06 Dyna bogging down when cracking throttle
Tourer
Joined: May 2018
Posts: 381
Likes: 122
From: Halifax, Nova Scotia
My initial reaction was the same as the first reply: insufficient fuel caused by... something. Fuel filter was my first thought. It seems to be one of those jobs that gets overlooked because it's easy to ignore. You're nowhere near the service interval in terms of milage, but it's still a 15 year-old machine. My advice would be to look at the service manual and do the fuel filter service, and refresh anything you can while you're in there. Mine had a sock on the fuel intake that was looking worn and a bit worse for wear. I changed everything out except for one of the fuel lines that wasn't available. There's also a clamp in there that can come loose and cause pressure problems.
I think the relevant part of the issue here is that it falls on its face only when you put a high demand on it, which sounds to me like a fuel supply (or pressure) issue. The high flow intake and exhaust are both exacerbating this situation. A tuner would be able to supply more fuel to keep up with demand. As it is now, you're starting with the factory's very lean fuel mix, and making it even worse with the intake and exhaust. A good tuner would be able to correct this situation, and allow sufficient fueling for the demand (ie you cranking on it). I would recommend calling Fuel Moto on the phone and talking to them about a setup that would work for you. I am very happy with my service from them, and Power Vision (with the O2 sensor thingies) that I got from them last year.
I think the relevant part of the issue here is that it falls on its face only when you put a high demand on it, which sounds to me like a fuel supply (or pressure) issue. The high flow intake and exhaust are both exacerbating this situation. A tuner would be able to supply more fuel to keep up with demand. As it is now, you're starting with the factory's very lean fuel mix, and making it even worse with the intake and exhaust. A good tuner would be able to correct this situation, and allow sufficient fueling for the demand (ie you cranking on it). I would recommend calling Fuel Moto on the phone and talking to them about a setup that would work for you. I am very happy with my service from them, and Power Vision (with the O2 sensor thingies) that I got from them last year.
Last edited by gleam; May 15, 2020 at 02:12 AM.
Thread Starter
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6th Gear
Joined: May 2020
Posts: 14
Likes: 1
From: Los Angeles
My initial reaction was the same as the first reply: insufficient fuel caused by... something. Fuel filter was my first thought. It seems to be one of those jobs that gets overlooked because it's easy to ignore. You're nowhere near the service interval in terms of milage, but it's still a 15 year-old machine. My advice would be to look at the service manual and do the fuel filter service, and refresh anything you can while you're in there. Mine had a sock on the fuel intake that was looking worn and a bit worse for wear. I changed everything out except for one of the fuel lines that wasn't available. There's also a clamp in there that can come loose and cause pressure problems.
I think the relevant part of the issue here is that it falls on its face only when you put a high demand on it, which sounds to me like a fuel supply (or pressure) issue. The high flow intake and exhaust are both exacerbating this situation. A tuner would be able to supply more fuel to keep up with demand. As it is now, you're starting with the factory's very lean fuel mix, and making it even worse with the intake and exhaust. A good tuner would be able to correct this situation, and allow sufficient fueling for the demand (ie you cranking on it). I would recommend calling Fuel Moto on the phone and talking to them about a setup that would work for you. I am very happy with my service from them, and Power Vision (with the O2 sensor thingies) that I got from them last year.
I think the relevant part of the issue here is that it falls on its face only when you put a high demand on it, which sounds to me like a fuel supply (or pressure) issue. The high flow intake and exhaust are both exacerbating this situation. A tuner would be able to supply more fuel to keep up with demand. As it is now, you're starting with the factory's very lean fuel mix, and making it even worse with the intake and exhaust. A good tuner would be able to correct this situation, and allow sufficient fueling for the demand (ie you cranking on it). I would recommend calling Fuel Moto on the phone and talking to them about a setup that would work for you. I am very happy with my service from them, and Power Vision (with the O2 sensor thingies) that I got from them last year.
Tourer
Joined: May 2018
Posts: 381
Likes: 122
From: Halifax, Nova Scotia
You've probably already found this, but for the sake of the thread, codes P1353 and P1356 are "no combustion detected" for front and rear cylinders, respectively. Possible causes listed have been covered by everyone already: ignition coil malfunction, ECM malfunction, fuel system problems, open or short to voltage in signal circuit, spark plug wire connections faulty.
I wonder if the check engine light is indicating that a code is being generated, or it's something else. I wonder if your battery is still healthy enough to deliver a strong enough current to jump the gap under high load. Batteries can be healthy enough to get it running but barely, and then fail to deliver under high load. Unlikely but it would make sense given everything you've said already.
These threads seem relevant: https://www.hdforums.com/forum/touri...ggestions.html and https://www.hdforums.com/forum/dyna-...353-p1356.html
I wonder if the check engine light is indicating that a code is being generated, or it's something else. I wonder if your battery is still healthy enough to deliver a strong enough current to jump the gap under high load. Batteries can be healthy enough to get it running but barely, and then fail to deliver under high load. Unlikely but it would make sense given everything you've said already.
These threads seem relevant: https://www.hdforums.com/forum/touri...ggestions.html and https://www.hdforums.com/forum/dyna-...353-p1356.html
Thread Starter
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6th Gear
Joined: May 2020
Posts: 14
Likes: 1
From: Los Angeles
You've probably already found this, but for the sake of the thread, codes P1353 and P1356 are "no combustion detected" for front and rear cylinders, respectively. Possible causes listed have been covered by everyone already: ignition coil malfunction, ECM malfunction, fuel system problems, open or short to voltage in signal circuit, spark plug wire connections faulty.
I wonder if the check engine light is indicating that a code is being generated, or it's something else. I wonder if your battery is still healthy enough to deliver a strong enough current to jump the gap under high load. Batteries can be healthy enough to get it running but barely, and then fail to deliver under high load. Unlikely but it would make sense given everything you've said already.
These threads seem relevant: https://www.hdforums.com/forum/touri...ggestions.html and https://www.hdforums.com/forum/dyna-...353-p1356.html
I wonder if the check engine light is indicating that a code is being generated, or it's something else. I wonder if your battery is still healthy enough to deliver a strong enough current to jump the gap under high load. Batteries can be healthy enough to get it running but barely, and then fail to deliver under high load. Unlikely but it would make sense given everything you've said already.
These threads seem relevant: https://www.hdforums.com/forum/touri...ggestions.html and https://www.hdforums.com/forum/dyna-...353-p1356.html
Tourer
Joined: May 2018
Posts: 381
Likes: 122
From: Halifax, Nova Scotia
Was the battery load tested as well? A battery can show full charge when tested for voltage but still be insufficient to deliver enough current at high load, which applies to your situation I think. It's something that often gets overlooked, especially when it's getting older and still basically works most of the time. A weak battery is also consistent with what you said about changing the air filter making no difference one way or the other. I would think that if it was insufficient fueling, that adding more air would make it even worse, but you said there was no change.
That's all I can think of for now. I can relate to how aggravating a tuning problem can be in that exact range. Like when you're cruising at a steady RPM and want to roll on a bit more speed and it... just doesn't happen? Massive killjoy.
That's all I can think of for now. I can relate to how aggravating a tuning problem can be in that exact range. Like when you're cruising at a steady RPM and want to roll on a bit more speed and it... just doesn't happen? Massive killjoy.
Grand HDF Member
Joined: Jun 2013
Posts: 4,998
Likes: 870
From: Iowa
Your getting missed detonation error codes because there is not enough fuel in the combustion chamber. The fuel is not igniting causing missed detonations. Do something to increase your fuel flow. Higher flow injectors, tuner, programmable ECM.
Stellar HDF Member
Joined: Mar 2006
Posts: 3,124
Likes: 255
From: From Long Island, now in So. Cal
How much fuel pressure did you get?
Two possibilities below, click on the blue arrow's for more info:
Two possibilities below, click on the blue arrow's for more info:
Injector wires are known for being installed in the factory with no service loop. So sometimes the wires are pulled when the rubber mounted engine is rocking. The wire insulation stretches but the wires don't and break, so you could have a bad wire but it won't be visible.
Anybody replace there in tank fuel line instead of replacing the whole assembly? I have three locations that have contacted the inside of the tank and have worn down the outside of the tubing, and one has a pin hole.
I think the fix would be to use Gates SAE 30R10 Submersible Fuel Line, using a shorter length so that it doesn't hit the tank walls, and/or putting tie wraps on those contact points. Harley only sells the one line from the tank quick disconnect to the regulator/filter, the other line requires you to buy the fuel pump.
I think the fix would be to use Gates SAE 30R10 Submersible Fuel Line, using a shorter length so that it doesn't hit the tank walls, and/or putting tie wraps on those contact points. Harley only sells the one line from the tank quick disconnect to the regulator/filter, the other line requires you to buy the fuel pump.
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6th Gear
Joined: May 2020
Posts: 14
Likes: 1
From: Los Angeles
Still running rough. I've ruled out anything mechanically. I'm thinking an ecu issue. Gonna take it to HD so they can figure it out.
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Ryan05wg
Ignition/Tuner/ECM/Fuel Injection
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Sep 13, 2017 10:10 AM