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Extending speedo wiring

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Old Sep 12, 2017 | 12:47 PM
  #1  
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Default Extending speedo wiring

Hi all,

I'm new to the forum as of today.
This seems to be the place to get answers to some of my questions that keeps bugging me.

I have a 2001 HD FXD Superglide (european model since I'm sitting in Sweden) that I'm planning on changing the handlebars on this winter.

Today I have a Wild1 Flatline 12" with a LA chopper t-bar gauge mount sitting close to the trees.
My plan is to change these bars to a XLCH-style bars with 6,5" risers.

The handlebar control wires are long enough but the wires for the speedo are too short.
I guess that the dummy lights are simple enough to cut and extend by soldering an extra piece of wire to the "harness".

But how do I (if possible) extend the actual speedo wires? The ones going from the bucket down to the speedo sensor? Is that also just a cut and solder procedure or do I need to get a whole new extended wire(s) for that?

I'm thankfull for any suggestions or expertise telling me how to mode forward.
 
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Old Sep 12, 2017 | 12:54 PM
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I had a shop do mine. But, a few folks just spliced their wires. There are kits available to. There is a diagram of the wires in the back of the service manual. I'm sure some one will post it for you. I would but, i'm powerless at the moment.
 
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Old Sep 12, 2017 | 01:06 PM
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I would just splice em if it were mine. Cost you a few bucks tops for solder and shrink tube. One thing I would suggest is using high quality shrink tube. The kind I get from work has a heat adhesive in it so when you shrink it a very small amount of adhesive comes out the ends. I use this stuff because then I know there's no way moisture is gettin in there.

You'll also want to stagger your splices that way you don't have all of em in one spot creating a bulge in the harness.
 
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Old Sep 12, 2017 | 01:14 PM
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Default Entended Wiring

I would think it is a cut and solder situation. I did my ignition switch years ago, on my fuel injected bike with no problems. If it were a canbus wiring platform, all computer controlled, there might be a problem but a 2001 should be easy peezy. Just make sure to use solder joints or solder sleeves so that the connections don't pull loose and are waterproof. Don't forget to use heat shrink to further insulate the joint from water.
If you can use the same color wires, like the ones you are extending, it may help you or someone else in the future. If not, make notes in the owners manual to help the next owner or yourself.
Good Luck
 
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Old Sep 12, 2017 | 01:28 PM
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Originally Posted by dyna rider
I would think it is a cut and solder situation. I did my ignition switch years ago, on my fuel injected bike with no problems. If it were a canbus wiring platform, all computer controlled, there might be a problem but a 2001 should be easy peezy. Just make sure to use solder joints or solder sleeves so that the connections don't pull loose and are waterproof. Don't forget to use heat shrink to further insulate the joint from water.
If you can use the same color wires, like the ones you are extending, it may help you or someone else in the future. If not, make notes in the owners manual to help the next owner or yourself.
Good Luck
mad a Chrysler tech, I have to solder can bus circuits every other day, as long as you don't change the resistance of the wire/circuit, you'll be ok. Since solder is such a good conductor, it shouldn't increase the resistance at all. Typically anything over 5 ohms is considered over spec by Chrysler diagnostics, but in reality 5 ohms would be more than enough to affect a circuit and drop voltage. If you test the resistance of one end of a wire to the other end, it's almost always 0.0 ohms. On rare occasions it may be 0.1 or 0.2 but that's not enough to affect a load. Sorry I kind of rambled on there. Point is, you will be fine.
 
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Old Sep 12, 2017 | 01:41 PM
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Originally Posted by Nickd2689
....The kind I get from work has a heat adhesive in it so when you shrink it a very small amount of adhesive comes out the ends. I use this stuff because then I know there's no way moisture is gettin in there.
Make sure you also spray the joint with an electronic cleaner.. get the residual flux out of there... that in and of itself can start corrosion.

But yes, the adhesive lined shrink is what you want to use.

One more bit of advise when soldering your own stuff.. . don't just jam the splayed ends of the cut wires together and solder. You actually want to make a decent mechanical & electrical connection. So mechanically implement a "J-hook" type connection and twist the little bit of wire back over itself (both sides) , solder, clean, heatshrink. viola... a very long lasting connection.
 
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Old Sep 12, 2017 | 03:22 PM
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Thanks for the quick replies!

Seems that cut and solder is the way to go even for the speedo cable.

Finally, would you recommend using the same gauge wire for the dummy lights and the speedo cable? Or should one of them be a thicker wire?
 
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Old Sep 12, 2017 | 06:22 PM
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Default Wire Size

Use the same size as your stock wiring.
 
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Old Sep 13, 2017 | 02:55 PM
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Originally Posted by HoldIt
Thanks for the quick replies!

Seems that cut and solder is the way to go even for the speedo cable.

Finally, would you recommend using the same gauge wire for the dummy lights and the speedo cable? Or should one of them be a thicker wire?
Definitely the same gauge wire.

But one thing I would recommend to make the whole thing simple is to use solder filled butt connectors.

These are made from heat shrink sleeving with a solder ring in the middle, and adhesive at each side. Just cut your wires, expose the cores then slip both ends into the connector so the wire cores interlace then hit it with a heat gun. They solder, seal and shrink in one go. Super easy.

Like these: https://www.autoelectricsupplies.co....926/category/9
 
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Old Oct 28, 2019 | 02:26 AM
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Does anyone have the part numbers for a black speedo back cover?.......oops wrong thread srry.
 

Last edited by mgardner4623; Oct 28, 2019 at 02:27 AM.
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