Optimize my sound system
Thread Starter
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Tourer
Joined: Jun 2012
Posts: 325
Likes: 112
From: Charlotte NC
Optimize my sound system
Hey audio gurus... I think I have a solid sound platform of components, but I’m not sure it’s setup to get the most out of it. My current configuration is:
Replaced the stock GT head unit on my 2018 Road Glide Special with the new Harley GTS, and added the Soundz module and WHIM for Car Play capabilities.
From the GTS head unit the sound flows into a DSR1 DSP that was configured by the American Hardbags team when they shipped me all the components through the two stock front speaker wires as inputs to the DSR1. The DSR1 does it’s thing to shape the sound and outputs it to the Diamond Audio Micro84u amp that is in the fairing with a front and rear set of RCA connectors (plugged into the amp RCA fo +/- wire harness). From the amp the front output is wired to a harness that splits the signal to a set of Hertz MPK 165 6.5s in the upper fairing (with a cross-over to the small tweeters), and a set of Hertz SV165 6.5s in the lower fairing. The rear output from the amp goes to a wiring harness to the saddlebag lids that splits to a set of Hybrid Audio 6x9s and Hertz ST25 Horns with inline 6DB crossovers to protect the horns.
The sound is pretty good, but I’ve been told that I should have a separate amp powering the rear 6x9s and horns and one powering the four 6.5”s in the upper and lower fairing up front. I do have an “extra” BikeTronics BT2250 amp from the previous setup, but I don’t know if I should put it in to drive the four 6.5”s and use the Micro84u to power the 6x9s and Horns, if I should get another Micro84u, or if I should leave it alone. The specs for the current equipment are:
Micro84u amp specs are:
When adjusting the SENS I disconnect the rear speaker output to adjust just the fronts, then disconnect the fronts to adjust just the rears. The Frequency setting for front and rear are different but not set for a lot of bass. The SENS settings on the amp are about 1/4 for the fronts and just under 1/2 for the rears if I recall correctly.
What suggestions do you have to maximize the sound and clarity?
Replaced the stock GT head unit on my 2018 Road Glide Special with the new Harley GTS, and added the Soundz module and WHIM for Car Play capabilities.
From the GTS head unit the sound flows into a DSR1 DSP that was configured by the American Hardbags team when they shipped me all the components through the two stock front speaker wires as inputs to the DSR1. The DSR1 does it’s thing to shape the sound and outputs it to the Diamond Audio Micro84u amp that is in the fairing with a front and rear set of RCA connectors (plugged into the amp RCA fo +/- wire harness). From the amp the front output is wired to a harness that splits the signal to a set of Hertz MPK 165 6.5s in the upper fairing (with a cross-over to the small tweeters), and a set of Hertz SV165 6.5s in the lower fairing. The rear output from the amp goes to a wiring harness to the saddlebag lids that splits to a set of Hybrid Audio 6x9s and Hertz ST25 Horns with inline 6DB crossovers to protect the horns.
The sound is pretty good, but I’ve been told that I should have a separate amp powering the rear 6x9s and horns and one powering the four 6.5”s in the upper and lower fairing up front. I do have an “extra” BikeTronics BT2250 amp from the previous setup, but I don’t know if I should put it in to drive the four 6.5”s and use the Micro84u to power the 6x9s and Horns, if I should get another Micro84u, or if I should leave it alone. The specs for the current equipment are:
Micro84u amp specs are:
- 2 or 4 Channel - set to 4
- 90 W x 4 @ 4Ω
- 165 W x 4 @ 2Ω
- 275 W x 2 @ 4Ω Bridged
- 110 Watts RMS
- 220 Watts Peak Power
- Sensitivity: 92 dB/SPL
- 400 Watts Peak Power
- Sensitivity 97 dB/SPL
- Handles up to 50 watts RMS (100 watts peak)
- Impedance: 4 ohms
- Sensitivity: 107 dB
- 75 Watts RMS
- 150 Watts Peak
- Impedance: 2 ohms
- 2 channel
- 500 watt RMS
When adjusting the SENS I disconnect the rear speaker output to adjust just the fronts, then disconnect the fronts to adjust just the rears. The Frequency setting for front and rear are different but not set for a lot of bass. The SENS settings on the amp are about 1/4 for the fronts and just under 1/2 for the rears if I recall correctly.
What suggestions do you have to maximize the sound and clarity?
Elite HDF Member
Joined: Aug 2008
Posts: 4,150
Likes: 459
From: S. FL
You don’t have anywhere near enough power on your bike to run all of that. It’s also impossible to tune a component 6.5 with a midrange wired together. You could achieve similar sound without a DSP. Second amp, more power, every speaker on its own channel, better tune, etc. I’m sure you spent a lot of bread on that but it’s not well configured.
Last edited by haze324; Feb 6, 2020 at 09:08 PM.
Thread Starter
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Tourer
Joined: Jun 2012
Posts: 325
Likes: 112
From: Charlotte NC
You don’t have anywhere near enough power on your bike to run all of that. It’s also impossible to tune a component 6.5 with a midrange wired together. You could achieve similar sound without a DSP. Second amp, more power, every speaker on its own channel, better tune, etc. I’m sure you spent a lot of bread on that but it’s not well configured.
If I don’t need the DSR1, should I pull it and just us the BikeTronics Line Leveler I also have sitting in a box to flatten the EQ coming out of the GTS head unit, or should I keep the DSR1 in since I already have it?
Also, can you help me understand a little better the need for more power? The way everything is wired now, I can’t turn the amp SENS up more that about 25% on the fronts before I start getting distortion (I think from the MPK 165s more than the SV165s). Is the notion that if I separate the two sets of 6.5s then I can turn the SV165s up higher before they will distort, and the same concept for the 6x9s and horns... if separated I can get the 6x9s more power before the horns start to distort?
I appreciate you guys chiming in, but what I really need is tactical suggestions on what to do, because you’re right, I have about $3,000 in all the speakers, amp, DSR1, lowers w/ speaker pods and speaker lids. I’d like to make the most of it, and if that means another $500 or so on another amp and power line to mount in the bags then so be it.
Outstanding HDF Member
Joined: Jan 2014
Posts: 2,482
Likes: 239
From: Minnesota
So what are you suggesting specifically? Do I put the two fronts on the BT2250 and put the Micro84u in the saddlebag just to power the 6x9s and horns? Do I buy another Micro84u and put it in the bags just to power the two 6x9s and two horns, and leave the one Micro84u in the fairing to run each of the fronts off it’s own channel?
If I don’t need the DSR1, should I pull it and just us the BikeTronics Line Leveler I also have sitting in a box to flatten the EQ coming out of the GTS head unit, or should I keep the DSR1 in since I already have it?
Also, can you help me understand a little better the need for more power? The way everything is wired now, I can’t turn the amp SENS up more that about 25% on the fronts before I start getting distortion (I think from the MPK 165s more than the SV165s). Is the notion that if I separate the two sets of 6.5s then I can turn the SV165s up higher before they will distort, and the same concept for the 6x9s and horns... if separated I can get the 6x9s more power before the horns start to distort?
I appreciate you guys chiming in, but what I really need is tactical suggestions on what to do, because you’re right, I have about $3,000 in all the speakers, amp, DSR1, lowers w/ speaker pods and speaker lids. I’d like to make the most of it, and if that means another $500 or so on another amp and power line to mount in the bags then so be it.
If I don’t need the DSR1, should I pull it and just us the BikeTronics Line Leveler I also have sitting in a box to flatten the EQ coming out of the GTS head unit, or should I keep the DSR1 in since I already have it?
Also, can you help me understand a little better the need for more power? The way everything is wired now, I can’t turn the amp SENS up more that about 25% on the fronts before I start getting distortion (I think from the MPK 165s more than the SV165s). Is the notion that if I separate the two sets of 6.5s then I can turn the SV165s up higher before they will distort, and the same concept for the 6x9s and horns... if separated I can get the 6x9s more power before the horns start to distort?
I appreciate you guys chiming in, but what I really need is tactical suggestions on what to do, because you’re right, I have about $3,000 in all the speakers, amp, DSR1, lowers w/ speaker pods and speaker lids. I’d like to make the most of it, and if that means another $500 or so on another amp and power line to mount in the bags then so be it.
If it were me I would replace that amp with two others that have more power per size.
Thread Starter
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Tourer
Joined: Jun 2012
Posts: 325
Likes: 112
From: Charlotte NC
Again, be specific guys. What amps are you suggesting I use, if it were yours? I’ve got the $ to make this “right”. If you are saying to pull the 660 Watt amp and not use it at all, but to buy two bigger ones I can do that if it makes sense, but I don’t understand how a 4 channel 660 watt decent amp by all reports wouldn’t be sufficient to power four 6.5”s or two 6x9s and two horns. If you’re saying that I’m not pushing enough power to each speaker, then why wouldn’t adding another Micro84u 660 watt 4 channel OR a Micro4v2 600 watt 4 channel amp to power the 6.5”s OR the 6x9s and horns not be the ticket?
Admittedly, I don’t fully understand the nuances of motorcycle audio. I’m happy to be educated, but I’m feeling like I’m just getting “ride by” shots at what I have instead of a clear articulation of what you suggest I do and why. Make me less dumb... I admit I am ignorant, so please make me less so.
Thank you for your help. I can’t wait to get this system dialed in and post a video showing you all what your input helped me to do.
Stellar HDF Member
Joined: Aug 2014
Posts: 2,844
Likes: 574
From: Lockport Illinois
I’ll need more information to understand that. The amp is 660 watts with the SENS only 25% up... isn’t the full power pushed from the amp when the SENS is all the way up? And, isn’t there a point in the SENS that you will always get distortion in the speaker unless the amp is underpowered?
Again, be specific guys. What amps are you suggesting I use, if it were yours? I’ve got the $ to make this “right”. If you are saying to pull the 660 Watt amp and not use it at all, but to buy two bigger ones I can do that if it makes sense, but I don’t understand how a 4 channel 660 watt decent amp by all reports wouldn’t be sufficient to power four 6.5”s or two 6x9s and two horns. If you’re saying that I’m not pushing enough power to each speaker, then why wouldn’t adding another Micro84u 660 watt 4 channel OR a Micro4v2 600 watt 4 channel amp to power the 6.5”s OR the 6x9s and horns not be the ticket?
Admittedly, I don’t fully understand the nuances of motorcycle audio. I’m happy to be educated, but I’m feeling like I’m just getting “ride by” shots at what I have instead of a clear articulation of what you suggest I do and why. Make me less dumb... I admit I am ignorant, so please make me less so.
Thank you for your help. I can’t wait to get this system dialed in and post a video showing you all what your input helped me to do.
Again, be specific guys. What amps are you suggesting I use, if it were yours? I’ve got the $ to make this “right”. If you are saying to pull the 660 Watt amp and not use it at all, but to buy two bigger ones I can do that if it makes sense, but I don’t understand how a 4 channel 660 watt decent amp by all reports wouldn’t be sufficient to power four 6.5”s or two 6x9s and two horns. If you’re saying that I’m not pushing enough power to each speaker, then why wouldn’t adding another Micro84u 660 watt 4 channel OR a Micro4v2 600 watt 4 channel amp to power the 6.5”s OR the 6x9s and horns not be the ticket?
Admittedly, I don’t fully understand the nuances of motorcycle audio. I’m happy to be educated, but I’m feeling like I’m just getting “ride by” shots at what I have instead of a clear articulation of what you suggest I do and why. Make me less dumb... I admit I am ignorant, so please make me less so.
Thank you for your help. I can’t wait to get this system dialed in and post a video showing you all what your input helped me to do.
The reference of the gain **** orientation to a clock is pretty irrelevant but a ballpark figure as some amps will be at 8 o'clock or as high as 1oclock depending on the input voltage going to said amps.
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Outstanding HDF Member
Joined: Jan 2014
Posts: 2,482
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From: Minnesota
Who sold you this system? Was it set up as a package or did you just start buying random parts?
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Thread Starter
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Tourer
Joined: Jun 2012
Posts: 325
Likes: 112
From: Charlotte NC
I ran it all as described for a month or so at the end of the summer. It’s not like it sounds bad or isn’t louder that any of the J&M packages I’ve had before. I’ve just been told that I should have a separate amp for the fronts and rears so I’m soliciting feedback here because I know there are some really good audio guys here. If you guys have suggestions on how to run it I’m open for suggestions and not afraid to invest further if need be to optimize everything.
Road Warrior
Joined: Jun 2017
Posts: 1,832
Likes: 174
From: Indiana
Am I correct in my thinking that the hertz components don't have the passive xovers hooked up? I'm a little slow and sometimes your terminology and mine may differ.
Never mind I reread the post and see that you are using the crossovers.
Never mind I reread the post and see that you are using the crossovers.
Last edited by marshallb; Feb 7, 2020 at 09:58 AM.