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I've never dropped my oil pan in the few times I've been in the cam chest. Then again I'm still on the stock plate and pump. With the current swap out of pistons and cylinders I just plan to do multiple oil changes...
Question for some of you who have recently completed similar projects (cvaria, reindeer, robbyville...): Did you drop the oil pan and clean it out? S&S recommends doing so whenever the cam plate/oil pump is new. I'm not anxious to do so, but don't want to be boneheaded by omitting something important...
I didn't. In fact, this is the first time I've ever even seen it mentioned.
Thanks for the input, everyone. Here's what it says in the S&S cam plate instructions:
And in the oil pump instructions:
I just wasn't sure whether this was in the category of "we'll suggest you do this even though it isn't usually necessary so you don't blame us if something goes wrong" or if it was more like "if you don't do this, you're an idiot and your new parts will become damaged, destroying your motor."
My impression is that frequent oil changes during break-in should suffice.
Thanks for the input, everyone. Here's what it says in the S&S cam plate instructions:
And in the oil pump instructions:
I just wasn't sure whether this was in the category of "we'll suggest you do this even though it isn't usually necessary so you don't blame us if something goes wrong" or if it was more like "if you don't do this, you're an idiot and your new parts will become damaged, destroying your motor."
My impression is that frequent oil changes during break-in should suffice.
My Vote...
"we'll suggest you do this even though it isn't usuallynecessary so you don't blame us if something goes wrong"
I think somewhere there's also instructions to disconnect your Negative Battery Cable whenever you remove your Rear Wheel
It's definitely worth while to clean these if the motor blew up and started spreading swarf through the oil system but on a simply worn out motor or one getting a upgrade, is it really necessary?
Heck, I just completed a top end on an 07 EGC at 80K and didn't change oil until 500 miles after the rebuild.. It had M1 synthetic in it with about 2000 miles on it when the topend was done. Got fresh M1 then..
Quick question for you that may seem totally weird but... When you rotated the wheel to watch the pistons go up and down, where did that red oil come from? I used a light coat of Marvel's Mystery Oil on my cylinders and I put a little oil on the rings and such prior to putting the cylinders on but that's about it. I haven't rotated the engine yet.
Well, I didn't quite finish today, but I really think I will on Sunday... I installed the Rockout pieces in the rocker supports, which went pretty smoothly. But it is super nice that they give you five inserts instead of four... I needed the extra! The first one mushroomed as I pressed it in... Thanks, Rockout!!!
I got the lower rockers installed, as well as the lifters, lifter blocks, and pushrod tubes. I know it wasn't much, but as usual I ended up with tons of other stuff I had to get done today. I hate that!
I feel pretty good about my powder coating choices... I like the comination of the super glossy black lifter blocks with the metalflake pushrod tubes... The same combination will exist at the top between the upper and lower rocker boxes. I keep thinking of tons of other things to have coated... I think stuff may come apart again over the winter!
Okay, stupid question: I'm still a little bit confused about the lifters... I completely understand the pushrod adjustment procedure, except for one thing... The lifters are installed, but there isn't yet any tension on the pushrods. It will probably stay like this until Sunday. Will the lifters bleed down just sitting there, thus making the adjustment procedure inaccurate, or do they only bleed down when there is tension on the pushrods?
The last time I did this was a long time ago, and with solid lifters... I'm sure this is obvious and I'm just thinking about it all wrong...
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