Fxdb top cylinder head removal
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Novice
Joined: Jan 2016
Posts: 21
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From: Hampton Roads, VA
Fxdb top cylinder head removal
im not an engine guy so please bear with me. Im trying to remove my front top cylinder head so I can drill out and replace the exhaust port stud.
I do have a service manual. But it goes into more depth removal than prob what I need. I have removed the gas tank and air induction unit and top rocker box cover. My wuestion is it says the engine should be top dead center before proceeding to take pressure off the valves and pushrods? Etc.
but I am trying to accomplish this by turning the rear wheel. -an nothing inside is moving up and down. No valves etc.
am I missing a step in there? I dont want to mess anything up which Is why I havent gone further.
Thanks!
I do have a service manual. But it goes into more depth removal than prob what I need. I have removed the gas tank and air induction unit and top rocker box cover. My wuestion is it says the engine should be top dead center before proceeding to take pressure off the valves and pushrods? Etc.
but I am trying to accomplish this by turning the rear wheel. -an nothing inside is moving up and down. No valves etc.
am I missing a step in there? I dont want to mess anything up which Is why I havent gone further.
Thanks!
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Road Warrior
Joined: Jun 2012
Posts: 1,832
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From: Phoenix
Do you mean there's a lot of resistance when you're rotating the wheel? If so, that's normal. It's easiest in top gear with the spark plugs removed, but it can still be strenuous. If you mean the wheel's spinning but the engine isn't, then you're in neutral.
Make sure, before you break loose the rocker plate bolts, that that cylinder is in top dead center compression. If it's on top dead center overlap, there's still pressure on the valvetrain. The tappets (lifters) also need to have bled down. If you can spin the pushrods by grabbing them with your thumb and index finger (and a paper towel, given how oily they probably are), you're in good shape.
Make sure, before you break loose the rocker plate bolts, that that cylinder is in top dead center compression. If it's on top dead center overlap, there's still pressure on the valvetrain. The tappets (lifters) also need to have bled down. If you can spin the pushrods by grabbing them with your thumb and index finger (and a paper towel, given how oily they probably are), you're in good shape.
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Thread Starter
|
Novice
Joined: Jan 2016
Posts: 21
Likes: 1
From: Hampton Roads, VA
Do you mean there's a lot of resistance when you're rotating the wheel? If so, that's normal. It's easiest in top gear with the spark plugs removed, but it can still be strenuous. If you mean the wheel's spinning but the engine isn't, then you're in neutral.
Make sure, before you break loose the rocker plate bolts, that that cylinder is in top dead center compression. If it's on top dead center overlap, there's still pressure on the valvetrain. The tappets (lifters) also need to have bled down. If you can spin the pushrods by grabbing them with your thumb and index finger (and a paper towel, given how oily they probably are), you're in good shape.
Make sure, before you break loose the rocker plate bolts, that that cylinder is in top dead center compression. If it's on top dead center overlap, there's still pressure on the valvetrain. The tappets (lifters) also need to have bled down. If you can spin the pushrods by grabbing them with your thumb and index finger (and a paper towel, given how oily they probably are), you're in good shape.
How dumb am I? It was alot of resistance. Smh. I was like man seriously. Thanks guys.
Road Warrior
Joined: Jun 2012
Posts: 1,832
Likes: 67
From: Phoenix
Heh, no worries, man. When you're doing something new on a bike and you feel that much pressure, it's real easy to worry you're gonna break something. But as long as the engine's assembled correctly, turning it over by hand won't hurt anything, it'll just tire you out.
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