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CGGorman's 99 Wide Glide build thread

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Old May 22, 2017 | 01:53 PM
  #621  
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Originally Posted by Frédéric CM
no FKS 212 kit ordered yet ?
Not yet. Another month or so. I need to get the front end mounted up and verify my fork tube length. I also have my work schedule and finances to work around. I wasn't really expecting the cartridges to be available yet so I may pre-assemble and then disassemble the bike so I can get that stuff on order while the rest of the work continues.

I'm also very seriously considering gear drive cams since I'll have the cam chest, rocker boxes, and pushrod tubes apart anyway.

Also a lithium battery and ceramic metal matrix rotors.

Damn, the budget for this salvage repair has gotten out of control!
 

Last edited by cggorman; Sep 8, 2017 at 01:43 AM.
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Old May 22, 2017 | 03:36 PM
  #622  
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put a AN Big Rotor kit
 
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Old May 22, 2017 | 03:39 PM
  #623  
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Originally Posted by Frédéric CM
put a AN Big Rotor kit
Would, but I'm pretty sure they won't fit inside my 4.5 x 17 rims. I'm mostly looking for the weight savings from the CMM rotors. I should have...um...adequate stopping power for my 610 pound bike.
 
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Old May 22, 2017 | 07:21 PM
  #624  
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First fitup of the complete front end.

The bars and mirrors clear the tank easily but the pinch bolts hit. This seems probable with all big tank conversions of this type. Otherwise the conversion is drop-in. Didn't even even need to modify or remove the steering lock. It no longer functions, but it doesn't impede either.

With regard to the pinch bolt interference... Not sure if I'll move the tank back half an inch (which does clear) or modify the steering stops. I wanted to do a tank lift, too. Need to do some mockup and see what works.

I'm not ready to put weight on it yet, but it seems very short in the front already. Longer tubes seem a given at this point.

I didn't stop to get pics but before I installed the new races and bearings in the neck/stem I spent an hour or so cleaning everything, hitting all the rust with rust converter and Scotchbrite, then applying a thin coat of grease to prevent future corrosion. It cleaned up nicely. Wish I would have taken some pics. Oh well.





 

Last edited by cggorman; Jan 26, 2020 at 05:39 PM.
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Old May 22, 2017 | 07:29 PM
  #625  
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are the arp heads what hitting? i know you wouldn't dream of it but, would the issue be there if they recessed hex type? tank lift?
 
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Old May 22, 2017 | 07:31 PM
  #626  
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Originally Posted by cggorman
Would, but I'm pretty sure they won't fit inside my 4.5 x 17 rims. I'm mostly looking for the weight savings from the CMM rotors. I should have...um...adequate stopping power for my 610 pound bike.
i have 4 AN big brake rotors sitting around ya know
 
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Old May 22, 2017 | 07:35 PM
  #627  
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It's looking bad azz! I love those bars you got on it.
 
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Old May 22, 2017 | 07:36 PM
  #628  
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Originally Posted by cvaria
are the arp heads what hitting? i know you wouldn't dream of it but, would the issue be there if they recessed hex type? tank lift?
I checked that. The OE button heads hit too. No biggie for me, but I figured it was worth mentioning for others. A lift makes it even worse. It hits well above where the tank curve stops.

Originally Posted by cvaria
i have 4 AN big brake rotors sitting around ya know
I appreciate that, but I'm after the weight savings (front and rear).
 

Last edited by cggorman; May 22, 2017 at 07:38 PM.
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Old May 22, 2017 | 08:07 PM
  #629  
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Originally Posted by W.Glide
It's looking bad azz! I love those bars you got on it.
Thank you
 
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Old May 22, 2017 | 09:12 PM
  #630  
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After talking to my crew, we think you should axe the tank, leave the forks alone and run inch shorter shocks.

 
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