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Thanks. I was asking because I just did the baker comp install too. I have the same version you have and I haven't noticed any issues as of yet. My motor is a 95inch with cams and mild headwork
Hey monster, I was hoping you would check in! The Baker comp has been taking some hits over at HTT in particular Steve from GMR(my tuner). He has pulled one off a customer and felt like the motor extension shaft was showing a lack of oiling. Also there has been issues with the spring pack on some very high hp builds. I have the "B" version of the comp and the "C" version is the newest and has an updated motor shaft extension and spring pack....planning on calling Baker tomorrow and see what I should do.
I know one thing, sure don't like the idea of grinding down the oiling tray on the inside of my outer primary cover if the Baker is not going to work.
I purchased the tap recommended by Baker to clean out the internal crank threads, have not used it yet but here is a pic:
I was nervous about sticking a tap in there. Let us know if it pulls any steel out with it. What oil are you going to run in the primary?
I was nervous about sticking a tap in there. Let us know if it pulls any steel out with it. What oil are you going to run in the primary?
When I use my rethreading taps I always try to use the lightest pressure possible, fingers usually - I'll do the same with that tap, but good heads up, thanks.
Spectro Golden Gear Lube SAE 80, had the Bandit folks threw it in with the clutch, not free but no extra shipping. I will probably do like soft 02 and add a couple extra ounces over the Bandit recommendation.
Some guys don't run the low oil level with the Bandit. I believe it is recommended because of the added amount of clutch plate surface area. I think the worry is for parasitic clutch drag. I'm fine with going with 18oz but if one was worried about lubrication one could try a higher level and if its an issue. Drain the excess.
When I ran that bottoming tap I lived it with some oil. No metal came but some of the old locktite did. I then cleaned it with brake clean and an air compressor. Good piece of mind. I'll be honest though I didn't understand bakers explanation of checking the outboard difference between the comp for alignment. Now I get it and here's a tip for anyone else
Tighten the inner primary with the nuts and mentioned washers. Tighten the comp. take a flat edge across the sprocket and measure the distance from the sprocket to the primary. Then do it to the clutch. They should be within the allowable tolerance
When I ran that bottoming tap I lived it with some oil. No metal came but some of the old locktite did. I then cleaned it with brake clean and an air compressor. Good piece of mind. I'll be honest though I didn't understand bakers explanation of checking the outboard difference between the comp for alignment. Now I get it and here's a tip for anyone else
Tighten the inner primary with the nuts and mentioned washers. Tighten the comp. take a flat edge across the sprocket and measure the distance from the sprocket to the primary. Then do it to the clutch. They should be within the allowable tolerance
Good stuff! Yeah I had to read the alignment part of those Instructions a couple of time but I got it, maybe tomorrow....
Did not get a lot done yesterday, some small progress: reinstalled starter and the Baker chain adjuster, cleaned more fastener threads. The tap for cleaning the sprocket shaft that Baker recommened worked fine - cleaned out the blueish thread lock that HD uses on the compensator bolts and did not dig into the metal threads.
Called Baker yesterday too and talked to Jeff about the differences between the "B" and the "C" compensators. He really did not seem to be too up to speed on what the changes were but said he would call me back. I waited awhile and then just decide to PM Mark from Baker who is a big participant here at HD Forum. He replied in minutes and told me that the "C" changes/upgrades were for the high tq motors and my 107" should not be a problem. He did reassure me that if I were to have any problems that they(Baker) would take care of it.
Not sure why they would modify the motor extension shaft for that....maybe because they made the spring pack thicker and need to adjust its length??
Well I worked hard today but did not get as far as I hoped. First time for me using a hydraulic press, so I did some extra pressing just to get a feel of it and to practice for the presses that counted. I will post several pics ahead but have many more if anybody does not see what they want to, just ask.
Anyway started out pretty well. I removed the clutch hub retaining ring that is on the transmission side of the clutch basket. I also noticed that the side of the retaining ring next to clutch bearing was slighty rounded along the edges vs straight edged on the side facing the transmission - the SM makes no mention of this difference but when I installed the retaining clip provided by Bandit I noticed the same thing so put it in like the stock one.
Then I pressed out the stock clutch hub:
Then I removed the retaining ring in the clutch basket which the SM does make note of a rounded side which faces the transmission side. This is a $10 part that I plan on reusing, HD does not tell you to get a new one either:
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