put a couple of small block under the front so I don't lift on the clutch cable.
CB
CB
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Club Member
Joined: Feb 2008
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From: Passaic County, NJ
Lo-rider... looking at your post #130, 3rd pic. The bolt that is front left. With that orientation, doesn't that cause slight clearance issues with the jiffy stand spring? I initially had mine with all nuts on the inside but quickly realized I needed to transpose that one bolt just for that reason.
Tourer
Joined: Oct 2008
Posts: 485
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From: Just outside of New Orleans, La.
I did this same mod to my Harbor freight jack and it is rock solid! The Harbor freight jack allows you to bolt up the lift pads 1" inboard or 1" outboard from the get go and I moved mine all the way to outside using the O.E. bolts. I do want to get longer bolts and use some spacers under the lift pad, but this has been working for some time now with no problems. I just put a small piece of 2x4 under the jiffy and I roll it right under the bike with no hassles. I do put a couple of small block under the front so I don't lift on the clutch cable.
CB
CB
Jay
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Joined: May 2008
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From: Ogden, UT
It's always the little details that get left out....That get you every time.
Just slide her right on under while the bike is on the stand, make sure the jack protrudes at least an inch on the stand side, then lift her. She will go upright as you lift. Leave the stand down, unless it is in the way, then when you let her down she will go right back on the stand. Just make sure the stand is down BEFORE you let her down.
Last edited by 8541hog; Aug 21, 2010 at 07:23 PM.
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Club Member
Joined: Feb 2008
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From: Passaic County, NJ
Uh, yeah, that would make it a lot more difficult.
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Joined: Oct 2008
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From: Just outside of New Orleans, La.
Jay
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Joined: Jun 2010
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From: Romeo, MI
I'm not sure if anyone has thought of this but I came up with a solution to a problem that a lot of us have using the Sears red jack to lift our Dynas.
I certainly can't afford to spend $400 or so on a J&S or Pitbull that is built wide enough so the h-d lift adapters aren't necessary.
This technically falls within the 'Under $50' thread and I may post it there also but for now...here it is for your viewing pleasure.
I certainly can't afford to spend $400 or so on a J&S or Pitbull that is built wide enough so the h-d lift adapters aren't necessary.
This technically falls within the 'Under $50' thread and I may post it there also but for now...here it is for your viewing pleasure.
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Joined: Apr 2010
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From: Marina del Rey
bolt orientation
Lo-rider... looking at your post #130, 3rd pic. The bolt that is front left. With that orientation, doesn't that cause slight clearance issues with the jiffy stand spring? I initially had mine with all nuts on the inside but quickly realized I needed to transpose that one bolt just for that reason.
