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Got my 16 Lowrider S changing bars here is what's required:
Clutch Cable:
Magnum Shielding Black Pearl Designer Series Standard Length High Efficiency Clutch Cable - 422010HE
Part # 1903449around 80$
Lower Brake Lines:
Magnum Shielding Black Pearl Designer Series ABS Dual Disc Lower Brake Line - AS47006
Part # 1910478 around $199-250
Upper Brake Line:
Magnum Shielding Black Pearl Designer Series 28 in. ABS Front Upper Brake Line for Softails w/7/16 in./90° Banjo - AS47328
Part # 1909673 Around $60
Transmission Cable cover gasket, oil, brake fluid
If you bike is equipped with ABS make sure to get ABS lines!!!
stock wiring is long enough for 12" bars
I have 10" WC Mx T bars on the way, it seems to me I should be able to use your list as a guide, and just subtract 2" from the upper brakeline, and clutch cable.
Anyone see why not?
BTW, those magnum shielding lines are $$! Oh well, I want to do it right.
An alternative that I personally used to go to 12" WCTB Slingshots, which I did in my garage, is to go with Fat Bob ABS brake lines and regular old vinyl clutch. I bled the brakes with the help of a friend and it was just like any other brake bleed job.
I have over 1,000 miles on this set up with no error codes and all completely trouble free miles. I'm all for spending big bucks, but I try to avoid it when possible.
Also, internally wiring bars with TBW is so much easier than the old days of depinning or cut and solder. I unplugged the connector and just pushed the wires through. I didn't even need to run a chase/pull chain.
An alternative that I personally used to go to 12" WCTB Slingshots, which I did in my garage, is to go with Fat Bob ABS brake lines and regular old vinyl clutch. I bled the brakes with the help of a friend and it was just like any other brake bleed job.
I have over 1,000 miles on this set up with no error codes and all completely trouble free miles. I'm all for spending big bucks, but I try to avoid it when possible.
Also, internally wiring bars with TBW is so much easier than the old days of depinning or cut and solder. I unplugged the connector and just pushed the wires through. I didn't even need to run a chase/pull chain.
IN your opinion, if you had gone with the 10" WC T bars, would you have opted for +4? I sure like the price of what your suggesting over the magnum pricing!
IN your opinion, if you had gone with the 10" WC T bars, would you have opted for +4? I sure like the price of what your suggesting over the magnum pricing!
I'll say yes. In fact when I was doing my Slingshots, I took what a guy had used on his 10" Tbars and just added +2. My +6 is perfect on the the brake side but my clutch could probably been a +5 or a tight +4. Not sure if anyone else had that issue.
If I go with 12 inch Bars will I need to extend any wires or does Harley give you enough wires? Any ideas what the maximum height you can go without extending wires? BFMCDyna if I read correctly no unpinning of wires were needed in order to run them through your bars? Thanks for the help.
I have the parts on order for my bar job on my 2016 lowrider. I will post pics when everything is up on the bike.
Not sure on the 16 but my 17 lowrider, you also need to install a top triple tree because of the new adjustable risers they put on. Same as the street bobs
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